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In reading the recent posts about how "easy" it is to make a 458Lott from a CZ 458Win (as stated in Rifle magazine) it brought to mind a post where robgunbuilder stated that "hand reaming" was bad (or less desirable) because it causes asymetric chambers. I agree that "hand reaming" is not as good as using a lathe but I also assume that some people must use the T handle to rechamber. In the article in Rifle the author states that you can accomplish a rechambering in 10 minutes without removing the barrel and action from the stock so he must not be using a lathe. So who has actually done this and has the minor lack of symmetry caused any problems in function/safety/brass life/ etc ? thanks, Scott | ||
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I have done it and it can be done, I sure don't prefer it....mostly it is good for such jobs as improving a 22 hornet where not a lot of cutting is done....I believe I can do it on a 458 to a Lott.....but don't intend to. | |||
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I have done it on a short chambered (by .020") barrel; removing that little, I doubt you're going to get it too terribly eccentric. On the 458 to Lott conversion, reaming .30" deep, you might run into more of a problem -- then again, how accurate does a DGR rifle of the 'stopper' category have to be? Realistically, 3" at 50 yards is probably more accuracy than you need... It doesn't take too many turns of the handle to finish out a short chamber -- if you do this, check with the go gauge frequently, and make sure you don't have any 'chips' in the lug recesses to make you underestimate headspace. If I recall correctly, it took about 60 turns to finish my chamber. And don't scrimp on the T-handle rental -- it would be damn hard without it. Dark pipe threading oil (Rigid, Harvey's are two brands) will work fine for finish reaming, you don't need that water soluble crap that only comes in 50 gallon barrels. Any questions, let me know, and I'll be happy to share my limited experience with you. Todd | |||
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I have a confession to make. The "DaggaRifle" was hand reamed with a T-piece by a gunsmith in my neck of the woods, as an expedient to a quick and easy cheap gun. 10 minute job. Excellent results judging by the chamber effects on brass and accuracy results on paper. A good hand can do a good job of it. It is not a bench rest rifle. It is a cheap rifle that is very reliable and functional. I would not hesitate to let the same guy do the same thing again if I wanted two DaggaRifles for the matching pair, and I just might. Hey, how else do you think rednecks like me can own over 50 rifles? And that is all I am admitting to. But don't tell the POSeur, that there is more than that in my collection. It would torment him so. Surely it is better to remove the barrel and rechamber to the utmost of precision and concentricity, but with 458 WinMag to 458 Lott, there is so little rechambering going on here that you will get good results most of the time. Does anyone know of anyone who screwed up this little job? I believe the illustrious elephant hunter, Will, has rechambered a CZ to 458 Lott himself, with good results. *** RAB | |||
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Re-read your post -- I would definitely take the time to remove the action from the stock, as it's pretty hard to contain the cutting oil, and I don't imagine it's good for the wood. Todd | |||
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The chamber can be done by hand without a lathe, but I consider it a job for an old hand at such operations! Many good barrels have been ruined to the point of haveing to be trashed, or chambered to something bigger to clean the chamber, if it can't be set back enough without looseing too much shank! The Afore mentioned 22 K-hornet, and the 458 Lott are two of the easist! | |||
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I had an an "old hand" install and finish ream a Mauser in 7X57 for me. Said he could do it, no problem (and this guy has been around for a while). Got it back gouged and out of round. Barrel was trash. He told me the barrel was defective and to take it up with the mfg. He screwed himself out of ALL my business. | |||
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To me this short cut is not worth the risk. I prefer to take the time & do it the right way. Thats just me. What are you saving? 30 minutes? | |||
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Bear Claw, Of course you are right. I am no gunsmith, but have had dealings with about a dozen of them from Florida to Alaska, along the route of my residences, in the last 20 years. Most would not do this thing. Some are good enough to pull it off. *** RAB | |||
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Yes, some are good enough to pull it off. The barrel, that is, they are good enough to get the barrel off. *** RAB | |||
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Jeez- It takes about 10 minutes work to pull off a barrel, chuck it in a Lathe, zero it and Ream it properly. If its a belted magnum like a 458 win to a 458 Lott/ackley conversion ,you have to ensure you don't deepen the belt recess in the chamber in the process ( perhaps wrecking the headspace) and the only way to ensure that is to use a darn good indicator or DYECHEM and your eyes. That's darn hard to do with the barrel still in the action. The chamber has to be deepened just to the point that the reamer belt cutting portion JUST TOUCHES the existing Belt recess. IT's very easy to go too far ,which may only be .001-.002 inches. Depending on the reamer and the barrel chamber dimensions there is always the possibility of catching a chip and ringing the chamber. I'd rather catch that early and correct it than wreck the barrel. With that said, It can be done with a T-handled reamer, will be done and sometimes even works out fine. It's just a matter of choice. Me ,I would never do it. I'll bet that for every success there are a bunch of horror stories. For a gun that might be used on dangerous game, why take an unnecessary risk,just to save a few dollars. That's my two cents.-Rob | |||
