Hi guys.

Would some of you be willing to share your mounting systems that you use on your CZ and ZKK Brno's? Photos would be great.

What didn't work for you and why - particularily with the large caliber guns.

Thanks,

Take a look at Dave Talley mounts. Works well on a .500 AHR CZ with removal scope which is advisable for hunting. pm

I am uing a leupold compact 2.5 power scope with Warne Quick detach rings. Works great so far.

David

Old Weaver steel K1.5, CZ mounts, fine so far.

The smith built a steel rail having weaver dimensions between the bridges. It has "feet" that are inset into the bridges so that recoil pushes against the rail itself.

The rail has two weaver slots milled into it. They are a perfect fit for the square bars under Leupold QRW rings.

So far, it works great.

Short of EAW the ones we did on My old gun, now Mike Starling's are the best answer to the CZ bridge problem with short scopes

Aleko

JJP,
I suggested this to you before so try this for pictures.
www.warnescopemounts.com
www.talleyrings.com
I think, but didn't measure them to be sure, my CZ 550 takes the 19mm detachable rings. Send an email to either of these fine companies and they will answer you specifically.

Warnes & Talleys are as good as any and readily available. The old factory Brno rings are good too but hard to find. The very best I've ever seen were made by Maurice Ottmar, but there won't be any more of those.

Guys,

A little added clarity is in order ... the very nifty mount on my CZ 550 was designed and implemented by Aleko and his gunsmith, My only contribution to it was the addition of the Leupold rings with their precision fit.

Aleko does REALLY nice stuff!!!

My apologies for the initial omission ... got off a plane earlier in the day and apparently wasn't quite all there,

I use Warne Premier and talley rings. I've been completely satisfied.-Rob

I tried Millet, but they slide on reciever. Replaced with Warne detach, they are fine.

I use warnes and also have one set of talley's. I also use a set of the cz mounts. All are good mounts.

i want to use warne detach mounts to put a leupold 3x9x40 on my cz 550 lux in 9.3x62. can anyone tell me if i can use the medium height or will i have to use the high ones. thanks...bud

I use Warne rings on my CZ550, 416 Rigby. I have had no issues at all, and they always return to zero.

do you have the medium or high rings

I use 30mm CZ rings, specially modified with 8-40 torx head ring screws, on a 550 Magnum in .458 Lott. The scope is a Swaro Habicht PV 1.25-4x24.

No problems so far (about three hundred rounds). The rings are not QD, but return to zero when removed and replaced with a screwdriver.

I am using high mounts. The scope is a 3-9 Zeiss. The high mounts get the scope out of the rear sight.

CZ rings , Leupold 3-9, after 200 rounds still no problems.
Mike

Warne QD mounts with Leupold 1.5-5X on a CZ 585.
CZ mounts(I think) and a nikko 1.5-5 cheapy on a CZ 375.

Karl.

Talley fixed rings on my 9.3x62 CZ 550. Although not a big bore, the mounts (which hold a Leupold VariX III 2.5-8 scope) have 600+ rounds with no problems.

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!

mrlexma,

the cz mounts are almost like the talley qd's without the lever, I have found the samething with them terurning to zero, I have added torx screws to my cz mounts on my .375 and have swapped out the attaching bolts with torx head bolts as well, a turn with an allen key and there off. Dagaron has a recipe for a lever for the cz mounts as well I think.

Yep,
The standard CZ mounts are good, as well as the old BRNO ZKK 602 rings, the integral setup on some old Zeiss scopes, the Warnes, and the Talley's.

I prefer any used should have a QD feature, and the hex head screw replacement of the factory slotted head screws is good, since that hex wrench is a 5 mm one and will not strip or booger out in human hands.

I made my own QD levers for the standard CZ factory rings. Though the rings are a little high, they will work with just about any scope on the CZ 550 Magnum.



Above are the parts. The standard factory slotted head screws and the replacement hex socket metric screws, M6-1.0x25mm metric screws that can be had at auto parts suppliers. Also shown are the QD levers taken off of the old-style Leupold QRW rings that I had discarded for the new Leupold QRW rings that have a square recoil shoulder in the cross slot. Some matte black ones are shown.

Drill and tap the QD lever to accept the metric screw, then time the lever and screw to position correctly when installed. Then set the screw in the QD lever threads with epoxy.

The turning of the lever to remove the scope actually tightens the lever to the screw, so there is no way it can break loose. The trick is getting them timed to line up when tight on the gun.



Above are some of the silver/nickel plated levers on a CZ 550 Magnum .338 Lapua with a stainless barrel and a Zeiss 3x-9x Conquest.



Above are some of the matte black levers on a CZ 550 Medium 9.3x62 with an old Leupold M8 4x.



And above, for comparison, the Warne QD lever rings on a CZ 550 Magnum 45 Lapua with a stainless barrel and a Leupold M8 2.5X.
Notice that this is one of the early CZ Lux stocks that came on a .375 H&H rifle with no cross bolts and had a ventilated rubber butt pad.
The cheekpiece on this stock was different, rounded instead of the jaeger-angle at the rear.
The forearm is sightly bulkier than the current Lux also. This rifle also holds 4 of the 45 Lapuas (or .416 Rigby's) in the box with no modification. It is not too tight, it feeds very well. It was pillar bedded with machined aluminum pillars, and this may have dropped the box a hair, but all is well with feeding softs and solids, good and tight all around, 4 + 1 of the Rigby sized cases.

I might as well post photos of the .338 Lapua and the 45 Lapua rifles for comparison of the old to the new Lux stocks. Love those humpies. Both rifles have 23" stainless barrels.

.338 Lapua (current Lux):


45 Lapua (old Lux, with new pad, pillars and crossbolts):


I might add that the homemade QD levers can be turned down tighter than finger tight using the heavy 5 mm hex wrench in your pocket. If you do that, you will need to use the hex wrench to get them off, or a hammer. That is one peculiar superiority of the homemade version to any other I have seen.

[ 10-05-2003, 07:05: Message edited by: DaggaRon ]