First, I apologize if there is a post on this somewhere, I have read through old posts on several boards for the last few days and have not definitively found my answer, which involves the best dies/ way to load for the 375 h&h, specifically.

The question I have concerns sizing, primarily. I have read many opinions on neck v full v partial etc. on various boards speaking generally, but it seems like the h&h is a little different in that it has so little of a shoulder and stretches so readily, that I want to address it specifically.

My desire is for consistent ammo and case life. I dont' think that neck v others will make that much a difference in accuracy for me..ie this is hunting rifle, not a target rifle, and I am not that good anymore for it to show.

However, it seems like neck or partial sizing would be best for case life. However, eventually, one must full length size, as I understand. And there is also the reliability factor. So that would seem to detract from consistency if you generally neck or partial size and then change for hunting ammo or due to cases not fitting anymore (velocity, accuracy, point of aim?).

But just full length resizing everytime would also seem to significantly shorten case life from what I have read.

So how do you all handle this for the h&h? I was going to go with the Lee collet die for general use, a forster ultra for seating, and then a redding body die for periodic use, based on some advice I found on an old post for a different cartridge. However, it appears that redding does not make a body die for the 375, nor an s bushing die either. So that is a problem. But maybe just a regular sizer is what would be best and just partial resize? How much would things change when the cases are full length sized?

Concerning the seater, maybe the ultra is overkill? I am shooting a winchester, so probably will have a very set COL due to the length of the box, so maybe the micrometer would be wasted, not sure.

Thanks!

The .375 H&H has enough shoulder to use for headspace/location of the loaded round. If you have any doubt look at a .35 Rem case or read the .400 Whelen threads.

I really like the Forster BR and especially the Ultra seating dies from a convenience of use standpoint. I do not think they get you a lot of extra needed accuracy with a .375. The Forster seaters do not crimp the round if you need it crimped so you would need a Lee Factory Crimp die.

I think any of the RCBS, Redding or Forster sizer dies would work well. In my experience the Forster dies are cut a little smaller on the ID. One of the best gadgets for setting a sizing die is the Hornady headspace gauge for cases that is attached to a dial caliper. This gauge will allow you to easily set your die to push back the shoulder only .001 for general shooting. If you hunt dangerous game you may want the shoulder pushed back a little more like .002 to .003 or more.

You could also post in reloading and get a lot of other opinions.

Thanks for the reply! I will post that over there and see what comes up.

What do you meant the Forster is cut a little smaller on the ID?

The Forster dies I have measured are tighter diametrally than the RCBS. Lee dies are very close to RCBS. Reddings tend to be about like RCBS too. Lyman's are about the worst and are even tighter than Forster. CH4D tend to to be a little tight too.

I like FL dies that size the case the least amount possible. The only problem is you have to measure the dies. There is not often the possibility of choosing a specific die unless you have multiple die sets.

quote:

Originally posted by Chad T:
Thanks for the reply! I will post that over there and see what comes up.

What do you meant the Forster is cut a little smaller on the ID?

Hmm, that does not sound like something I want...trying to minimize working the brass. Basically, looks like my best route at this point may be just getting a Redding set, then partial resize...try not to bump the shoulder back too much and just put up with what the expander ball does to the necks. I understand it tends to stretch them quite a bit, as well as introduce concentricity issues...ah well...

Chad,

I would simply set the FLD in the press so you feel "a small cam over". When I say "small" we are talking maybe a quarter of turn of the die at most past where the shell holder and ram meet.

Load 78 grains of Win 760 behind either the 300 grain Hornady Round Nose or 300 grain Sierra boat tail.

If your rifle does not shoot either of those loads then you have rifle/scope/mounts/bedding problem etc.


Mike

So would you run the ram to the top, then lower a bit and give it another quarter turn ?

quote:

Originally posted by Chad T:
So would you run the ram to the top, then lower
a bit and give it another quarter turn ?

I think being an Australian is causing us a problem or two

Just set you press up so you screw the die down until it hits the shell holder. Now if you resize with the die in that position you will not fully resize the case because of the "spring or stretch" in the press.

Hence, the reason for screwing the die in a little further. But it might be only an 1/8th of a turn. In other words a "feel thing"

As a sidenote, in my experience 375s shoot best with a few thou headspace, such as you will get with proper full length sizing.

If case life proves to be a problem (which it won't) then FLS the cases within a few days of shooting them.

