What has been your experience, or that of your associates, in regard to rebores? Have a good % of them proven to be accurate if compared to the average rebarreling? I've heard of a very few instances where the person was entirely satisfied with a rebore.

The only place i know that does a high quaility job is montana rifleman. They WILL refuse jobs that won't turn out right. And they are more than willing to help a customer understand his/her expecations. For instance, they WOULD bore a 3006 to 338-06, mebbe even 35 whelen, but NOT 375 brown/whelen...
I think that people would need to understand that a rebore is NOT magic, but it can either salvage a ruined bore, increase claiber a tad, OR allow for relining (basically low pressure stuff).

Hey Nickudu
.. are you playing on having your gibbs bored to .510 and then have a 505 gibbs/510, that can shoot just about ANY projectile? If you are, you might talk with Dave at CH4D first, and see if he wont just make you some swagging gear to resize the .510 to .505....

cheers
jeffe

Cliff LaBounty does flawless reboring work. He's done a couple for me. Turnaround with him these days can be a problem due to his "popularity".

Thank You Jeffe & Ed, very much. Jeffe, I do have interest in going to .510" but my barrel shoots so very well that I'm truly afraid put it at risk. As you suggest, I'll have a word with Dave.

Back in the "bad old days" of the '50' & 60's, before there were so many exceptional quality rifle barrels being made, rebores were very often more accurate than the barrel was before being rebored!! I had an M1886 Winchester rebored from .33 WCF to .45/70, and an M71 Win. in .348 rebored and rechambered to .450 Alaskan. Both jobs were done by the old Atkinson & Marquart Rifle Co. of Prescott, AZ. Both of these shot MUCH BETTER with their new bores than either had in the factory caliber!! But each job took over a year from when I sent the gun until it came back!!

Doesn't Wells Sport Store in Prescott, AZ do that too? I think so, but I am not sure. If you call them, you should talk to Dan Pedersen.

Nick,
Cliff LaBounty did the rebore on my Ruger to .505 Gibbs. It gets cloverleafs at 50 meters. I am most happy with it.
Ron

Thanks to All.

Jeffeoso,
Dave emailed back that he knew of no swagging tool to open up the .505 to .510". If someone knows if a .510 rifling button can accomplish this in a button-rifled .505 barrel, would you kindly let me know? Thank You.

Nick:

Let me (us) know what you finally find out. I am interested in going from a 375 H&H to 416 Rem. Mag., but hoping that it wouldn't take a year. I don't have that much patience.

Will

Yes Jeffe, I misread and was about to correct myself when I saw your post.

Barnes draws down their .510" bullets to .505 for me, so I'm O.K. there. My initial misreading of your post got me thinking that, since I required the removal of so little material, perhaps it was a possibility to do so with a riflig button. But, as Dave told me, most reborers require a minimum of .015" to work with, so I doubt this is a viable option. So little needs to change, I'm wondering if the barrel could be somehow "lapped" up to .510", using various grades of compound. Just "BS'g" out loud.

[ 09-21-2002, 20:47: Message edited by: Nickudu ]

Nickuku,
I am sitting, actually wondering how many rounds you would need to put down the barrel for it would lap out to .510. Can you imagine this (and I am sititng here laughing too) showing up to a range, with like 20 friends and 2000 rounds?
At the end of the day, there would be a CAVE in the berm filled with 505 hawks (as I think that's the cheapist)
Hey, man, sign me up for 100!!! I would love it. You could even make the money back by offering a cash bar for those that shoot 10 or MORE!!
Now, not to incourage bad behavoir, but has anyone tried shooting .510 in a .505? I've shot .311 in a 308... I didn't know, as my dad was loading for me then. Seemed fine. Ackley did quite a bit of "overbore" shooting, as he outlines in his books, upto and including 358 in a 3006.
this would probably ruin premium bullets, especially any "framed" bullets, as I bet you would be pre-serating the jacket/bond.

just rambling now, I think.

I think your gun is awesome, and if you can get bullets cheap enough, then is there an issue? would be dang nice to shoot the BMG pulls for 20-25� each. (btw, the � sign is the keystrokes of alt+1+5+5)

jeffe

Jeffe - Applying lapping compound to the bullets? Hey that's a good idea! I was actually thinking of using a bore polishing tool of some kind but now you've got me thinkin' again!

So, old P.O.A. fired .358 bullets through an '06??
Guess it was a customers gun, eh? Phew, I wouldn't care to try that with "X" bullets.

[ 09-22-2002, 00:52: Message edited by: Nickudu ]

Nickudu:

Why not just get a cut down die from Corbin and use whatever bullet you want? I use one for loading .400/.360 NE. Groove diameter of my rifle is .363 and I use off-the-shelf 9.3 (.366) bullets swaged down. Takes about 20 minutes to reduce 50.

