The stock has cracked in half between the magazine and trigger on my 600 Overkill. Is there a proper way to repair this? Was thinking about milling a slot and epoxying in a piece of all thread. Don't want to run a bolt all the way through since I can't think of a way to keep it from looking weird on the outside.

This is how I did it. I clamped the stock tightly after squirting a bit of superglue into the crack. This was good enough to hold it together for the next step. I then drilled and tapped a hole for 1/4" -20 and cut a piece of all-thread, cut a groove in the end with a hacksaw for a screwdriver slot, coated the inside of the hole and the outside of the all-thread with epoxy and screwed it into the stock, and added enough epoxy to level off the hole to the outside surface of the stock. After dressing it down and repainting the stock, it was good to go and that was 25 years ago on a 338/06 and it is still going strong. If it was cracked behind the recoil lug, I would step up to 5/16. Good luck!

Excellent advice from lee440.

It needs to be crossbolted times three:

1. between the trigger well and magazine well
2. behind the primary recoil lug on action
3. behind the secondary recoil lug on barrel

you need to do it the way he said in all three places.
You can make it pretty.

Or you can make it fugly like I did ... I did that triple-crossbolting to a standard weight Brown Precision fiberglass stock
for a .458 Lott Whitworth Mark X, rechambered and opened up from .458 WIN.
Then I smeared the entire stock with the old Microbed brown epoxy, roughed it up,
and painted it with Krylon flat black.
It is fugly, but at 8.0 pounds, it is the only .458 Lott I have ever respected.
I might take a scraper to it to expose some of the brown color beneath the black paint, like simulated wood grain.



Rip ...

I don't see why two cross bolts would look weird to you? Some of us old African hunters like that look! and they work far better than the non-exposed cross bolts, the head of the cross bolt is its primary strength, especially since the .600 already split the material once and that tells me you need glassed in cross bolts, the exposed kind with a head on them and snugged down tight in extra glass around the inserts. Just my two bits.

If you're going to be milling it, I'd look at putting in an aluminum plate instead of threaded rod. All thread or cross bolts make sense as the easiest approach when cross drilling, but if you're going to go with a milled pocket, IMHO a plate would be a superior way of spreading the force of recoil to the stock and reinforcing the damaged area.

The reason I'm hesitant to put an exposed crossbolt is that I don't know how to do it without messing up the finish on the stock. Not to mention the crossbolt for the recoil lug is built into the stock and isn't exposed. Could always repaint the stock if I had to, I just like the way it looks now and don't think I could match it.

I like the idea of putting an aluminum plate is the stock. Is there a preferred shape? I think my 460 Weatherby is reinforced that way, but since it's covered in epoxy it's hard to tell what they did.

An aluminum plate or any kind of hidden cross boot may or may not hold everything together..Keep in mind the cross bolt came about because the action area is the weakest link in a stock on a bolt action rifle, it spreads on recoil, and pulls the rifle apart from both sides of the magazine well, thus the head of the cross bolt itself addresses that problem, nothing else does..You have to understand the problem to address it properly..