I also posted this over on the southpaw forum.

I'm starting my LH 375 H&H project. I'm planning to build a classic style safari rifle and need some opinions. The rifle will be wood stocked (probably AI) and blued (matt finish) with a barrel band, express sights, ebony tipped stock etc.

First of all, should I go SS or CM? I'm planning to keep the rifle <9 lbs. and it'll be blued anyway. So my thoughts are to go with chrome moly. I plan to have the bolt handle checkered as well as a few more gunsmithing chores and figure the CM will be easier to work with and after all the work is done, I'll send it out for bluing. Also, I might be off base, but I suspect that a CM action might cycle a little "slicker" then a stainless action (less galling potential etc.)

Secondly, when I order up the action, I'm considering making it a barreled action with a MRC barrel. It would save a step in the building process. Everything I hear about MRC barrels has been good and I don't think I'd gain anything by going with a barrel from somewhere else. Anyone think differently? How about contour, twist and length? I'm thinking a 24" #5 contour with a 1:12 twist.

Some of the responses lead me to rethink my finished weight. What weight is "typical" for a safari 375 H&H? Typical barrel contour? Should I consider 9.5- 10.5 lbs as a reasonable weight?

I haul around a weatherby accumark that weighs about 10.5 with scope and sling, and I don't seem to have a problem dealing with the weight.

Would I be happier with a #4 contour? I just don't want a thin-for-caliber barrel.

I dont' know what the delivery status on their actions? I have two of the long actions and they made very nice 404 Jeffery rifles.

Take your pick on which action you wish to use. IF you absolutely want a truly blued action you will need to go with the CM but on the other hand you can go with the SS. This is what I use and I put on a ceramic finish that very closly mimics blued steel and is far more durable. The gauling is not so much of a problem with SS as some people make it out to be.

Rhys,what ceramic finish do you use&how difficult to apply?thanks,kim

Gsganzer,

I am a lefty too. I would pick the long action, which is of course, "375H&H length".

The lefty long action that I have came very true according to my gunsmith. Kinda rough though.

I would shoot for a finished weight of 8 1/2lbs w/o scope or mounts. This will work out to between 9lbs and a bit and 9 1/2lbs with scope and mounts depending on scope and mount selection.

You could go lighter, nothing would be better than 1/4 or 1/2lbs shved off if it is from the rear end of the rifle and not the muzzle end, imo. No recoil or shooting reason to go heavier, and after hours of carrying, in the heat, it can wear on you. BTW, my 375H&H weighs in at 8 3/4lbs bare.

JPK

GSGANZER:

You might consider a Granite Mountain Arms barreled action. I know they make a left hand version.

www.granitemountainarms.com

Good luck with your project.

GMA is a very premium, excellent quality action. Very expensive to go along with the very real quality. If this is the custom gun of a lifetime, one of those that you will keep forever, it is worth considering.

JPK

I use a product in the shop called ceracoat. It's not bad if you have the equipment. All metal must be blasted to 120 grit I use silicon carbide, then it is mixed as a 2 part solution, sprayed on and then baked. It holds up far better than any of the molly/teflon based finishes.

As you are asking for opinions...

I would recommend having MRC install their own barrel. The two I've had were both accurate and not prone to foul much. My tastes lie on the light side for barrels as you can always add weight to the stock. However, I don't think a #5 in .375 won't be "thin for caliber".

I will echo JPK's statement that the action I received was disappointingly rough but it's certainly accurate (probably "true" like JPKs). It's a shame they don't seem to put a finer touch on their product because the action is very well designed.

MRC offers a good place to start that won't necessarily require significant modifications but probably will need some TLC.

Rhys,dont have any equipment-going on a BR gun.are there any spray-on finishes easy to apply?thanks

I think the MRC barrels a great. My 376 STeyr has a 23" MRC #4 barrel. The advertised weight of the barrel is 4# and a #5 is listed at 5#. I think the number 4 taper looks great on my rifle. You can see it on the Serengeti Rifles and Stocks. I think it is under stocks under bare. It shoots great and it is a fast barrel as I chronograph factory 270gr Hornady ammo at about 2695 FPS which is faster than advertised. All their barrels are hand lapped. I also have a 300WSM that has a Montana Arms barrel and the test target from Serengeti is .385 for three shots. With a long action MRC and #4 barrel you should have about 6-3/4 to 7lbs plus the stock, scope, mounts, ammo, sling and sites if you have them. I think it would end up at 9-1/4 pounds or a little more.

Army Aviator,

Which MRC barrels did you get, CM or SS? I got a 30cal No3 contour and it fouls like crazy. Looked at it with the Hawkeye Borescope & it is rough. Another friend also got a CM 30cal barrel & it fouls like crazy too although it has not been bore scoped. I had been led to believe they were hand lapped too but no way these were lapped at all, lots & lots of machine marks and quite deep.

When I searched the comments on MRC barrels most had the stainless versions. Maybe they are better but if you want Chrome Moly I'd steer away & get a Walther. (In the end I had to get my MRC fire lapped) Although I don't have one yet when I bore scoped them the std barrel had a finish as good as my new Lilja .25 cal blank.

Regards
JohnT