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Hey Rob, I suppose that the barrel can be reset if the reamer cuts a little bit too far into the belt recess. Would it be better to ream deeper and then re-time the barrel or it is really unnesseary? Thanks. | |||
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Robgunbuilder, have you ever seen a reamer that did not cut a belt recess? That is, the portion of the reamer at the belt is "solid and noncutting." The idea is that when modifications (.458 Win. to .458 Lott?) are made to a chamber that has a preexisting belt recess, that the belt recess will not be cut deeper by the modifying reamer. Such a reamer is mentioned on p. 57 of the A-Square manual as having been thought up by Jack Lott for making .458 Lott chambers out of preexisting .458 Win. chambers (?), but it is not clear from the text that such a reamer was ever actually made. | |||
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I rechambered a Kodiak MkIV from 45-70 to 45-120 by hand with a T Handle and a finish reamer. The rifle was just as accurate afterward as before. The factory sights were regulated prior to the rechamber with a 300 gr factory load. After the rechamber the rifle shot dead on to the sights with a 480 Woodleigh at 2060 fps. Took all of 30 minutes to do both barrels, reassemble and test fire. Try doing this job in your lathe in 30 minutes RBG. TEG | |||
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quote:i see you didn't say it was your's, so obviously you can't post any pics of it. quote:he said is could be done, TOAD, by hand. for a bolt rifle, basis of this thread. however, it COULD be done in a 4jaw lathe, with a huge throughhole to accomodate the width of 2 barrels. "just as accurate".. or inaccurate see my drillpress/brother-in-law cousin post.... jeffe [ 10-30-2002, 06:29: Message edited by: jeffeosso ] | |||
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TEG - Is there ANYTHING you won't claim to have done or know? According to all your bullshit posts you just about invented gun powder. At least assuming anyone believes a word you say...which no one does. Have a nice pretend life. | |||
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quote:TEGGY obviously your wrists are either very weak or you had the reamers in backwards. I took the same rifle and did the same job in just under 12 minutes. I find the "T handle" distorts my "feel" of the chamber so I prefer to just hold the reamer in my bare hand. I also didn't have to regulate the sights as I installed a solar powered "sight regulator" of my own design prior to the job. Afterward the rifle shot dead on at 1,000 yds and I have killed 16 buffalo with it since...all brain shots, of course. Sorry I don't have any photo's but I didn't have any digital camera film. Like the old saying goes: " The first liar doesn't stand a chance. [ 10-31-2002, 01:04: Message edited by: Pecos45 ] | |||
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Many thanks for all (well most) of the responses. I did make a mis-quote in my original post - I said the article stated that the job could be done without removing the barrel/action from the stock but what it actually says is that it can be done without removing the barrel from the action. Sorry for this error. I too have heard of the "rechambering" reamer (mentioned by a previous poster)that will not let you mess up by cutting the belt part of the chamber - I think it is mentioned in the article in African Hunter. I have not been able to find one in real life either. Scott | |||
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TOADE first we were not talking about doubles and secondly did you hold the barrel in a vise and grip the reamer in you teeth and spin your head around to ream the chamber?I sincerely doubt that TOADE ( TEG) has ever done anything that he claims. Whenever his lips are moving he's telling a lie. Post some pictures TOADE! How about a close-up chamber cast so we can see the rings! Please don't post a picture of a Kodiak off some website and claim you did all the work. Show us some pictures of you actually reaming the chamber. By the way ,did you use a .458 chucking reamer? There certainly is no proof. Considering his shooting ability is probably at best 12 inches at 50 yrds off a rest anyway, how would he even know if he screwed up the chamber. The fact that a gun so butchered still goes bang afterwards doesn't impress me in the least. Would any of you ever shoot a gun worked on by TOADE! Not me! Hey- TOADE-On another of your BS posts, I see you changed your name and address again! What happened! SDS- As far as a reamer that doesn't cut a belt goes. If you were doing enough of these jobs it would probably be worth the cost of $125 for such a reamer. I have a 450 Ackley Mag reamer that I've used about 4 times and having a special one cut just isn't worth it particularily since I can get away without it. But then again, unlike TOADE, I have a good Lathe and know how to use it.-Rob [ 10-30-2002, 19:36: Message edited by: Robgunbuilder ] | |||
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RBG, I used a 45-120 finishing reamer, which had been modified a bit. We also used a guide bushing. The guide bushing necessitated the reamer modifications. I don't normally take pictures of such things either Rob. Do you take pictures of yourself when/if you change your car's motor oil? Come on man, if you are so pathetically vain as to take a picture of every little thing you do so You can post it later to brag about "how smart you are" I feel very sorry for you. What posts are you referring to in which I changed my name and home address? I think you are just paranoid. TEG | |||
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quote:It, again, doesn't answer a direct question!! changing oil indeed...you also stated you modified the reamer... so it's no longer just a finish reamer... if you thought this was significant enough to mention, then some photos for posteirity would be in order... or are you saying that, in fact, you don't have a car to change the oil in, much like you don't have any guns? that is, of course, if you had any photos. Toad, post your pictures... everyone you have attacked as, at least, 1 rifle picture posted, save yourself. I too, have a couple lathes, and i know how to use them jeffe [ 10-30-2002, 20:39: Message edited by: jeffeosso ] | |||
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