Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
Moderator |
| |||
|
one of us |
I don't know your situation, but unless you can do all the machining on the 1917 Enfield yourself ( by the way they were not all created equal), you do realize that it will cost much more in the end than if you bought a box stock CZ550 416 Rigby and had it rebarreld to 500 A2? I recently built a 470 MBOGO ( which is essentially a .475 caliber beltless version of the 500 a2) myself on a 1917 win action and it took a frightfull amount of work. Any self respecting gunsmith would charge up from $1000 for the action work and bottom metal required. I also built a 500A2 on a CZ550 and it was a snap using a Pac-Nor barrel. George Vias at HighTech Gunworks makes an excellent brake and I reccomend it highly, assuming you want a removable brake. Good luck and if you want any tips feel free to E-mail me.-Rob | |||
|
<STARTING BIG BORE> |
Thank you guys for the info. I have built rifles for a long time, but not somthing this big . I have removed the ears on the enfield, reshape it and drilled it to fit a Rem. Mod 70 long mount. I also have a Bauska barrel 28" long,hope this is long enough. The rifle will be a single shot, so I won't have feeding problems. If you can think of any thing to make things easier let me know. (1917 Winchester) | ||
one of us |
If you have access to a lathe, and a vertical milling machine with a dividing head, make your own brake. Look at the photos on my web site (address below) and you will see a brake being drilled in the vertical mill. Everybody has a secret design for brakes, but I have found this: The more surface area you have in the holes, the less recoil. I also "back bore" the brakes, this creats an expansion chamber, making the brake work better, plus it is lighter. | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia