Hey guys,

How many of you have the banded rear sights with the lug that then needs to get inletted into the stock.

How do you find them accuracy wise?

I've always been brought up to believe that a free floating barrel is the best for accuracy. However, with a banded rear sight, how can the barrel be free floating? its going to be making contact with the stock.

Or am I missing something?

quote:

Originally posted by kiwiwildcat:
Hey guys,

How many of you have the banded rear sights with the lug that then needs to get inletted into the stock.

How do you find them accuracy wise?

I've always been brought up to believe that a free floating barrel is the best for accuracy. However, with a banded rear sight, how can the barrel be free floating? its going to be making contact with the stock.

Or am I missing something?

Two things you need to also consider, how thick is your barrel and how long is it.

In addition stopping a big bore rifle from destroying a stock is a little more important than if the barrel is free floating, thats the reason behind the second recoil lug

lastly Big bore rifles tend to be pretty accurate, what makes them inaccurate is flinching

regards S&F

I have a 416 Rigby with a integral quarter-rib rear sight that also has a integral recoil lug. The gun is very accurate.

I have a 300H&H with a banded rear sight and "no" recoil lug. This gun is also very accurate.

Both of these examples have Krieger barrels.

I'm currently having a 450 Rigby built and it has a integral recoil lug and quarter-rib, also on a Krieger barrel..

I would only use a recoil lug if it is needed...i.e., big bore.

What caliber are you thinking about?

It's going to be a 404 Jeffery.

I'm also toying with the idea of a 1/4 rib. Speaking to vapodog on this site, he got a #5 contour barrel and ordered a matching Dakota 1/4 rib site from brownells.

His 404 is built on an MRC 1999 long action with MRC barrel. Same way that i'm headed as well.

Here are some pictures of the process.

What is the calibre?

Would you recommend a second recoil lug. I'm going to tripple crossbolt the stock, & strengthen the wrist as well as glass / pillar bed.

For any big bore I considered the NECG banded rear sight/recoil lug for,
the available diameters were too skinny for my barrel.
Thus have gone with integral rear sight base/recoil lug if needed, or screwed and soldered recoil lug and rear sight island.

Being a man of many rifles, 100-plus,
I have always gotten the big bores with stiff enough barrels to shoot sub MOA even with secondary recoil lugs on the barrel.
Usually this just required full contact bedding out to the secondary recoil lug, then free floating beyond that.

Of course the integral quarter rib on top should also enhance accuracy by stiffening the barrel.

I would not demand a secondary recoil lug on the barrel for anything under .458 caliber.

Plenty of 450 Dakotas do without that secondary recoil lug on the barrel, but have good glass bedding and crossbolting and other stock reinforcements.

quote:

Originally posted by kiwiwildcat:
What is the calibre?

Would you recommend a second recoil lug. I'm going to tripple crossbolt the stock, & strengthen the wrist as well as glass / pillar bed.

Those pictures are from the 450 Rigby. It will only have the recoil lug on the barrel, plus two cross-bolts. I considered adding extended tangs if they were necessary, but my gunsmith said they were not. I prefer my guns without extended tangs (I am probably in the minority here), so I opted not to add them.

I think the most important factor is the wood blank you choose to use (grain layout). The blank being used on this rifle has a really good layout for a big bore.

As far as the need for additional recoil lugs and/or cross bolts.......I would leave that judgement call up to the person who is building the rifle. Like anything, you can come to a point of too much of a good thing.

I will try and post a picture of the blank being used in this project, so you can see the grain flow/layout.

Here is a picture of the blank,

The sweated on barrel band with recoil lug and sight ramp with one standing shallow V is pretty hard to beat..It is the best option short of a quarter rib.

quote:

Originally posted by MHC_TX:

quote:

Originally posted by kiwiwildcat:
What is the calibre?

Would you recommend a second recoil lug. I'm going to tripple crossbolt the stock, & strengthen the wrist as well as glass / pillar bed.

Those pictures are from the 450 Rigby. It will only have the recoil lug on the barrel, plus two cross-bolts. I considered adding extended tangs if they were necessary, but my gunsmith said they were not. I prefer my guns without extended tangs (I am probably in the minority here), so I opted not to add them.

I think the most important factor is the wood blank you choose to use (grain layout). The blank being used on this rifle has a really good layout for a big bore.

As far as the need for additional recoil lugs and/or cross bolts.......I would leave that judgement call up to the person who is building the rifle. Like anything, you can come to a point of too much of a good thing.

I will try and post a picture of the blank being used in this project, so you can see the grain flow/layout.

My commendations on the caliber. I have one that I'm going to get restocked in composite because the original stock is too short and I'm too cheap to go with high grade walnut. However, short as it is it knocks buffalo down. I'll never be able to afford a elephant hunt but as far as I am concerned, the .450 Rigby is second only to the .505 Gibbs as the Queen of Class III DG rifles. Ah luv iyut!

Very nice blank...I would opt for a second lug on the barrel band sight or on the barrel makes little difference..always the best and most expensive option is all intregal cut with the barrel..Is it worth all those extra dollars, probably not unless your just flush to the gills.