I'm in completely new territory and am not sure about this one. I just took delivery of my first big bore (or medium bore....wherever it falls). I reload for everything I own and am getting ready to start development for the new gun. However, I've never worked with anything (power-wise) beyond a 7-STW or .300 Win Mag. Two questions, I guess.

1. Is it necessary to crimp on a .375 Wby. to keep bullets from walking out??

2. If it is necessary, what's the deal on crimping a TSX?? I can just about predict that the rings are not going to coincide exactly with where I'd need to be as far as COL goes.

Strut10

I have a .375 WeM myself. Basically I crimp at given cannelure(s). Depending on the bullet chosen the OAL is basically fixed, the decision to avoid bullet "walkout" taking priority. Guess the shift up to big bore changed loading practices with smaller calibers for which I don't crimp at all.

Some of the banded bullets plus dual-cannelured offerings leave a bit of room for accuracy tinkering, given that you want to crimp. I think only longer bullets like 300-grain SIERRA's as well as monometal solids might avoid moving under recoil due to huge surface bearing area (more friction, whatever the right term is).

Watch pressures and use a chrony as you look for what you want in a load. My strong Bruno leaves a little room for error, as I grew to appreciate working up my own loads. It is a rebored .375 H&H with full freebore. Even so, I found one solid (RHINO) that had to be seated extremely deeply to stay off the lands -- an ogive thing there.

BNagel

P.S. PM me if you like, but I tend to stick with published data, be it Somchem, Barnes, older reloading books, etc. I have lots of recipes / combinations should they be of interest. I will add that my rifle likes H4831SC, Remington (H&H) brass stinks while WW brass holds up better and NORMA (H&H) is okay, Weatherby brass is full length, AA brass was SOFT!! and
W760 with 350-grain bullets is touchy. Also, max .375 H&H loads seem to be a good place to start with .375 WeM (Weatherby Magnum)

quote:

1. Is it necessary to crimp on a .375 Wby. to keep bullets from walking out??

If anything the bullets will be compressed due to recoil in the magazine.....assuming you're shooting a bolt action rifle. If you have a double I'd crimp the bullets however...

I've never crimped the .375 H&H and never had a problem due to it......

It is a bolt rifle. My main concern, I guess, is that I plan to shoot the 270 gr. TSX if it groups well and it should. I didn't know whether the decreased bearing surface of the TSX would create a problem. Tyhe rifle has no plans to be a DG gun any time soon. So, I guess it's more a matter of convenience, for now, rather than life or death.

Hurrah! Another of the most versatile .375 rifles in the world.
I started with one 20 years ago. Below are some 3.6" loads, all crimped except the 350 grain Barnes Original. The one long one is close to 3.8" and is the Walterhog 300 grainer, which has a long nose requiring a box longer than the standard .375 H&H:

The long nose Walterhog works well in a Dakota 76 African or CZ 550 Magnum.

I would recommend crimping any bullet you can in the .375 Wby, though I have had no problems with full case loads using the 300 gr Sierra GameKing, a fine softer than usual bullet for the .375 Wby.

The Norma made properly headstamped .375 Wby brass is best overall, and gives greatest case capacity, though the Hornady basic and old BarnesAmmo basic brass can make great full length brass for the .375 Wby.

crimping creates more pressure, i personnaly dont crimp anything that does not go in a semi-auto. i dont recomend crimping on any bolt gun. if the bullet starts moving,check to see if your neck is getting resized properly. i dont believe that any factory ( non military or non military caliber) is crimped at the factory. if you do decide to crimp, start at the minimum charge and work up with only a slight crimp. i have hanloaded my 338 very hot and in 20 years have never crimped or had bulletts move on me

You need to crimp the rounds. Otherwise the bullets will be driven into the case by the magazine box when the rifle recoils.

nwwash,
Hogwash! You see above the shiny brass case is a Weatherby factory load for the .375 Wby, with Norma brass, Nosler 300gr partition that has a cannelure, and the round was CRIMPED AT THE FACTORY.

As HARDBALLER says, you need to crimp the rounds.