I just bought a 300WM Zastava M70 as a donor action and a Walther pre-chambered 458Win barrel for my son's latest project.

Whatever stock I put it in is obviously going to need some work to handle the recoil of a 458Win. I wanted to read up on fitting cross-bolts, but haven't found any good material. Can anyone recommend something online?

Already well proven; put the bolts between the receiver recoil lug and the mag box and rear one in the thin web in front of the trigger. Look at a picture of a Model 70 Express and see where they go. Also put a lug on the barrel 3 inches in front of the receiver. Weld, dovetail, or solder but it must have a milled seat on the barrel. I will send you a picture if you want.
Brownells sells the bolts. Or make your own.

Thanks for the answer. How essential is the second recoil lug? Is there any other option?

I don't know anything about Zastava M70 but assume it is a M98 based rifle. Assuming a wood stock I would definitely want a barrel mounted recoil lug in 458.

M98 has a very small action recoil lug and also a very small amount of stock material behind the little recoil lug.

Is there another way. Personally I prefer the Mark V Wby system of the barrel lug being mounted on the knoxform of barrel, about an inch or so from the action.

Another way (similar used by Ruger) is a metal plate/strap that at one end has a slot for the action recoil lug and the strap/plate extends into the forend of the stock for a few inches. It can have its own recoil lug or can be full of holes and epoxied into the stock.

Another way would be for a gunsmith to fit a Remington 700 style recoil lug between shoulder of barrel and action. This gives much bigger recoil lug and stock material behind the recoil lug.

front cross bolt is to align with recoil lug on the front of the receiver - it takes the load bearing surface from (something like) 9mmx22mm to more like 9mmx50mm

the rear cross bolt is to prevent expansion (accordianing) of the weak part of the web of the rear of the action -- as recoil comes back and down, it levers the action -- sort of like pressing the ends of an old style coin purse

for quick and dirty home shop methood , get a 3/8 plug cutter and some 1/4 thick ebony to make your 4 plugs, 5/16 drill bit, and 3/8 end mill - end mill as it will cut a square bottomed hole

FIX the stock, drill 5/16 all the way through (tape off the other side to prevent breakout), and then use a 3/8 END MILL (high rpm, low feed rate) to make a cover for that one -- repeat on other, turn stock over, use 5/16 drill as alignment tool, recut 3/8 end caps -- epoxy it all in, file to fit .. i suggest practicing a couple times on a 2x4 to get the feel of it

you SHOULD either pillar the rear screw and/or put a "wrist pin" axially down the grip .. sounds more complicated than it is .. take a long 5/16 bit, and from the back corner of the rear inletting, drill down 2 inches, and put in a rod/pin stock -- brass 1/4" threaded rod, i prefer thick walled stainless tubing, as I can inject epoxy into it and backfill the space

above all else, there should be 0.020 or more clearance around the rear tang and the wood, to prevent chipping

good luck
j

Brownells makes a neat jig for drilling Talley cross bolt holes in your rifle, that simplifies the installation, its damn easy to drill a hole a tad off center and ruin a stock or even patch it..Those jigs if you buy two you can convert one for the rear holes that are touchy to place correctly for some folks or newbies to the job.

I drilled an angle hole in my jig, to lock the recoil lug in the jig so its solid and won't move. then when done I glass up the hole or perhaps the whole mortis..

I am a little surprised that more people are not using concealed cross bolts ala Jack Lott's old method. It is super easy when incorporated into a glass bedding job. Admittedly they do not have the "cool" look, but it is just as effective.

quote:

Originally posted by squeezenhope:
I am a little surprised that more people are not using concealed cross bolts ala Jack Lott's old method. It is super easy when incorporated into a glass bedding job. Admittedly they do not have the "cool" look, but it is just as effective.

Agree 100%. I reckon no gun company has had as much experience over both time and number of heavy kicking rifles than Weatherby and of course concealed bolts used by Weatherby.

quote:

Originally posted by squeezenhope:
I am a little surprised that more people are not using concealed cross bolts ala Jack Lott's old method. It is super easy when incorporated into a glass bedding job. Admittedly they do not have the "cool" look, but it is just as effective.

