Who would you use to rechamber 375 to the 375 weatherby?

Tip Burns....

www.canyonsportingarms.com

If you "have to do it", Tip does great work.

That said, I would not bother as the rewards are not worth the $$.

Keith

quote:

Originally posted by Hog Killer:
If you "have to do it", Tip does great work.

That said, I would not bother as the rewards are not worth the $$.

Keith

Keith,
What kind of velocity gains have you seen?

quote:

Originally posted by Blacktailer:

quote:

Originally posted by Hog Killer:
If you "have to do it", Tip does great work.

That said, I would not bother as the rewards are not worth the $$.

Keith

Keith,
What kind of velocity gains have you seen?

BT, I have not done this rechamber job. But just look at the posted velocities of both. I would also not do an AI rechambering either. You just burn more powder with a little return. Plus you have to buy na new die set at a higher price point.

If a bigger case is needed then get a bigger case. Don't just "let the seams out a little". That or go for a bigger bore.

Just my 2 cents.

Keith

Simmons Gunsmiths in Olathe, KS did mine. They did a good job. Been 20 years ago though.

I have the h&h, the RUM,and the ruger I was just thinking I would have them all. I love my h&h been to Africa several times and the RUM the last 2 trips. It is a big step up from my h&h. That is not saying it is better but hits much harder IMO. Do you have to have one, no but heck I don't have to have many of the guns I have just like trying things out.

Very cool project to have em all!

I don't know anyone to recomend in your area, but the same question still remains. WHY??

If the .375H&H is not enough, than the .375Wea is not going to be enough either.

If you need more reach and power and keep the caliber have the .378Wea.

If you need more stopping power with good reach have any of the .416's Rem./Rig./Wea.

If you still need more stopping power have the .458 Lott and bigger


Pyzda

WHY? There is a big difference between wants and needs. I could give a rats ass if the 378 weatherby is stronger I don't want one. I don't just want one gun it is boring.If not you could just buy a 416 rigby and no other guns what fun would that be.another answer could be why have a 375 H&H when you can have a 375 weatherby? you can shoot either in the gun so I could say it is much more versatile. answer Why is not a very good question

Why? To use 350-grainers is one reason.

I have a .375 Weatherby, a rechambered 24" Bbl.
was .375 H&H. I know this is blashemy but I am not impressed with the H&H.
The Wby. with my favorite handloads will put a 260GR. Nosler Accubond at just under 3000 FPS into 3-shot 1.5" groups at 200 yards all day long and the recoil is not that much more than the H&H. Given that I can and do shoot H&H rounds in this rifle with about a 100 FPS loss in velocity, I see no reason to choose the H&H over the Wby. other than its history.

I have a .375-.358STA (not a ton of difference from a .375 Weatherby) and have owned a few .375 H&H's. I also own a .375 RUM. My .375-.358STA shoots 250gr Sierra's at 3080fps which is considerably faster than any H&H I've ever owned. Like 200+fps faster. It really isn't far off the performance of the .375 RUM.

I say go for it.

I have both (375 H&H and the Weatherby). I have chrono'd both. Factory Weatherby fodder (300 NP,s) shoot 2800 FPS @ 90F; 12' from the muzzle.
I can reload 300 TSX's to 2570 in the H&H.
I like both however at a +200FPS difference, I believe there is a case for the Weatherby in some situations.
I think I might take the H&H to Africa but my stainless plastic fantastic Mod 70 Weatherby to Alaska to shoot big bears.
It is basically a 100 yard stronger cartridge. I have application for both.
Although most do not consider it prudent. I would not hesitate to shoot a big brown bear at +200 yards with complete confidence.
I have popped the lesser mountain grizzly in Alaska at a far greater distance.
Practice, practice practice....

Don't bother with it. The higher velocity of the .375 Weatherby doesn't add much killing power over the H&H and only adds about 40 yards to the PBR. Out to 300 yards there is little difference unless you plan on shooting eland or lion out to 400 yards. I don't think that would be a real good idea though. If you're looking for more power than a .375 H&H magnum, buy yourself a nice .416 RM, 404 Jeffery or 450/400. I think you'd fall in love with the 450/400 as it will do the job on anything with little fuss. Not quite as flat shooting as the .375's but the normal hunting ranges of large and dangerous game is usually not out past 100 meters. Just my thoughts for the moment.

Thanks,

jfm

There is absolutly no down side to the 375 wby. It shoots flatter and hits harder than the 375HH, period. I've used the 375 wby for years hear in Alaska and I can't find a good reason not to rechamber a 375HH to it. It simply gives you more options. I've always looked at it this way, it's still a 375HH if you choose to load it as such but if you want more,and 200fps is more, you have it.

Well one reason for owning it is its the most versatile bigbore ever made, since it can use the same ammo as the 375 H&H the'most versatile bigbore' ever made. Not to mention it will run that factory ammo (you can find at every small town in africa and alaska etc ad nauseum) at even lower pressures than the original H&H does. So that's a plus for low pressures/more power and also the added advantage of being a weatherby it pisses H&H owners a little, which is never a bad thing either

OK so in your typical pre 64 M70 is this just a matter of running a Wby reamer up the spout or would you have to mess with the feed rails?

I had my stainless classic Mod 70 375 H&H reamed to 375 Wea. Did not mess with anything other than the chamber. Feeds great! Obviously not a pre 64. I would think twice about altering a pre 64 unless you plan on keeping indefinitely. Probably would hurt the resale value.

quote:

Originally posted by Blacktailer:
OK so in your typical pre 64 M70 is this just a matter of running a Wby reamer up the spout or would you have to mess with the feed rails?

quote:

Originally posted by eezridr:
I had my stainless classic Mod 70 375 H&H reamed to 375 Wea. Did not mess with anything other than the chamber. Feeds great! Obviously not a pre 64. I would think twice about altering a pre 64 unless you plan on keeping indefinitely. Probably would hurt the resale value.

quote:

Originally posted by Blacktailer:
OK so in your typical pre 64 M70 is this just a matter of running a Wby reamer up the spout or would you have to mess with the feed rails?

Not worried. My policy is to never sell guns.

Does anybody know if the fireformed .375 wby fron H+H brass would be the correct length? I assume it would but want to be sure

It works just fine (but you'll never have to trim.) I found Remington brass was longest, but I don't like it long term.

If you want to do it, go for it. I had an extra barrel made up for my project. RIP's gunsmith in Kentucky does great work. If he does not have a reamer, you can borrow mine for the project. The brass is pretty inexpensive straight from Norma, or even if it comes in a "Weatherby" box.

I liked the conversion because I got the same external ballistics as with a 30-06. Recoil was not too bad, as I recall.

For forming brass, I would give the Hornady basic brass a try, It should be plenty long.

Most important thing to remember is to anneal cases during each loading cycle.

Six boxes of factory brass should get you through a couple of lifetimes.

Why do it? Why not? Some schmo waved money in my face during some lean times, so I sold mine. I plan to build another soon.

quote:

Originally posted by Blacktailer:
OK so in your typical pre 64 M70 is this just a matter of running a Wby reamer up the spout or would you have to mess with the feed rails?

On 3 Pre-64s there was no magazine work necessary. As I recall I lost one round of capacity, but not sure on that as it was years ago.
Good cartridge, is it worth it, don't know, personal opinions enter in .

quote:

Originally posted by eezridr:
I had my stainless classic Mod 70 375 H&H reamed to 375 Wea. Did not mess with anything other than the chamber. Feeds great! Obviously not a pre 64. I would think twice about altering a pre 64 unless you plan on keeping indefinitely. Probably would hurt the resale value.

quote:

Originally posted by Blacktailer:
OK so in your typical pre 64 M70 is this just a matter of running a Wby reamer up the spout or would you have to mess with the feed rails?

Yes, it will reduce the value of a Pre-64

I have a 375 Weatherby in a Rem XCR II and I like it a lot. Recoil is significantly sharper in my 7 3/8 lb rifle (with scope) shooting 375 Weatherby compared to shooting 375 H&H.

I wouldn't do it to a pre-64 M70

Case length, I did use reformed Win. & Rem H&H
brass. The OAL after fire forming is shorter to the point that with the volume of powder and pressures I became worried about flash cutting and carbon buildup at the chamber neck.
I now only use Weatherby Brass or any basic brass that can be fire formed to the correct length.

Blowing out the factory .375 H&H brass (2.850" max brass length) to .375 Wby shortens the neck by about .020"
So you end up with brass that is about .030" shorter than the max brass length of 2.860" for the .375 Wby,
and all that shortening occurs in the neck area.

As lawndart mentioned, Hornady basic cylindrical with just an "H" for a headstamp is a good way to make your own .375 Wby brass at proper trim-to length of 2.850".
Just a one-pass size of the cylindrical brass in the FL size die,
trim it down to 2.850", then anneal,
then load and shoot.

Here is that brass from the reloading page:
On left is a nickled .375 H&H factory load by Remington (300-grain Swift A-Frame), second from left is the Weatherby factory load (300-grain Nosler Partition),
and the rest are Hornady basic neck down then home annealed with propane torch and pan of water:



The properly headstamped .375 Wby brass by Norma has a greater capacity than any you can make.
I now stick to Norma .375 Wby with proper headstamp for consistency, no load juggling for different length and lesser capacity brass with the homemade stuff.
It is still great to be able to fire any factory .375 H&H load in the .375 Wby, in a pinch.

The Pre-64 M70 box on a .375 H&H is slightly shorter and wider than the M70 Classic box of 1990, and will hold 4 down in .375 H&H.
The Pre-64 M70 is really a slick feeder as a .375 H&H.
The Pre-64 M70 .375 H&H will need feed work and will hold only 3 down in the box in .375 Wby.
The M70 Classic of 1990 will hold three of the .375 Wby in the box and feed them well with no extra work.

The CZ 550 Magnum is also a simple rechamber job to convert from .375 H&H to .375 Wby.
The .375 Wby reamer cleans up the .375 H&H chamber.
Not so with a .375 RUM.
The .375 RUM boltface-to-neck-1 length is shorter than the .375 H&H boltface-to-neck-1 distance,
so you have to set the barrel back to clean up the .375 H&H shoulder area.
No such problem with the .375 Wby conversion.

If you already were going to have a double rifle in 470 or a 416 bolt rifle, would you still need a 375 Weatherby? Else with a 375 weatherby, would you still need a 416 rem?

As I cannot afford Bieb's .378 Weatherby, does anyone know what speeds they are getting from a 250 TTSX in the .375 Weatherby vice the H&H?

I'd like to make my CZ 550 a 500 yard elk rifle. Right now my go to load is 73.5 grains of R15, using the 270 TSX, but I'm only getting 2600 fps, and I don't know that the Barnes will open at say 400 yards.

quote:

Originally posted by Lee Woiteshek:
As I cannot afford Bieb's .378 Weatherby, does anyone know what speeds they are getting from a 250 TTSX in the .375 Weatherby vice the H&H?

I'd like to make my CZ 550 a 500 yard elk rifle. Right now my go to load is 73.5 grains of R15, using the 270 TSX, but I'm only getting 2600 fps, and I don't know that the Barnes will open at say 400 yards.

2825 fps w/ .375 Wby rechambered Brno / 78 gr RL-15

Why not have it re-chambered to .375-.404 JS?

quote:

Originally posted by Lee Woiteshek:
As I cannot afford Bieb's .378 Weatherby, does anyone know what speeds they are getting from a 250 TTSX in the .375 Weatherby vice the H&H?

I'd like to make my CZ 550 a 500 yard elk rifle. Right now my go to load is 73.5 grains of R15, using the 270 TSX, but I'm only getting 2600 fps, and I don't know that the Barnes will open at say 400 yards.

Get closer------------

Gerryb,

Just so happens that Tip Burns has a 375 Weatherby barrel of mine. It came off of a pre 64 action that was once a 375 H&H.

I would be interested in selling it.

I have an Ackley Improved. It would seem much simpler to reload a cartridge without that ridiculous shoulder to deal with setting dies up.

If the velocity is important to you get the Weatherby. I have mentioned I own both and reload quite a bit for both. My rifles have their own personalities. the Kimber 89 375 H&H is a slow 375. I have trouble getting over 2550 FPS with a 300 gr pill which is OK because that is what it was designed to deliver. It is a accurate rifle!!
My Weatherby is a "fast" rifle. a Winchester 70 stainless classic with a 24" tube that will push the same bullet right at 2800 fps.
As for the shoulders, it makes no difference to me as long as the gun will shoot straight. One thing I have noticed over the years is the Weatherby case seem to stretch very little. I do not know if that is due to the shoulder or not.
When reloading I use about 16 more grains of powder in the Weatherby to get that extra 250 FPS. I do not care as that incremental cost is not much to me.
I like both of them. The Kimber is a nice looking rifle, The 375 Weatherby (Mod 70 stainless) is a "beater", made for hunting is Alaska with a 1/4" shorter LOP for when wearing heavier clothes.
Trying to decide which one I may put in a case to take with me to Zim in July. Probably the one they I may be shooting best...Have 6 more months to shoot and decide.

EZ

Thanks Bnagel.

Cross L, I've only killed two elk, both on guided hunts. Both have been in excess of 350 yards. That was as close as we were going to get with the guide's client (who sounds like a bulldozer in the woods).

My .375 H&H is my plan B gun, only to be used if I break my primary, a .338 Win Mag. While my experience is limited, I've seen many more elk at 500 yards than 15.

I've learned both with elk, and whitetail bucks that you sometimes have to take the shot you have and not the shot you want.