I have a 1x4 Leupold that I want to try on my 375 so I bought a set of Talley QR rings and bases. I put the bases on my receiver and snugged them in place, (not torqued) and my alignment tools line up exactly point to point so I'm really happy with that.

My question is should I go ahead and do a light lapping on the inside of the rings, or is the finish of the Talley's OK as is? They feel smooth.

Secondly, I have the one piece bottom metal on my M70 and it supposedly takes three down and 1 in the chamber. The fourth round is very stiff to load into the magazine and hard to strip off of the top of the stack. Is there any way to get ANY (1/16") more room? Thinner follower, etc.?

Tertiary, The extractor is black in color, is this the cast one or are the Classic, Safari Express models made differently?

Fjold,

No need to lap Talley rings.

Replace the magazine spring with one from Wisner. I was able to get four rounds down in my .375H&H (three-piece bottom metal) with just that one change.

George

You've spent big bucks for your TALLEY RINGS now get a 1 inch or 30mm bar and lap the rings in place. Without doing this you run the risk of torqing the action. When your finished leave some lapping compound on the insides of the rings, then mount your scope. It won't ever again go anywhere. Follow this advice!-Rob

No need to lap Talley rings.

It does not matter how well Talley rings are made the eak link in the chain will be the action.

Mike

Lapping rings is for lining up the holes in the rings as they are attached to the bases, which are screwed to the action. THink about that one. It does not matter how well the rings and bases are made if the holes in the action are not perfectly aligned AND just as importantly, but rarely considered by most people, whay is the relationsship between the front and rear bridges. Manufacturing tolerances allow your scope point up or down in relation to the bore. Lapping gets the holes in the rings closer to parrallel (thereby reducing stress). It may or not make the holes in the rings closer to bore line, but ir reduces the tnedency to "kink" the scope, which is a good thing every time.

you should also lap the rings to ensure that tightening them doesn't crush the scope.

Yes, I have personally done that... and it was with a set of Talley rings.

So, take your time, do it right and lap the rings to ensure the best fit possible. it will ensure that you don't have to have a new scope refinished (like i did )

I have seen a number of over lapped rings, you are simply enlarging the rings and that may or may not make it hard to properly tighten the scope in the rings..If I lap it is real lightly, I mean real lightly, only for burrs on the edges. As usual many over do it, much the same as outside and/or inside neck reaming cases when shooting a factory chamber....

If you crush a scope with Talleys its because you are putting too much torque on those Torque screws..and all the lapping by hand won't cure improper installation...

Scope lapping tooling has only been on the market for a reletively short time and we got along fine without it for many years...

Leaving lapping compound in your scope rings is a good way to scrape up a scope IMO...I would use rubber cement or something less gritty...hell river sand would work also, thats what Finn Aagard used, but his stuff looked like it had been rode hard and put up wet for the most part......

then how many ft/lbs of torque should they have? I don't have a torque wrench that small.



Are the ring halves not supposed to touch on the top of the scope?

The 1200 grit lapping garnet usually doesn't mar a scope and I guarantee you that scope won't go anywhere under recoil even from a big kicker. My most important concern is that the scope not move and I really don't care if it's pristine finish is marred or not. Inch/lb torque wrenches are readily available and I typically torque the screws to about 15. Follow the manufacturers reccomendations if available.-Rob