Working now with my 450Nitro single and am wondering,what is the proper range to sight in the iron sights 75',50' or closer,have a steel tube weaver 3x on it and is holding up well so far and have it sighted in at 100yards dead on,this is with Supreme's 480 grain load,should i change it?

Dave,
You have your scope sighted just right. Don't change it.

Your iron sights ought to be zeroed at 50 yards, IMHO. That way, you will probably be back on at 100 yards, with the bullet topping out around 75 yards. From 0 to 100 yards, the bullet will be approximately +/- the height of the front sight bead above the center of bore, no more, with 450 NE ballistics.

But you must decide whether you want a "combat bead" (a coarse bead hold with the bullet shooting to the center of the front sight bead with the bead covering the target) or a "target bead" with the bullets hitting at the top edge of the bead, with that edge held precisely on the desired impact point.

When you have decided this, you are ready to begin adjusting, drifting, filing, and/or switching front beads for the final zero with the chosen load. Be consistent in how the gun is held, so as to duplicate field shooting mechanics for the final zero.

So what sort of sight do you have?

A shallow V rear and a round bead?

A peep rear and a round bead front or square post?

A flat rear with square notch and square front post?

All of these are excellent, and I would prefer them all zeroed target style at 50 yards, unless I had a really big front bead and an aperature/peep rear, then I might go combat style zero at 50 yards, but maybe 25 yards, depending on the expected uses for the gun.

If you zeroed the gun at 25 yards, then you might be back on at 75 yards. That would be a good "stopping rifle" zero, but so would the 50 yard zero.

To fine tune the impact points, you gotta shoot or have a ballistic program that gives good data for your gun, verified by shooting paper, before shooting game.

Dagga,right now i have the standard Ruger rear sight,but what I did was flip it over to have a U shaped opening and then broke down the corners with a file to open it just a tad more, the front bead is ivory polymer bead,All my issued duty weapons I have always sighted in front dead on,I want to hit what I am aiming at,have only used the 6 o-clock sight in when I was shooting PPC, I am looking at the new Mould mount that replaces the rib on the Ruger to allow you to use weaver type rings it appears there is enough room to mount a peep between the rings, and if so I will do that

Dave,
I'd have to agree with Daggaron's zeroing guide. This way you could still shoot accurately
to 150 yards with open sights (with practice).
I've never shot past 150 yards with open sights at big game and probably wouldn't
except at a going away wounded animal if it was the only choice.
500 Nitro

Dave James... you might want to experiment with your front sight... Personaly I find beads distracting on any form of rear sights except shallow V's, and peeps. Even on peeps I have a few half beads and soughdoughs. I dont know if this is problem with others but I seem to have spatium issues with a round ball in a square notch.

If not a bead then what? A sold post or slopeing ramp, with a gold bar set into it?

Dave get some life size deer targets. Take them to the woods and shoot at them with your iron sights at 50, 100 and farther if you so desire. I have found that for quick hunting use I like traditional double rifle sights, the rear sight, a wide shallow V sloping toward the front bead. Most front beads are gold/brass colored. My Chapuis 9.3 has a straight blade with an orange insert that "illuminates" when the standing blade is in shadow, and has a large white bead. It works good too. You just need to find out what your eyes like. The rifles with a front "moon" sight are really nice.

Dave,
I do not like to call it "6 o'clock" unless applied to the standard 25 yard handgun target where you indeed hold at "6 o'clock" on the black bull and have the bullet hitting some inches higher at the center of the bull.

With rifles, the other lingo is to call it a "fine bead" or "target bead," where the bullet hits right where you are aiming with the top edge of the bead at the sight in distance. You would hit the "6" instead of the center of the clock.

The alternative is the "coarse bead" or "combat bead," where the bullet hits in the center of the bead. If you use a large, highly visible, fast handling bead, this is great for close range fast shooting, but then you cover up a lot of target with the big bead at longer ranges and it becomes imprecise when you can take longer to aim at distant targets.

If you take a "fine bead" with a large bead, you can still be precise at longer ranges.

The square profile patridge or sourdough is best used with a "fine bead" type sight in.

I think it works best with a forward slant insert of gold or red/orange, without the hood, but put the hood on when storing or transporting the gun, and remove the hood when hunting.

A big white, red, or gold bead and a shallow V is fine, but I have come to like the big gold square post front better, with a flattop rear that has a square notch to nestle the front in.

Then you can really get clever and precise and more easily hold over like Elmer Keith did for longer range targets of opportunity, and not cover up your target as you would with a large bead and a "combat bead" sight-in.

Thank you gentlemen, will go foreward with this info and work on it.

I like the shallow V with a gold insert post (NECG) and take the post to the top of the V such as Dagga Ron uses a square knotch...An old Texas Ranger trick for snap shooting BYW..Mine fold down for an extra sight as I have a Talley peep..that gives me two iron sights and a scope on each rifle.

If interested in my sighting arrangment then call or give me an email and I can tell you how to sight in the peep and the V at the same time...