Hi all, I got my NECG sights put on today. I got a single fixed with one folding leaf rear and the universal ramp for the front. The rear sight has a verticle line that is about impossible to see. Should I do some gold inlay to make it more visible? Suggestions? I got a gold inlay kit from Brownells, but haven't tried it yet.




Thoughts?

More pics.

I don't see how you are going to be able to use a shallow v rear with a blade front sight unless you plan on filing a square notch into the rear blade. A bead is the usual front sight with such an express rear.

Lar45,

Looking good. Is that a gold/brass front patridge that adjusts for elevation by turning a tiny hex screw in the flat top of the ramp, just rearward of the post?



A square notch should be filed in, of the same width as the front sight blade. With the rear closer to the eye, the notch will appear twice as wide as the front post, and that is good, with a bit of day light on either side of the front post, it centers fast.



If you have the adjustable elevation on the front, hopefully it will be a cinch to get sighted in, if front and rear sight height are anywhere near a good match for your load.



With a gold front, the centerline of the rear leaf can be painted in with white, gold or red automobile touchup paint and a tiny artists brush. Or do the Brownwell's kit gold line.



Another thing to think about is the way the top line of the flat black rear sight disappears against the skin of Mbogo, the Black Death, or an American black bear.



Highlighting the top line of the rear sight with red or gold is another thought to aid rapid fire on black targets.



Many doubles have flat topped square notched rear leaves combined with a square post front. Like my Merkel. It lines up fast and precisely.



The most common features of "Ye Olde English Sissy" double rifles, are not necessarily the best for every situation.

PS: Congratulations on pulling this off! An amazing feat for a self taught double rifle builder. Looks like a nice new stock to replace the splintered one. It will be interesting to see how it shoots with the great new sights. How did the regulation work out?

"Is that a gold/brass front patridge that adjusts for elevation by turning a tiny hex screw in the flat top of the ramp, just rearward of the post? "

Yes that's the one. It is a gold partridge front. They have different heights, so I'll be able to swith to a differnet height if needed.

"A square notch should be filed in, of the same width as the front sight blade. With the rear closer to the eye, the notch will appear twice as wide as the front post, and that is good, with a bit of day light on either side of the front post, it centers fast."

Okay, I'll try that. If it doesn't work, I can just replace the sight portion and leave the base on.

"Another thing to think about is the way the top line of the flat black rear sight disappears against the skin of Mbogo, the Black Death, or an American black bear.

Highlighting the top line of the rear sight with red or gold is another thought to aid rapid fire on black targets. "

Would I want a gold inlay on the top of the sight, around the rear notch, verticle line or all???????

The regulation is close, but not complete yet. I've just been sighting down the rib and thought I should put the sights on to finish things up.

The stock is the original one. I caught the crack before it splintered. I spread the crack apart and poured in some acra glass, then clamped it together till it cured. I then glassed in several machine screws lengthwise and crosswise in the weak areas. I also drilled through the pistol grip from the inside down into the buttstock and glassed in a long piece of round cold rolled. The recoil lug on the action was kind of narrow I thought, so I milled a wide recoil lug and inletted the stock for it to help in dispersing the recoil stress. I have the recoil pad put on, but need to borrow a belt sander to profile it.

The sights were made for a round barrel, so I milled flats on the bottom to sit tightly on the rib.

It still has a few detail to finish up, but it is a blast to shoot. I tried some 500XLC's and 500cast at 2150 and they shoot to the same point, so I've just been shooting cast.

What should I file the rear sight leaves for? The fixed at 50yds and the folding at 100, 150???

My 15yo son used to flinch on his 06' until he shot this, now the 06' doesn't bother him at all. He made a fine shot on a running Elk this past fall and rolled it with one shot at around 200yds. He tell's me I should finnish this up soon so we can do a heavy 12bore on the 10ga double.

Fixed sight @ 50 yds. and the folding leaf sight @ 100 yds.

LAR45,
I think a gold line along the top edge of the flat sight, and a gold vertical middle line that ends at the bottom of the square notch would be best. Just enough to stand out when sights are held on black target with sights in the shade. That gold patridge front will be good. You can always paint it white if more contrast is needed when spelunking for leopards. Better than a "moon bead" flipping up in front of a tiny target bead.

475Guy has recommended the usual for one standing and one folding leaf on a 470 NE. There is not much difference between the two, however.

If you are sighted dead on at 50 yards/meters, then you will still be very close at 100 yards/meters with the same sight. The 470 NE and a 22WMR have a similar trajectory, flatter shooting than a 22LR.

50 and 150 is more appealing to me, but I think one fixed leaf and learn to hold the patridge above the flattop of the rear sight for elevation is the best approach. One flat topped fixed leaf with square notch and know your trajectory and what the front sight subtends is all that is necessary. It might be something like hold half the height of the patridge above the flat top for a 200 yard hit. That would be as far as one should shoot at DG, unless you are MS or Elmer Keith.

Looks very very nice to me. I might try using white epoxy instead of gold myself.I like the way it shows up and it looks nice,though not as nice as real ivory of course.
Did you end up reregulating after you sleeved it or was it close enough?