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Yeah, me neither!! That said, I have bought about half a dozen big bore bolt rifles here this year; and a couple nice SxS shotguns. Even a few handguns. I never figured out the advantage of having a lot of $$$ in gold either. Ever try to pay for a shopping cart full of groceries with a Krugerand? Rich | |||
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I have some experience with .600OKs built on CZ550's, 602's and Enfields as well as GMAs Vektors etc. The easiest and best bang for the buck is a CZ. The barrel I have is threaded and chambered. All you have to do is face it and adjust the shoulder and you can use a std .600OK case to headspace it. Enfields are fine, but you will put alot of work into one to get it to shoot. The CZ is way easier as that was the action, I designed this cartridge around in the first place. I'm not interested in making money on this, just as Fritz 454 said, getting another guy shooting a .600Ok is enough reward for me. Think about it carefully. Personally I'd trade the Enfield and find a CZ.-Rob Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012 Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise! | |||
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Hey Rob I know the CZ would make the better option and in the long term I'm probably going to regreet it, but I'm going to stay with the Enfield. No real reason other than I plan on helping the Machinest and the gunsmith do a bit on this rifle, I want to be more hands on with this build. I just like the idea of building it from srcatch, like an old automobile restoration, you spend more money restoring it than going out and buying a new model From the ground up so to speak. Have confirmed with John and have promised to buy his .620 blank, it's coming your way for chambering before it makes it way to Australia Have been inspired by PWS and will build one similar to what he has done with his Enfield. Single stack magazine box. Rear peep and open sight at the front. Barrel to be parralel from the action at 1.3 for 6 inches and slow taper to 1.0 at 25 inches, plus a 4 inch "fritz454" designed muzzle brake Jeffe is whipping me up a big thick black/grey laminate stock to be finished here in Oz I would still appreaciate any input you have on this build, you have too muck knowledge of the working of this round not to listen to. regards Joe aka S&F | |||
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No problem, but lets discuss the chambering before I cut metal. You cant easily put it back once its done. I suggest a deep chamber. Check with your gunsmith and see what he wants.-Rob Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012 Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise! | |||
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Yes Rob that is what he wants, I got PACNOR to do the same when I had Jeffe's 500 AccRel sent to me. Pacnor made the chamber .050 deeper and my gunsmith shaved it down for headspacing here in Australia You may want to go in a bit deeper maybe another .050 to .100 but that should be enough. What do you thinK we could use as a GAUGE for headspacing ? Should I get a GO GAUGE made up ? or have you got half a case with just head and belt that has the right measurement ? regards Joe aka S&F | |||
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Joe, Deep chambering is the way to go. There is no reason .030 deep isn't plenty. The rest is a waste of material and hard on the reamer. I would hate to develop chatter trying to go deeper than the reamer was designed for. Rob certainly knows what he's doing but #hit happens. As far as a gage goes, since it's got a belt your smith should be able to make one. I don't have the origional drawing here but all he needs to do is turn a piece of material (brass) to the correct diameter and cut off at the right depth. This is novice level machining. All cuts are right angles to each other so no tappering required. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes and that includes looking for the material and setting up the lathe. Rob, can you email or PM me your address. Since you went to LV I don't have the new one. My email is the same as always. I'll get the barrel and brake off to you. | |||
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Joe- Check with your gunsmith. The Barrel face usually needs to be 45 degree coned for a P14 or 1917 bolt.long chambering may not work well at all unless he's real good at adjusting the cone depth. I have to think about this! Probably best thing is to short chamber and get a reamer made to send along with the barrel so that your gunsmith can finish it off. Hope he knows how to cut square threads. Normally, you face the breech end of the barrel, turn the tennon to diameter and length and Square thread the barrel 10TPI. Then you cut the cone till the bolt just closes. Then you chamber and adjust headspace with the reamer by hand.Finally there is the extractor cut with a mill. The last one of these I did was on a 470 Mbogo and it worked out fine. -Rob Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012 Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise! | |||
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Actually Rob Would you be upset if I did get a reamer made and sent over to Australia. Or maybe you would want to retain ownership of it and charge me a rental fee on it ? There's no paperwork involved in shipping reamers, it's pretty straight forward. I've had a number of reamers sent to me from both PTG and Manson I can promise to return it after use if you require or buy it, it's up to you and might save you some work John was a little concerned with international shipping and paperwork. I mentioned it to Jeffe because he has sent me dies and gauges in the past with a copy of my import and customs documentation emailed over to him, he might be able to ship the bits and pieces over from the USA. He's like my international AR brother and not a bad gentlemen either, I trust him If thats fine, neither you or John need to worry about the paperwork, infact there is very little paperwork on small bits and pieces it's more commecial lots that are the problem, i believe I'm not sure how it works in the USA but as long as it's not an action with a bolt and a firing pin, or something with a serial number on it, we are aloud to import, with prior approval and a simple permit, a rifled steel blank, a laminate stock, dies, brass cases without much fuss. Infact if it's under $100 US you can order heaps of gunsmithing bits and pieces from Brownells to Australia. Thats were I'm going to get the NECG peep, barrel band and front sight from. Or if I need anything else I can get my local gun dealer to import them, but I'm told at my end there is no need as long as I have the import documentation I'm fine, thats how Jeffe, Ruger, boyds, pacnor, Brownells and my gunsmith in Oz built the 500 AccRel. regards Joe aka S&F | |||
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S&F- I'll authorize you to have a reamer made. JGS made mine. I'm sure others like have the prints by now also. If you tell them you have gotten my permission, they will call me and verify. Honestly, it would be best if your smith did everything over there. This is a more complicated project than a CZ550.-Rob Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012 Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise! | |||
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you're a good man RGB! Rich | |||
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Rob I really appreciate that, At least you know there will be ONE reamer in Australia. I have sent an email off to JGS, just awaiting their reply regards Joe aka S&F | |||
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I've found that just over 2300 is plenty for me. ------------------------------------ Add about 360 posts to the total. My username was wiped out with the last board update. | |||
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