Still working on this decision....

Rebarrel or trade the M700ss for a .375??

I am considering the SS Ruger No 1 in .375 due to
the shorter overall length of the single shot or a
CZ--which I would shorten the barrel of.

How much additional gunsmith work is required for these
two options?
Ruger - trigger, recoil pad, forend?
CZ- trigger, bedding, crossbolts(american stock)?

Regards.

North GA,
Why do you think the CZ will need trigger work?
A set of metric ignition wrenches and you can make the trigger as light and crisp as you want. It has to be the easiest trigger to work on yourself. Chances are it will be ready to go right out of the box.
Th ruger trigger may need a gunsmith's touch.

I love my CZ 375 H&H.

I can sympathize with your plight , Airedales .

There just isn't a moderately priced .375 out there of a weight suitable for North American use . Most of the factory .375 s weigh about like a 1/2 ton pickup truck .

I've long thought a .375 on a garden variety styled sporter would sell rather well .

The stainless M-70 may come the closest to fitting your needs , but the retail price has got completely out of hand for what you get ........

The top is a Bollinger pre-64 model 70 custom and the bottom is a Johannsen. Both are .375. The Bollinger is a deal at less than $7K. The other is $10.5K.

The only "riflesmithing" I had to do to my Ruger 1H in .375 H&H was to mount a scope on it with the rings that came with it....

I've had two lightweight 375s, a browning stainless stalker and a Sako Mannlicher carbine. The Browning was really ugly, but functioned well enough. Accuracy was ok, but at 7 lbs, the damm thing kicked like a mule. The Sako at eight pounds would get your attention, but was much more pleasant to shoot. That little carbine with 18&1/2" barrel and Leupold 1&1/2x5x would shoot bugholes with any good bullet. I've seen several of the Sako 375 carbines on the auction sites. Stoney

George:

That is one fine looking stock on your rifle.