This question is prompted in part by the thread on light .375 loads. I have a double .375 with pretty thin at the end barrels. On a mid 80s
day here in the midwest, after a couple shots those barrels are as hot as a firecracker-REALLY hot!
So, I spend plenty of time just sitting dreaming of Africa. The question is what damage does this heat
have on the gun, and would lighter loads decrease wear??

577ne, you're right about the barrels on double rifles heating very quickly, and getting hotter than the thicker barrels of bolt rifles. You have to understand, the double rifle was designed for four, or six shots in quick time, starting with "ROOM TEMPRATURE" barrels. Then the barrels are allowed to cool. The double is "HUNTING" rifle not a bench rest rifle.

To sit at a bench, and shoot a 20 round box of ammo as you might with a bolt rifle, is not good for your double. I shoot in sequinces of four shots when working up loads, or practiceing. One thing you can do if you are pressed for time, is use the canned air you use to dust the keyboard of your computer. This stuff is clean, and will quickly cool the barrels when sprayed down the tubes.

What kind of rifle is your double rifle, and is it a 375 H&H flanged, or a belted mag?

Mac D37 Thanks for the reply. The rifle is a Jules Bury Belgian made .375 H&H belted rimless.
Both Holland and Westley have made doubles on rimless cartrages for 50 years, and although the
extractor mechanism is a flimsey looking device,
I guess it is completly reliable. I spend an hour shooting 12-14 rounds. In the fall and winter, the heat is not a problem. I've probablt shot 200 rounds through it, and the barrels look OK, but I'm
no expert. My best 6 shot groups are about 3"
at 100 yds. I can also shoot a 6" group at 100yds.
Maybe I should practice with something else with
open sights.

The best rule to follow on barrel heating is - if you cannot hold on to the barrel, don�t shoot it. Thin barrels heat quicker than heavy barrels. Heavy barrels have a built in heat sink. In any event, shooting a hot barrel is the quickest way to throat erosion.

577ne, heat only bothers the barrels if it is over heated, then shot some more! A string of six shots will not hurt the rifle, if started off with cool barrels, then allowed to cool before the next string of six! Zero Drift is correct! Heavier barrels act as a heat sink in a single barrel rifle,heat up slower, and cool more quickly. I've heard some folks on this, and other forums state that the ribs between the barrels on a double rifle act as heat sinks, but this is not exactly true! There is a space between the upper, and lower ribs, where the sides of the barrels are not exposed to the open air, and this heat is retained longer unless atrificialy releaved by something like the canned air sprayed down the barrels. The only other alternative is to leave the rifle open and let the air cerculate through the barrels. The fact that the heat is retained between the ribs, negates the "IF YOU CAN HOLD IT" theory somewhat, because these surfaces cannot be felt with your hands!

The other thing about rimless cartridges in a double rifle is simply that the extractors "CAN" give you a problem that you don't need, at a moment where you REALLY don't need it. In this case once is enough. The fact that all the makers have chambered for rimless cartridges in double, dosen't make it a prudent thing to do.

I simply don't like to take chances with rimless cartridges in a double rifle that I may use for a DGR.

The 375 H&H is a fine chambering, however, and I shoot this chambering a lot, just not the rimless version in a double rifle. I had an old Army&Navy 375 H&H flanged magnum. I traded it off for a 500/450 W R, and though I like the WR, I wish I'd only bought the WR, and kept the 375 FL.

577ne, you should come on down to Houston when Rusty sets up another double rifle shoot later in the year! Lots of fun!

577ne, A J. Bury, congratulations, you've got a fine example of Belgian gunmaking of bygone years. BTW, 6-shot groups won't harm your bbls. but their heating up, and resulting stress and elongating, will play hell with their grouping together.

MacD37: Thanks for the comments. I do worry about the ejectors. You could argue that the ph
is there to save you, but I'd rather at least
theoretically be able to do it myself if need be.
Someone suggested sleeving the chamber, then rechambeing for the .375 H&H rimless. Have you any knowledge of this process? We used to live
Houston, and I've followed your shoot. I'd love
to come down for the next one-thanks.
Andre Martens: Do you have any brief history of
Jules Bury-years, Sr #s, etc.? Also wondering
about Bury's relation to Donckier, another Liege
maker. The Bury really is first class.

577ne, I'll do some research on Bury & Donckier but you'll have to wait 3 weeks for the outcome (vacations ). BTW, if I were you I wouldn't deface your fine rifle by rechambering and certainly not to a RIMLESS case (but maybe you meant BELTLESS) as that's what you have already. Also rimmed .375 (flanged as the British called them)aren't easy to find and the ballistics of both rounds are sufficiently different to call for re-regulating the bbls. = a costly proposition for what would still end up as an alteration of an original collector's piece.

Andre Martens: I misspoke (or mistyped)- I ment
rechamber to the .375 H&H rimmed. You're right about the regulation-the rimmed version is a hundred or so fps slower. The same someone
who suggested doing it thought the rimmed version
would have enhaunced value. Generally, I'd hate
to make such a drastic change. I asked thinking
maybe it couldn't be done. I would be grateful
if you can get some info on Bury. I've looked in a lot of places without any luck.

577ne, the sleeving is more properly called relineing the back of the chamber. Yes this can be done by simply counter boreing the chamber just deep enough to rid yourself of the belt portion of the chamber. Then a cylindrical liner is installed, and the chamber reamer very carefully run into the chamber to form the body dimentions of the case head of the flanged 375 H&H, and the spring loaded remless extractor removed from the extractor body. Then recut the extractor body to fit the flange of the 375 H&H flanged!

This is an easy job for a smith who knows what he's doing, but isn't for the "PLUMBER/PIPEFITTER" type smith.

If done properly, it will enhance your rifles value, but if not done properly, will be a disaster! JJ at Champlin's can convert it, but I personally would leave it alone, and just shoot it and enjoy it. The cost would be substantual!

Just keep the extractors very clean, and in good repair!