I purchased my cz 550 in .375 about five months ago..The trigger does have a bit of creep but in the set position it is sweet.I was able to use the set position to take a nice muley buck a week ago ..MIne has the american stock but it does have one crossbolt towards the rear..The website does not show any ..The only thing I dont like about it is the grip is a little uncomfortable .Slightly out of line for my hands I guess.Still shoots nice though..I figured it was a good next step from my /06..

Well, I machined a fitting screw driver today, and detached wood and steel.

The creeping trigger was resolved very easily...just adjust the "before" travel of the trigger to zero, by turning the adjustment screw all the way to the right. I've got the crispiest trigger I've ever felt, not the lightest, but there is adjustment for that too. In fact I'll probably make it a bit heavier. I'll try to figure out how to dismantle/disable the set trigger and be done with it, the trigger is good enough as is.

I've put the barreled action in the wood without screws, and I got not get any movement of the action in the stock from front to back. Pushing down on the barrel where the wood ends, made the back come up but since they are touching when the screws are tight, that is probably not a big deal.

I'm beginning to understand the bedding a bit now. I could see the F-block/barrel lug being bedded to make sure everything is tight, and around where the action is screwed into the stock...but I'm a bit intimidated by the job as a whole...maybe I'll just have it done.

There is a metal plate glued in, just behind the first actions screw (the one closest to the barrel)..is that standard? I guess this is an attempt to make the hole that is machined in the wood fit to the action?

The action is indeed a bit rough, OK, raly rough, I had my .300 WM next to it today, for stock oiling purposes, and the difference is enormous.

Grip is not optimal, I could have done with a bit of palm swell...but with the trigger taken care of I'm even more eager to shoot it!

Frans

I have a hogs back .375 H&H cz and all I would do is get it bedded, unless you want all the trimming barrel band etc. But the .375 H&H does not kick enough that the swivel in the forend will be a problem.

And unless you're real lucky have the trigger adjusted - I know it's got a single set but I like the unset trigger to be acceptable as well. The foresight bead should be replaced with a bigger one if you plan to use it in anger.
Charlie

cducat is right about the sight. I am having Jim Dubell rebuild my front sight blades (and spares) with ivory beads of sufficient size.
Once regulated I will have scroll cutter put a gold triangle on the standing sight for speeed in aiming.
Get a better bolt handle welded on. The hole in the end of the factory knob is quite annoying. You could also just have the hole filled in.
don't get a barrel band for the front sling swivel. The british developed those because their foreends are so short. The CZ foreend is long enough that you won't bark your hand. You could have the female portions of the Michael's of Oregon quick release sling swivel assemblies installed where the present studs are for a trimmer appearance. I use those on some of my rifles because it only takes a second to take the sling off, and there is nothing left to catch on anything.
As cducat also mentioned, get the trigger worked on. Lon Paul at Tanglewood Gun Shop in Mountain Center, CA has an excellent reputation. Any good trigger smith should be able to clean it up for you.
The CZ's in 375 are pretty heavy, so you will get tired carrying it, but it won't kick much at all.
JCN

All the guys that posted a reply gave you very good information. I have two CZ's one a 458 Lott that got an extensive amount of gunsmith work done to it and a 375 H&H.

The work you may consider for the rifle will depend first on what style stock you purchase ie European or American style. I have American Fancy Stocks on both of mine.. as I feel the American style stock works better for my line of vision with a scope mounted and the CZ fancy stock are farily nice looking.

For my 375 I had it bedded and reinforced with one crossbolt. I decided I would test the rifle before doing anything else...well the rifle shot so good I decided to forgo additional work to the rifle ! I used the 375 H&H in Africa to hunt plains game (or in case we ran into Buffalo while chasing plains game) and carried the Lott of Buffalo...Both rifles performed very well and I am please with my CZ's.

