I have done some reading of old posts and am confused. I have a .505 Gibbs that is being bedded and having dual cross bolts installed. We are also going to put a pillar on the rear action screw. I have seen references that the rear tang should be glassed too, but that there should be clearance (.002) between the tang and the stock. That is where I get confused. If you glass the rear tang, won't that eliminate any clearance and create a perfect wood-to-glass-to-metal fit? Are the references to glassing the rear tang to glassing under the tang but not behind it? Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

I'm not an expert Mike but I never glass behind the tang on any of my guns, just under it. First of all, its too visible in a wood stock on any caliber. Second, you're right that on a big kicker it negates the purpose of having some relief to prevent cracking.

But as I type this I recall that I have to make one exception in my battery for my M1 Garand.

Mike, Ditto with tiggertate's remarks.

quote:

Originally posted by MJines:
That is where I get confused. If you glass the rear tang, won't that eliminate any clearance and create a perfect wood-to-glass-to-metal fit? Are the references to glassing the rear tang to glassing under the tang but not behind it? Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

Mike - Layers of vinyl tape can be added to the outside of the tang where you want to create the clearance.

Bed the tang (with the tape in tact), remove the tape from the finished bedding job, and you'll have an amount of clearance between the tang and bedding equal to the thickness of tape you applied before bedding.

The tape is going to be "taller" than the vertical portion of the rear tang, so the excess tape should be trimmed off with an exacto knife or razor blade before bedding.

Thanks folks! That is what I thought, the posts could only be referring to bedding under the tang.

new_guy gives good advice.
That is how I do it.
Vinyl electrician's tape two layers thick should do it.
A common CZ stock crack is behind the tang, and in the web between the trigger and magazine box.
Glass under the tang with a pillar, and behind the tang. All around the tang. Make it pretty!
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I prefer Brownells glass bed.I am carefull not to use to much or else things will get ugly and permenantly stained.I do not remove any wood.I might just sand to remove the wood stain or varnish.I fill the lug recess about half way and if you put to much it won't hurt because it will creep into the chamber area.The more time you spend on this the better and cleaner it will turn out.If the job is done quick one should remove the guard screws just a few hours before it is to late and they become to difficult to remove.I put a tiny bit under the rear tang around the hole where the rear guard screw goes through.

Its literally obligatory to glass bed the tang ( sides and bottom) but leave some clearance on the sides. I use some single sided teflon tape to make sure it comes out easily. Any pits in the tang sides can fill with epoxy and split out when first removing the gun from the bedding. I mix some steelbed into the Brownells glass bed and some coloring to match the stock. Its always worked for me.-Rob