The Accurate Reloading Forums
Getting Lightweight Boyd's stock to handle 7000ftlbs of 500 AccRel Nyati
19 June 2014, 21:36
416TanzanGetting Lightweight Boyd's stock to handle 7000ftlbs of 500 AccRel Nyati
quote:
Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
I have never had any luck with a fully bedded barrel( from lug to forearm. I've never needed any up pressure on any barrel other than featherlight ones. I think you will be most successful if you bed the barrel with 1-1.5 only as I described.Free float the rest of the barrel. My first CZ .600ok was built exactly as described and I probably have over 2k rounds through it. This procedure has worked for me on every big bore I ever built. I would replace the CZ forward barrel lug with a 1/2x 1/2x 3/4 piece of steel that is machined with a fly cutter to exactly match your barrel profile. Solder and screw it into place. Those are the best forward lugs I have ever worked with. Bed the lug so that only the rear face contacts the bedding with no contact on the bottom or sides. Don't be afraid to hog out lots of wood and replace it with Brownells steel bed. Pay attention to the tang and pillar bed the action while your at it. If it can't move it can't crack. Rob
Well, I can certainly tape the sides and bottom of the forearm lug so that only the rear-facing lug makes contact. But the current lug is integrally cut as part of the barrel contour so I can hardly justify the expense to replace that with an add-on lug. Think of the current forearm lug as 2/3" wide by 1/8" high by 1.5" deep, perfectly molded and fitted to the barrel.
I will plan on getting some pillars for the Boyd's laminate, though the Hogue already has aluminum pillars and has held up to all recoil. Maybe I'll bed the action to forearm lug area and then try the rifle with and without forearm tip pressure.
"If it can't move it can't crack."
Unless it overwhelms the strength of the retaining wood, as happened at the beginning of the thread, first picture, where there was no main bedding beyond the Boyd's crossbolt PLUS a forearm recoil crossbolt and bedded lug.
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"A well-rounded hunting battery might include:
500 AccRel Nyati, 416 Rigby or 416 Ruger, 375Ruger or 338WM, 308 or 270, 243, 223" --
Conserving creation, hunting the harvest.
19 June 2014, 23:34
RobgunbuilderOh it moved alright! That's why it cracked the way it did! If you pack it all up, get on a plane and come to Vegas, I would fix it up for you. Test fire and make sure it all works. No FFl so you need to bring it. No money either , but You bring the booze!-Rob
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012
Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise!
20 June 2014, 02:14
416Tanzanquote:
Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
Oh it moved alright! That's why it cracked the way it did! If you pack it all up, get on a plane and come to Vegas, I would fix it up for you. Test fire and make sure it all works. No FFl so you need to bring it. No money either , but You bring the booze!-Rob
Rob, that is a generous offer and I would like to take you up on it sometime when we are back out West where the rifles are.
So would a couple nice Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels count as 'booze.'?
PS: You, too, think that the main lug area can be fixed even though it now has some allthread crossbolts in place?
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"A well-rounded hunting battery might include:
500 AccRel Nyati, 416 Rigby or 416 Ruger, 375Ruger or 338WM, 308 or 270, 243, 223" --
Conserving creation, hunting the harvest.
I have had excellent luck with full contact bedding from primary action recoil lug to secondary barrel recoil lug,
then free-floated remainder of barrel.
Many times. Always.
The 500 Mbogo rifle No. 1 has an integral lug on the barrel like 416Tanzan's, made by McGowen tooling too.
Good lug.
5 pounds up-pressure of forend tip made a "featherweight" .375 H&H shoot .75 MOA instead of 1.5 MOA for me once upon a time:
Light-whippy barrel syndrome, aye, it was a number 3 Douglas sporter contour, 24" long.
THE MAIN THING IS TO DO ALL YOU CAN FROM THE OUTSET AND DON'T DO IT HALF WAY,
LIKE LEAVING THE PRIMARY RECOIL LUG NOT BEDDED.For $300 I would rather start fresh with a new Boyd's laminate, and not have to repair the damages of previous false starts.
Time is money.
Definitely use pillars.

Hey! I visited Rob in Las Vegas, and all we had was coffee! Was I supposed to bring the booze?

20 June 2014, 02:36
RobgunbuilderTanz416- Opus one works just fine. Although I'm actually not all that particular. I could most likely salvage the stock but as Rip says getting a new one would be easier. Offer stands whenever your ready.
What no one has suggested welding on a new barrel mounted lug aka some great rifle builders we all know ? Come on now!!! No RTV bedding ? Shootaway says use 5 minute epoxy and a handful of nails. Save one for barrel up pressure !

just having fun !-Rob
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012
Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise!
20 June 2014, 17:45
jeffeossoi built the first 550 express on the boyds lam JRS stock ... then used it as a pattern for the piece of turkish i later used..
barrel lug, bedding, xbolts (these don't do what you think) and axial wrist pin/rod...
you HAVE to have all the action screws tight even the "useless" trigger to action screw on a m70...
i usually bed the barrel+barrel lug and the back half of the action, at once, then the front of the action the next day ... otherwise it will get locked in.
on a ruger, remove some wood and bed the front of the bottom metals ...
21 June 2014, 00:03
capowardquote:
you HAVE to have all the action screws tight even the "useless" trigger to action screw on a m70...
How about the "useless" trigger action screw on the M77 MKII?
Jim
"Life's hard; it's harder if you're stupid"
John Wayne