As JCN mentioned, the CZ 375 has very little noticeable recoil and the crossbolt may not be necessary...I just like the insurance! I see no need for the barrel band swivel and if you do decided to go that route be prepared to have the gun reblued as well!

My Lott had the whole works done to it by Roger Ferrell and I am very happy with the work he did. While in Africa I had two PH who wanted to take a look at my Lott. I ran into a couple younger PH's who use the Lott and it seems to be favored among PH's I ran into. One of the PH's took the time to go over the rifle extensively, feeding rounds and working the action. He was very impressed with Roger's work and noticed how smooth the feeding and cycling worked.

Good luck with your new acquisition!

The barrel band swivel has an additional advantage of dropping the muzzle below your ear giving you a smaller chance of getting hung up in the jess. I have it on all my dedicated African rifles except the .404 and that's coming. Since you will be shooting mostly off sticks or leaning against trees and such, wrapping yourself up in the sling isn't quite the advantage there that it is here. Respectfully disagreeing with JCN, I'd put it on, though he is correct that the .375 doesn't kick enough to catch your hand with a normal American stock. My Alaskan .375 has the sling swivel in the forend.

Bedding is a necessity. Yes, cross-bolts look cool but are overkill on a .375. As to new sights, I had my smith install a Talley rear peep into the rear bridge. It works like a charm on my .450 Rigby. Frankly, I just love peep sights, anyway. Get all the internals polished to mirror smoothness then apply a product called Gun Juice that seals the pores of the metal and provides a long-lasting dry lubricant. Put it down the barrel, too, it can add another 100 fps to your velocity and will make it shoot even better. After that, all you'll need to do is sell off every other rifle you own!

Hey jjs when do we get pics of the .458 lott?

I bought one about 6-7 weeks ago and love it. All I have done so far is shoot it I agree JCN the bolt handle has to go or at least welded up. My rifle is rough compared to some I own. In fairness they are mmuch older and have had a number of years to smooth out. The set trigger is great for target work and fun. I would figure some trigger work to your cost though.

Buy it and you will not be sorry.

See? What did I tell yer? One Planet, One Rifle!

Sarge

The cz .375 is a real gem of a rifle...I have mounted a 1-4 leupold on mine and it is sighted in for 300 gr Hornady RN's. I like it so much and it recoils so little that I have actually thought of selling off my Ruger 30/06 and purchasing a second cz .375 H&H and sighting it in exclusively for 235 gr or 250 gr bullets and using that as my 30/06. I feel that the .375 is like a bigger version of a 30/06 and can be used for the same game with superior results

I got mine (in .416 Ribgy) about two weeks ago. I had to order brass in the US, and can't get the Hornady RN is wanted for plinking anywhere (delivery times between 6-8 months, welcome to Canada), so I haven't loaded ammo for it, and consequently have not shot it yet.

The trigger has a bit of creep..the trigger on gun #2 I tried in the shop had a looot of creep. Apparently the travel for and after the shot can be adjusted (?) but I haven't found a screwdrived yet to properly fit the odd screws (and I don't want to rough them up with too small screwdrivers).

The action is on the rough side, it binds when pushing forward (there is a little spring loaded thingy to be pushed out of the way there), and it binds when the fore end of the action is pushed the last little bit. The bolt won't slide down when the rifle is held vertical, with the bolt open.

The bolt handle..well..that has been mentioned before.

The wood looks actually rather good, for a rifle this cheap.

Front bead...a bit small..but I'm not replacing until I tried.

Bedding, etc...I'm still in doubt...some say do it, others tell me no. I'll try to check the internal fits of crossbolt and set-up with the screw on the barrel. If I find *any* movement I guess i'll try the bedding thing.

Overall...I'm pretty happy so far...now I can only hope it shoots straight.

Frans

Hey Frans,
It will shoot straight.
For a 416 Rigby, you might want to go ahead and get it bedded.
Send it to Bill Leeper for a polish job, and replacement of the bolt handle.
He can re cut the front sight dovetail so you can use NECG front sights like this: