I have one on a #1 and considering adding a Ruger RSM or a CZ 550. The thing that worries me are the posts of splitting stocks at the tang (or elsewhere) due to the recoil.

Can someone clarify this for me?

POP- Whats the problem? Just relieve and glass bed the tang!! 15 minutes of work and a day to cure. Two crossbolts and glass bed the barrel mounted recoil lug ( First) then the action lug and nothing will ever split!-Rob

POP:

I think it was RIP who had a stock split with a CZ. You might send him a PM. However, I think Rob it right that it's a pretty easy fix with two cross bolts and the proper bedding. I have a CZ in 500 Jeffery. I had the same concerns so I just ordered it with a laminate stock. I think the laminates are stronger but maybe not. Anyway, CZ bedded it for me and I have not had a problem.

Laminates probably are stronger, but they are not immune to splitting... I have a muzzleloading shotgun that is set up just like a rifle, recoil lug and all. The laminate stock on it split from the recoil lug past the wrist and into the buttstock because the mortise wasn't fit correctly and the action wasn't bedded.

If anything, I believe the laminates may be MORE prone to splitting because of the layers of stock wood. All that has to happen is incomplete penetration of resin and an incorrectly fitted recoil mortise/lug.

Bed the recoil lug and first 1" of the barrel using the Whelen method, relieve the tang so it does not touch the wood at the back and double crossbolt the stock. It will never split if done correctly.

Above all,the guard screws or recoil lug screw in this case,should be tightened to the specified torque.The lug screw then has to be locked.The most important thing on any rifle is a locked guard screw.Even a very expensive rifle is worthless without this.
Before doing this you should bed the action.Make sure the mix is right and the bedding is hard.Soft bedding makes the rifle inaccurate.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Above all,the guard screws or recoil lug screw in this case,should be tightened to the specified torque.The lug screw then has to be locked.The most important thing on any rifle is a locked guard screw.Even a very expensive rifle is worthless without this.
Before doing this you should bed the action.Make sure the mix is right and the bedding is hard.Soft bedding makes the rifle inaccurate.

I haver never "locked" any guard screws on any of my Big bore rifles.. And never had an issue... I just second what Rob wrote above... And also recommend the Accurate Innovations stocks - no barrel lug needed with these...

quote:

Originally posted by buffalo:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Above all,the guard screws or recoil lug screw in this case,should be tightened to the specified torque.The lug screw then has to be locked.The most important thing on any rifle is a locked guard screw.Even a very expensive rifle is worthless without this.
Before doing this you should bed the action.Make sure the mix is right and the bedding is hard.Soft bedding makes the rifle inaccurate.

I haver never "locked" any guard screws on any of my Big bore rifles.. And never had an issue... I just second what Rob wrote above... And also recommend the Accurate Innovations stocks - no barrel lug needed with these...

You people don`t know rifles.I am one with a rifle.

Laminates just take a lil longer to split. Once that tang gets moving it acts like a Wedge in a log splitter. The trick is to stop it from ever moving. I explained how.-Rob

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by buffalo:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Above all,the guard screws or recoil lug screw in this case,should be tightened to the specified torque.The lug screw then has to be locked.The most important thing on any rifle is a locked guard screw.Even a very expensive rifle is worthless without this.
Before doing this you should bed the action.Make sure the mix is right and the bedding is hard.Soft bedding makes the rifle inaccurate.

I haver never "locked" any guard screws on any of my Big bore rifles.. And never had an issue... I just second what Rob wrote above... And also recommend the Accurate Innovations stocks - no barrel lug needed with these...

You people don`t know rifles.I am one with a rifle.

Have you put your "helmet" on again???

The Ruger RSM has NO PRIMARY RECOIL LUG ON THE ACTION.
It has only the recoil plate in the forearm that cantilevers back to a small round bolster on the action.
Take the rifle out of the stock and the solitary forearm recoil lug falls off of the rifle.
The visible cross bolt in the RSM does not back up a recoil lug on the action: There is none.
But it does some good to prevent splitting from forward of the magazine well.
This recoil-plate system seems to have good accuracy potential, but maybe not the best for stock life.

I know of no synthetic or laminate stocks available for the RSM.
Sumbuddy who know?

Dave Bush,
I had a CZ stock break off at the grip: bad wood, marble-cake grain flow in the wrist, had little to do with recoil effects, just bad wood!!!
My solution was to get a CZ Kevlar stock for free from CZ to replace the fancy American black walnut on that 404 Jeffery.
The harder kicking .505 Gibbs with better grain still wears the wood.

Laminate stocks: they are only as strong as the wood in the veneers.
They can split down the middle of a veneer just like wood.
Good walnut with proper grain flow through the wrist may be stronger than a cheap laminate.

Yes: Relief at the tang is very important for any stock.
Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
or full aluminum bedding block like AI, HS precision, or B&C.
Cross bolts and secondary barrel recoil lugs, if you have the primary on the action for starters!
Wrist bolt for any weak grain in the wrist.
And keep the action screws properly torqued.
Not padlocked or helmeted as shootaway recommends.

quote:

Originally posted by RIP:
Wrist bolt for any weak grain in the wrist.

Hi RIP, any idea how a wrist bolt is inserted?

Deep drill from grip cap to rear action pillar and fill the hole with a piece of all thread and epoxy.
3/8" diameter steel allthread should be good enough.
Hole should be 13/32" and filled with epoxy and rod screwed into epoxy to overflow.

Works nicely if you have a steel grip cap to cover the hole where you started.
You can start right behind the grip cap on the bottom edge of the buttstock, and fill the hole with brown, gray, or black epoxy.
I have done that to a laminated wood stock, and of course that made a nice beauty mark on the stock.
1/2" diameter allthread on that one.

Thanks RIP, that's fantastic. May have a practice run on an old stock first