Mike

Super, thanks!

quote:

However, it seems like neck or partial sizing would be best for case life. However, eventually, one must full length size, as I understand.

If you are partial full length sizing you will never have to full lenght resize as long as that brass is fired ONLY in that one particular rifle.

If you are neck sizing only you will eventually have to full lenght resize.

PFL is the way to go for "consistant" accuracy and longest case life.

I don't do it on loads I am using for dangerous game but I do on everything else.

.

I full length resize all of my cases. Have never tried just neck sizing. My .375 brass will usually go 3 or sometimes 4 reloads before it starts to separate in front of the belt.

I usually have and shoot at least 4 375H&H's so I full length resize every round. I just use standard RCBS dies as are almost all my dies. I usually get 3 reloadings out of a case. I load at least a grain under max in anything I load if it is that close. Haven't had any trouble with this method for over 60 years. Nothing I have shot has complained about underpowered loads. I strictly load for accuracy. Really care very little about any of the other aspects. I generally use heavy for caliber bullets but in a 375H&H I prefer 270 gr Partitions though I loaded some 300's once for Elephant. They were solids. Only Buffalo I ever killed was with a 270gr Partition. I believe people make reloading much more difficult than it really is.

You guys are not getting near as many reloads out of your brass as I am. Using PFL I can shoot 375 brass 10 or 12 times before I start to worry. I also use that little collet do dad to size all the way down to the belt.


.

Belted magnums headspace on the belt and not on the shoulder..If your just using it for hunting just full length resize and don't worry about feeding issues especially with DG if thats your quarry.

As with all belted cases you will extend case life by neck sizing to the shoulder and headspacing on the shoulder, but by how much depends on the chamber and at what point the reamer was wear wise..A tight chamber will of course take a lesser toll on brass.

Loading belted brass is no different than loading say a 30-06...Because I'm primarily a hunter and not a shooter per se, I use a standard set of RCBS dies.

To do what you are purposing would probably require that you send a die maker, I like RCBS, three cases fired in your rifle and get a set of dies based on your chamber, and thats not an expensive option. If you are a shooter that spends a lot of time on the bench and shoots hundreds or thousands of rounds, I would certainly order a set of custom dies, load relitively mild loads, anneal brass, and do what ever it takes to make the brass last.

I use my .375 and big bores for big game in No. America and Dangerous Game in Africa primarily and don't shoot them a whole lot compared to lesser calibers, so I full length resize cases that I hunt with as function is the goal. I can get 6 to 8 reloadings out of a belted case without a problem an if I were inclined to anneal every round or two I could get many more, but 375 brass is relitively cheap and I have a ton of it, so I don't bother..When I go hunting I always use new brass or perhaps once fired brass. I always run every round through the gun prior to a trip.

Just my perspective on your question.

Ray for sure has the right idea on this, assuming you are only talking about one rifle in .375H&H. Be sure to order a neck sizing die with the FL and SEAT dies.

Plan B could be to just buy a neck-sizing die and be sure you run all the completed cartridges through your magazine to be sure they feed before hunting.

Regards, Tim

Guys,

Thanks for all the responses, I have gotten so much advice from various sources, it can be dizzying but it is really appreciated and eye opening on how differently everyone approaches the same question.

After talking to several folks at Sinclair and Redding, as well as reading a lot of posts...right now I am leaning his way:

FL size dies, adjusted to push the shoulder back just .001 or .002. So a partial resize. May use competition shell holders to make this adjustment easier, or just use a comparator to make a more exact measurment.

On the seater, I can't see the reason to spend on a micrometer topped seater as my standard winchester box is going to determine seat length (correct?). But I have been advised to get the 'in line' style seater where the whole cartridge is captured by a sleeve during the seating process to ensure bullets don't get turned during the seat process. This seems like a good idea with a long case like a 375.

This is not a target gun, obviously, so 1000's of rounds a year is not the goal. However, when I previously was getting ready to go to Africa (failed trip), I shot probably 100 rounds a month in practice for 6 months or so, give or take, and that's probably where I want to get to, but considering my current life (time and money) that might be optimistic.

I was advised this process would give me consistency (brass is sized the same way every time until it gets tossed) and good case life.

Sound sound?