There's a long, long wait involved at Corbin. I thought I'd look at other possibilities first.

[ 09-22-2002, 22:33: Message edited by: Nickudu ]

Nick,

Have you tried Richard Corbin. I have ordered gear from him to make bullets in 416. He is quoting 4 months and the jacket maker tells me is quite reliable with times. He is also quite a bit cheaper than Dave Corbin. Also, from what I could find out those who have been down both roads prefer Richard.

I guess another option would be to cut the neck and throat of your 505 for 510 and just shoot 510s through it. Although the difference is smaller,I know that 308s through a .3065" are not only good but tend to shoot better with Barnes X than when fired through a 308 barrel. Where the .3065 barrels come from is that in Australia, they make barrels for target shooting with 7.62 Nato ammo which has a 144 grain boat tail and they shoot better through the smaller barrel. A mate of mine has had 300 Wby, 300 Jarret and 300 Ultra made on thse .3065 barrels and that is because he is real Barnes X fan and they seem to shoot better in undersize barrels.

Another plus you might gain is that if the bullet is close to the rifling, then the oversize bullet might mean you could eliminate the filler for your loads.

Mike

[ 09-22-2002, 05:54: Message edited by: Mike375 ]

Yes, Mike. I contacted Corbin when I first brought my rifle in from R.S.A. I wanted a reducing die .510" to .505". They said 4 months. They contacted me 6 months later and said they were now ready to start my die but needed to ask me a few questions. I asked again when I would actually have the die and they said 4 months. As I was leaving to hunt in 2 months, I said "Goodbye". Nothing against Corbins but if you need something from them you had best be in no rush. They think the world revolves on their schedule.

Nick,

Did you contact Corbin Mfg or RCE, which is Ricard Corbin. Richard is Dave's brother and left Corbin Mfg sometime ago to do his own thing.

Mike

Corbin, from the website, as I recall. Nice people but I just couldn't wait any longer.

Nick,

This is probably the one you tried

http://www.corbins.com/

which is Dave Corbin and has the reputation of which you speak.

This one

http://www.rceco.com/

is Richard Corbin who is Dave’s brother and does not have the reputation of which you speak. It is this one I have ordered 416 gear from.

Mike

Message Received!

Nickudu,
Man, I spent some time thinking about this, you know in the "library"... If you took it to .510, in any fashion, you'll need 505/510 dies to be able to reload. Sure, you might get by loading with swapping out for a .510 expander or M, but when you go to crimp, you might hit bullet, before you hit case. So then you would need a crimper die.
While I think it would be dang cool to have a 505 that you can shoot the cheaper bulelts with, there will be "issues". If you have it throated around a .510 and leave the barrel, you'll still need dies. Even if you swap the barrel, you'll need new dies.
Now, for a little more humor, how about a 505 gibbs and 585 nyati switch barrel? The gibbs for scoped hunting, like plains game and babboon, and the nyati for the heavier stuff. Elmer would be proud of me!!!
Sounds like leaving it be, and teaching it to shoot hawk bullets when at practice if your best bet. I am sure you like to shoot yours like we shoot our big stuff. take a box of 40 to the range, and stay all day.

good hunting
jeffe

Jeffe,
Sorry if I kept you up burning the midnight oil! You are quite right of course. I really want to use the 570 grain XLC bullets (the ones with the blue coating) so I'm sort of locked in to the .510" bore as Barnes can't justify making the .505 bullets with this coating at that weight. Right now, I'm drawing down the .510"/570 grainers to .505 and then molycoating them myself. I'll probably wind up building a .500 Jeffrey and that will solve the problem. I'm fairly sure I can get the same 2300 fps with the Jeffrey and I'll have the bullet I want. Anyone interested in a lovely .505?

[ 09-23-2002, 04:29: Message edited by: Nickudu ]

Dang it, Nick!!!
You are really tempting me to get started on a 50 something now. I am close to wrapping up the 376 (will need sights and checkering, but I'll farm out the checkering) and the 416 is shooting great. I have been thinking about a 470 mbogo, as I WANT a 470 ne, but I could build half a dozen bolts for the cost of that one.
Hmm, I've got a decent (read:already nicely sporterized) p17 in 3006 that I was going to build a nyati on. I am still thinking about that one (read my next topic of 585 vs 577 loads). hey Rob, you got a p14 bolt and unaltered bottommetal sitting around?
jeffe

Jeffe,
I've got a .470 Mbogo round sitting on my computer (a gift from Dave) and the more I study it the more I appreciate the thought behind it. It really is of superb design and is certainly worthy of your consideration.