My thoughts also I put them in a couple of cracked stocks with good results.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:

quote:

Originally posted by squeezenhope:
I am a little surprised that more people are not using concealed cross bolts ala Jack Lott's old method. It is super easy when incorporated into a glass bedding job. Admittedly they do not have the "cool" look, but it is just as effective.

My thoughts also I put them in a couple of cracked stocks with good results.

Ditto, ditto.
But, if you are building from scratch, consider a synthetic stock with full-metal endoskeleton/bedding block, for no worries about crossbolts of any kind.
No need for a secondary lug on the barrel, but you can still do that if you like.
Bell & Carlson makes such a first-prize "Medalist" type stock for the Mauser M98, last check it was only about $250 US.

No crossbolts, no barrel lug, on the above, and it is on a .510/.338 Lapua Magnum, primarily used without its Vais Brake.
Duane Wiebe's .500 Jeffery bottom metal sticks out of the bottom of a standard M98 stock.
That is a thick-walled, steel, integral magazine box inside of a thick-walled, aircraft aluminum, integral magazine well.
The longer, wider, and deeper than standard M98 magazine was expertly fitted by Rusty McGee,
inside box length is only a few thou over 3.500",
as for .500 Jeffery.
There is lots of metal in those B&C M98 magazine well walls.
Compare it to the .458 WIN below with same first-place "Medalist" type construction for the Win. M70:



Works great, no barrel lug. No crossbolts. Choice of color.
A standard 13.5" LOP can be adjusted to suit by changing pad and/or adding a spacer or a slip-on LOP Extender like I do.
If you do not like a stock as light as 2.0 to 2.5 pounds, you can find a way to add lead or mercury.
I was surprised at how gentle an approximately 8# (7#-15oz with iron sights) .458 WIN can be with 5635 ft-lb loads.
Might be due to some flex in that synthetic butt.
I can also vouch for these minimum-drop B&C stocks being good for iron sights AND scopes, even if some wider-faced individuals say that cannot be so.
OK ! Now I can order a properly sized banded front sight for the Pac-Nor #6 sporter on the .510,
and install it with J-B Weld.
The .458 has a McGowen #4 sporter barrel with a salvaged CZ front sight on it,
hammered into place with J-B Weld grease and a big brass punch so as not to drill any holes near the thin-walled muzzle.

Rip ...

RIP

I am building from scratch & would be quite happy with a good quality synthetic stock. I do like the B&C bedding block and think it would be great for my application. However I have 2 pretty significant constraints:

1) I live in Australia, so have a limited range of products available to begin with; and

2) I am left handed, and have never seen B&C offer a left bolt version of their Mauser 98 stock.

So I think I am snookered there.

You said it, a cool look on a wood stock big bore, and Id bet dollars to donuts the exposed steel big headed cross like Tallleys are stronger, to what degree I have no clue..but Im damn glad I have that option, I doubt that crossbolts are needed on composite stocks..what purpose would they serve..

quote:

Originally posted by Bwana_500:
RIP

I am building from scratch & would be quite happy with a good quality synthetic stock. I do like the B&C bedding block and think it would be great for my application. However I have 2 pretty significant constraints:

1) I live in Australia, so have a limited range of products available to begin with; and

2) I am left handed, and have never seen B&C offer a left bolt version of their Mauser 98 stock.

So I think I am snookered there.

might be surprised what a bit of file work and some bondo can do to convert a righty to lefty synthetic stock

Its only the cheek piece that bothers me on their sporter stocks, otherwise I would be happy to work on one.

See if this is what you are looking for.
It's hard to beat ole Jacques Lott!!

https://imgur.com/8DzoUfJ
https://imgur.com/lCBf1Gr
https://imgur.com/WjfXDAt
https://imgur.com/FTLQNmK
https://imgur.com/bqZyiRt
https://imgur.com/KwSjekX
https://imgur.com/BHT8A2c
https://imgur.com/Kal3vcU
https://imgur.com/UNFHvo2
https://imgur.com/ot6fsnh

I knew I kept that article on file for something.

quote:

Originally posted by Magnum Hunter1:
I knew I kept that article on file for something.

Thanks mate. Will have a read through.

Magnum Hunter 1, excellent article.