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one of us |
Cz does it in 9.3x62. This is the first I ever saw. Good shooting! H ------------------ | |||
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One of Us |
You need a recoil lug on the barrel BEFORE your stock splits. Afterwards it doesn't do any good. Usually they are installed on .458 Lott and up. CZ installs them on smaller calibers, probably because they have to cut corners on the wood and fitting. | |||
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one of us |
I use them at 458 Win and up, along with cross bolts. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Additionally, I don't care how well bedded a 505 is it will tear that stock to shreads given a little time if only conventionally bedded...I would be very suspect of a gunsmith who spouted good bedding prevents that and many do.... What they have no clue about is the 505 will pound a gap in wood or glass and when it gets done doing that it has a running start at he wood and pop goes the weasel.... A 505 MUST have: cross-bolts two, better 3; a second recoil lug on the barrel; a properly cured, dry laid out stock with grain structure running from toe to forend; glass in the recoil lug, tang, and preferable 2" of barrel channal, and behind barrel recoil lug, David Miller glasses the magazine box and thats probably a good idea but I have never done that. some use pillers but that may weaken the wood further, not sure as there are two schools of thought on that, Anything else you do to shore up the dam is a pretty good idea.. I have seen Gibbs stocks that sheared at the grip because of improper layout and I once had a scope shear the 6-48's and plant the Ocular lens deeply in my noggin..So use 8-40 for bases...I had another jump the QD mounts off the bases and it too took a chunk out of my noggin... As you can see were talking powererfull recoil...Every time I hear one of these Yahoos tell me his 505's recoil doesn't bother him I get a case of the slobbers. I don't know wheather he is just a cyberspace BS'er, a masokist or meaner than a junk yard dog eat'n gun powder mixed in raw hamburger. I think most just can't face the fact they just dumped a lot of cash into something they cannot shoot....that was my approach when I had them, but I hid my face and sold them and finally admitted they kicked me too much, I know, I'm a wuss.. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Well said Ray! | |||
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<500 AHR> |
Ray, I agree with regard to the bedding requirements of a 505 class of weapon. However, I beg to differ with regard to handling of recoil. I realize that my 500 kicks very hard, but I am accustom to it and can shoot the rifle well. That said I cannot shoot it nearly as fast as I can a 416 Rigby. The recovery time is a bit longer. Now for all those wannabes. I have a light weight 300 Win Mag that I cannot even feel kick. Since most people I know wouldn't want to shoot my 300 I can only imagine what their reaction to firing the 500 would be. So Ray, I am not a masocist and I can shoot the rifle, so I guess I would possibly make a welcome addition to the freak show at the circus. I suspect though that you are right with regard to many of these guys. I would add one note to Ray's excellent dissertation. Forget the beautifully figured stock wood. You want plain straight grain wood that allows for perfect grain flow. Anything less than this and you will be buying many replacement stocks. 50+ caliber rifles with fancy fancy stocks are an instant indication that the rifle was built by someone that did not understand how to properly stock such a cannon. These are rifles to avoid. Todd E [This message has been edited by Todd E (edited 03-02-2002).] | ||
one of us |
quote: My old Brno .22Hornet has a recoil lug on the barrel... Fritz | |||
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one of us |
My Brno .450 Rigby has one on the barrel but I really depend more on the steel-glass bedding than on the lug to prevent splitting. Admittedly I lack Ray's vast experience in this matter but I suspect that the big Rigby, whose muzzle energy is very close to that of the factory loads for the .505, would perform just as well without the barrel lug. However, being a cautious sort, if I took off the barrel lug, I'd cross-bolt the stock VERY tightly. Currently, I'm concentrating more on the .404 than on the .450 and suspect that unless I get a serious deal on an elephant, the Rigby will go into retirement. Still, I'm not ready to part with it just yet. Sarge | |||
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one of us |
When I had my new CZ 550 (375 H&H) bedded the 'smith recommended to lose the barrel recoil lug to improve accuracy. Hopefully the careful bedding will take care of the stock. [This message has been edited by Wachtel (edited 03-03-2002).] | |||
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<500 AHR> |
Oldsarge, Unless you like to buy new stocks regularly keep the barrel mounted lug on that 450 Rigby! I assure you that it is needed. Without it if you are pushing those 500 grains pills out the muzzle around 2400 fps I doubt you will get through on entire box of ammo. Cross bolting helps to prevent splitting of the web between the magazine mortise and the trigger mortise, as well as, reinforces the wood directly behind the action recoil lug. Cross bolting will not keep the tang from wedging the stock! Part of the proper bedding of a big gun is to ensure that there is at least 0.03" clearance between the tang and the stock. Anything less and the stock will almost certainly split! I do not wish to sound confrontational, but I have bought too many replacement stocks over the years to wish that on anyone else. There are DAMNED few stockmakers that know how to proper stock a true big bore rifle. The reason. While there are lots of 300 & 338's around there aren't many 458+'s. So the experience back ground isn't there. Your bedding and layout must be truly prefect on a real BIG bore if the stock is to survive. Wachtel, Todd E | ||
one of us |
If it's not snowing to much tomorrow I'll try to get out to the range and check it out! | |||
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one of us |
Thanx for the tip, Todd. I eventually want to get the big one restocked because I think it has too much drop and the stock isn't as long as I'd like. I WAS going to do it myself, but it sounds like I'd better look for an expert . . . and they don't come cheap. BTW, I keep the velocity down around 2300. I think 6000 ft lbs is enough for anything this side of the Cretaceous. Sarge | |||
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Moderator |
IMHO 40 cal on up, better safe then sorry, ounce of prevention... | |||
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one of us |
I install a barrel lug on anything from 375 H&H on up! The barrel recoil lug has to be bedded properly though. The glass should only make contact from BEHIND the lug, with the sides,front, and UNDER the lug free floating, and should never be more than 4" out the barrel from the reciever ring . Ray has it right, for every one shooter who can really shoot a very heavily recoiling rifle, there are ten who can't. I'm not particularly bothered by recoil till I get to a 577 NE 3" double rifle. Actually I'm more bothered by the recoil from some of so-called deer rifles with poorly shaped stocks, than a properly stocked big bore. I have absolutely no desire, however, to shoot anything larger than the 577NE, regardless if it has a recoil lug on the barrel or not! ------------------ | |||
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