I've heard differing opinions on the barrel screws on the Ruger forarm. Some say you should tighten them, then back off a turn. Other say screw them on down and leave them that way.

Which way is right?

It kinda depends on the rifle itself, it seems like each of them have a different personality. I've had a few that worked great by tightening the screw than backing it out a quarter turn, than another one would come along that would act up when this was done.
Have you looked at Brownell's? They have a little doohicky for the forearm that's supposed to help the accuracy issues with the forearm. I don't have any experience with this piece however I'm sure someone else has

quote:

Originally posted by The Metalsmith:

Have you looked at Brownell's? They have a little doohicky for the forearm that's supposed to help the accuracy issues with the forearm. I don't have any experience with this piece however I'm sure someone else has

I have seen doohickys for the No.1, but none for the RSM. Do you have a LINK???

Here's a little trick I learned long ago that really works well. Take a plastic bottle, about the thickness of a bleach bottle, and cut a piece out of it. Drill a hole through it that just allows the forearm screw to go through. Trim the plastic around the screw so that it just fits into the forend. What you now have is a slightly compressable plastic washer. Tighten it down and shoot.
I've done this with over 20 Rugers of mine, relatives, and friends. So far, noone has removed the washer and all have said groups have improved.

quote:

Originally posted by prof242:
Here's a little trick I learned long ago that really works well. Take a plastic bottle, about the thickness of a bleach bottle, and cut a piece out of it. Drill a hole through it that just allows the forearm screw to go through. Trim the plastic around the screw so that it just fits into the forend. What you now have is a slightly compressable plastic washer. Tighten it down and shoot.
I've done this with over 20 Rugers of mine, relatives, and friends. So far, noone has removed the washer and all have said groups have improved.

I would not do the above on the RSM.

The action itself only has a small boss (front action screw) that mates flush into the recoil plate. This recoil plate mates flush into the inletting of the forend. One forend screw holds the recoil plate and the second screw sandwiches the plate between the stock and forend. These parts need to mate flush and square, bedding the plate into the forend is a good idea. Keep the screws snug but not so tight as to damage them.

quote:

Originally posted by GaryVA:

.......bedding the plate into the forend is a good idea.

How exactly can you do this as the front angled action screw has to be able to "get in the hole"??? Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, as I truly want to bed my RSM and have no clue where to begin.

GaryVA, Thanks for the info on the Ruger RSA. I've not worked on one of them, just the std 77s and #1s. As I said, the trick works great on the lesser calibers.

quote:

Originally posted by woodsracer:

quote:

Originally posted by GaryVA:

.......bedding the plate into the forend is a good idea.

How exactly can you do this as the front angled action screw has to be able to "get in the hole"??? Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, as I truly want to bed my RSM and have no clue where to begin.

Have you ever taken apart your RSM or any M77?

Remove the three action screws on your RSM then take out the forward forend screw leaving the recoil plate screwed to the stock. You'll see that you can easily remove and replace the barreled action w/ the plate in place. The only bearing surface to this tiny tit/boss recoil lug is the rear against the back of the plate. You'll notice that the mating hole in the plate is keyhole shaped. Bedding this plate into the stock and even bedding the barreled action as well does not impair your ability to remove or replace the stock.

Compaired to the mkII, the mkII has a larger wedge shaped recoil lug that also uses an angled screw that mates into a matching recess of the stock. You can remove and replace these as well w/out destroying the stock and this angled lug/screw can be bedded as well.

The Ruger angle screw does a good job of drawing the recoil lug against its bearing surface, but the trick is to bed the action so it sits flat and square w/out stress/binding when all three action screws are torqued. This also applies to the barrel screw on the RSM.

quote:

Originally posted by GaryVA:

Have you ever taken apart your RSM or any M77?

Of course I have. Forgive me if my memory is a bit fuzzy, I'm under heavy Narcotics for a injured back.

I remember the flat lug and all. I guess that I need to take it apart again. I blue Loctited the whole shebang the last time I had it apart.