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one of us
posted
Has anyone considered building a 505 Gibs to shoot .510 bullets rather then .505s?
take care
smallfry
 
Posts: 2045 | Location: West most midwestern town. | Registered: 13 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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Smallfry.
Yep.. that's a 505/510 gibbs... and what's kinda funny is that if someone gets that, they might complain that factory ammo keyholes LOL But, pragmatically, it's an awesome compromise.. nostalgia and cheap bullets.

CH4D makes dies for it.. and it was one of the "finalists" for my .510 plinker.

jeffe

[ 11-28-2002, 19:27: Message edited by: jeffeosso ]
 
Posts: 40082 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Oldsarge
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At one time it would have been sheer economic Hell to accomplish but now, with cheap CZ actions, it is a wonder. ". . . nostalgia and cheap bullets" and awesome frontal area/inertia/raw power! Every once in a while I get tempted but I have managed to resist so far . . . so far!

[ 11-28-2002, 20:15: Message edited by: Oldsarge ]
 
Posts: 2690 | Location: Lakewood, CA. USA | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Robgunbuilder
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I thought about changing the bore to .510 on my Gibbs but deceided to improve the case instead. The nostalgia of the .505 kept me from that change. Bullets are readfily available .-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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btw Rob, how's your 505 comming along?
 
Posts: 711 | Location: Michigan , USA | Registered: 03 June 2000Reply With Quote
<BantengRaider>
posted
Robgunbuilder,

I am curious about building an exotic either the 505 Gibbs or 500 Jeffery bolt action rifle that under $.2000. Let say by using Ruger M 77 MK II action.

-Is it possible ?

Thanks
 
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One of Us
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BR, it would be cheaper to start with the CZ550 action, since with the Ruger you are starting off with $1200 invested. Let's take a stab at the total:

cz550 in 458 win mag: $650
barrel: $225
install barrel: $100
open rails, open boltface, adjust ramp, adjust follower: $400
2nd recoil lug on barrel: $75
muzzle brake: $125
inlet barrel and glass bed: $100
new recoil pad: $60
sights for new barrel: $150
bluing: $125

TOTAL: $2010

That assumes you can tolerate the original CZ stock. If not, add some more for a new stock.
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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500grains is pretty much dead on except

drop the sissyslots (grin)
get the blue for $85 (gunbroker.. the same guy that does ALL the dan wesson bluing)

restock to FIT you, if you do it, for $200 for a decent stick

about the same money

oh, yeah.. and if it kicks too much,
$50 mercury tube

jeffe
 
Posts: 40082 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
<BantengRaider>
posted
500grains, jeffeosso thanks for your details.

CZ would be fit on a budget rifle, but I haven't seen any of CZ rifle phisically eventhough Brno rifles are very common in my country.

I had an experience with ZKK 602 in 375 H&H. It shoots well, except its unsafe triggering system.

Exotic big bore calibers on commercial Mauser action is an awesome.
 
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Picture of Robgunbuilder
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BantengRaider- Yup a 505 Gibbs can be built on a budget. The CZ550 is also your best best although a 1917 Enfield will work also. You can get a fiberglass express stock from Mcmillan that will just about drop in. The biggest problem is the second recoil lug and inletting the stock for the lug.
My 505 Gibbs is just about done. I finished the stock and it came out really nice. So nice in fact that I chickened out and sent it off to a person who checkers professioanly. I wanted some fancy Fleur de Lise patterns and just could not bring myself to do it. I have checkered in the past and I don't enjoy it.
I blued the barreled action and all the small parts last weekend, so I'm just awaiting the stock. I'll post final pictures when it arrives.-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Talk to me about the recoil lug on the barrel. Never done one, never seen one.

Dovetail and silver solder?

Contour lug and TIG weld?

Or something else entirely?
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
<BantengRaider>
posted
Thanks Rob,

The Enfield action would give a classical look than CZ.
 
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<500 Nitro>
posted
smallfry,

Someone here in Australia has built quite a few 505/510's - they call it the 510 Wells over here. Most seem to have been built on the Enfield 1917 action.

From what I have seen of CURRENT Custom 505 Gibbs or 500 Jeff rifles built, the Older Brno CZ 602 Actions seem
to be the most popular - the fact they are a cheap (cost wise) Magnum Mauser that can handle a 505 Gibbs is one factor and it seems the gunsmiths don't mind working on them. Now of course it is the CZ 550.

Previously, before the CZ 602 Actions became popular for both500 Jeff and 505 Gibbs, the 500 Jeff's built were done on FN Actions - I have the first one done in Australia which was copied as close as possible from an Original 500 Jeff.

I have heared that the Enfield actions are more work than Brno 602's or CZ550's.

I would agree with 500 grains and jeffoso except IMHO, drop the muzzle break and add a mercury recoil reducer and get the gun PROPERLY stocked to fit YOU - for me it has a great bearing on how you feel the recoil.

I have a Custom 500 Jeffrey (FN Action) and an original 505 Gibbs, neither of which have muzzle breaks or recoil reducers and they are difficult to shoot with full hunting loads. I had the original 505 Gibbs restocked, partly so it fitted me better and partly so I wouldn't damage the original stock when hunting. I opted not to put a recoil reducer in the new stock and I'm glad I didn't.

Hope this helps and good luck with your project.

500 Nitro
 
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Picture of Nitroman
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Leftover,

I have only this to say regarding the TIG welding: I spoke to Old Man McGowen back when I first bought my .500 A-Sq and he told me he'd stopped being Alphins supplier since Alphin insisted on TIG'ing recoil lugs on the barrel. This bent many barrels.
Contact Robgunbuilder regarding his method. He has posted a complet, "How To", on his method awhile back. It is informative.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Robgunbuilder
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I have to state, that my method for building second recoil lugs comes from both exhaustive experimentation and from John Ricks. Basically, I take a 1 inch long by 1/2 inch piece of rectangular bar stock and with a specially made flycutter, match both the radius of the barrel and it's slope. I then drill one or two 6-48 holes in both the lug and the barrel(.100-.150 deep). I tap the barrel. The lug and the barrel are then tinned with force 44 solder using an air/ acetylene torch( not oxy/actelyene) and when the solder is molten screw the lug to the barrel and let the solder solidify. This is an extremely stong approach and the heat is only enough to melt the solder and will not effect the barrel. I've made lugs for several of the AR members here and they have all been pleased. One thing to remember is that when fitting such a barrel to a stock, glass bed the second lug first, then do the action lug and tang. Otherwise you will never get the action out of the stock.
I personally would not TIG weld a recoil lug on a barrel although as everyone knows, TC Contenders are built by TIG welding the monoblocks to the barrel. The slickest way it to machine the second lug into the barreled action along with the quarterrib and front sight band ala Butch Searcy, but then you need CNC Lathes.
If you need a second lug, you can probably talk me into making one for you.-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
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Is it really nesesary with a second barrel lug?

If so wich is the "smallest" calliber that needs one?

My 450Rigby project smith seems to think it's not nesesary but then again, he does mostly PPC bench rifles.
 
Posts: 240 | Location: Finland | Registered: 16 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Gotcha, Rob, and thanks.

I have no interest in anything that needs two lugs, but I am intensely interested in how things are done.
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Robgunbuilder
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My basic rule of thumb is anything over .375 gets a second lug. This is way cheaper than a split stock. even Fiberglass won't hold up to a 458 Ackley for long.-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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RGB,
You've got a PM...

How much to make me a second lug for a pacnor #6?

(doing the happy dance for a 500-jeffe-ry)
jeffe
 
Posts: 40082 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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