BTW, bullet wise, right now, I am looking at a lighter flat shooter for NA game etc (260 accubond is top choice, but also 250 TTSX or GMX look good if the accubond won't shoot). If I ever get a chance at Africa again, I will work up a 300 load (Partition, TSX, A-Frame).

quote:

FL size dies, adjusted to push the shoulder back just .001 or .002. So a partial resize. May use competition shell holders to make this adjustment easier, or just use a comparator to make a more exact measurment.

Your headed in the right direction!



A set of "Skips Die Shims" ( http://www.sinclairintl.com/re...8-14--prod33197.aspx ) would be much cheaper and more useful than the competition shell holders.....especially for minor tweaking of bullet seating depth....not so necessary on the big bores truthfully.

I have several sets and use 'em for all kind of stuff!

Whoa, those look a lot easier to use (and cheaper!) than the competition shell holders! Plus I could use them when I start loading for my son's 270. So if these exist, why would anyone use the competition shell holders? Am I missing something?

Also, how useful do you all think the inline style seaters are vs a standard seater? I ask because someone (at Sinclair) suggested I use the Forster benchrest (not the ultra with the micrometer) seater because it captures the bullet and case throughout the operation and make sure it all goes together straight. However, another guy told (at Sinclair) suggested it would not make much difference (for benchresters, yes, but prolly 1/10 of an inch or something). The Regular redding set is 30 bucks cheaper than the Forster set with the better seater, so if it's like putting speed rated tires on a Camry, I'd rather save the money for bullets and powder.

BTW, speaking of that....local store has NOTHING...no powder, bullets, primers...that I can use. Unbelievable. Things sure have changed since the last time I was doing this...which wasn't THAT long ago, but apparently long enough!

there are cheaper ways to do these things and they are just as accurate..

One thing that bothers me in your quest is you need to adopt the KISS principle, and not let some make a big deal out of your hunting rifle, since it is not a bench rest gun and much of what I read is just fun and games, and if that blows one skirt up then so be it, and thats a good thing.

Take a match blacken the neck, then run it through the die half way, try it in your rifle, if it won't go then take the case down a tad more and try it, keep on until it fits snug, then take it down just a tad more until the bolt closes comfortable and not so tight as feed and function are more important. Your die is now properly set, even a custom die if you get one, but a std die works just fine..

Do this and trim cases as needed, and a lot of that depends mostly on how hot your loads are btw.

Annealing brass every time is the way to make it last almost forever, its a pain, and I don't do it except on some rare hard to find brass in rare calibers.

At some point you may have to full length resize after x number of firings, it just happens.

When you go hunting keep in mind that hunts are not cheap, so useing new unfired brass is the best option without a doubt, run them in the die to round out the necks only, and you may or may not want to trim them at this point, I don't as I wait until I have fired the new stuff then trim.

To find your seating depth is usually determined by your magazine, especially in factory rifles as the throat is usually longer than the magazine anyway so it advise usually wasted. but to get your chamber and bullet to match to x number of mm between the lands and the bullet for claimed accuracy and this is sometimes a fallacy also..I follow these steps and it beats spending dollars on the many gimmicks out there.

Using a wood dowell of roughly 28 to 30 inches and of a close diameter of you bore. push it in the bore at the crown until it meets the closed boltface, then make a mark on the dowell at the crown..Now put a bullet (bullet only) in the throat and use a 12 inch piece of dowell to ever so lightly snug the bullet in the lands, now push the original dowell in until it just touches the bullet point, and once again mark on the dowell at the barrels crown. Now measure the distance between the two marks with a caliper. That will give your bullet a perfect fit or overal proper length, BUT now you want to seat the bullet several thousands deeper in your case so the bullet won't stick and pull out of the case if you unload a live round. You can tweek the depth for getting your best accuracy, but I wouldn't bother with a .375 that shot to my expectations. Works perfect and dowells arem dirt cheap...you have to do this with each change of bullet manufacture, or bullet weight or shape as they all go in to the lands or throat at different measurements.

For a hunting rifle you may just chose to seat the bullet according to what fits easily in the magazine box and works..or at factory specs to simplify the whole thing..If the gun shoots good groups then you don't need all the niceties mentioned.

Again, keep it simple. Its not complicated unless you make it so. It only is complicated when trying to squeeze every drop of accuracy out of a bench rest or varmint rifle IMO.

Ray,

Thanks for the post, great advice, I appreciate it very much, as well as the advice and discussion from everyone. It's been really helpful, and I think I am finally there, at least on this point. Now I just need to find some components to load with!