I have a 500 S&W Handi rifle. I have it scoped with see through mounts.

How do I keep the scope from moving? The scope slid all the way forward after 32 shots (about 3/16").

Buy some contact cement at the local hardware store and add some grip to the rings.

would blue locktite work?

Strips of bicycle inner tube in the ring ID also work.

quote:

Originally posted by RMiller:
would blue locktite work?

Probably. Anything that adds adhesion without enough dimension to deform the tube should be ok. The old standby is 3M ScothKote but a can is about $30 now and big enough to do 374,623.574 scopes.

I've tried Loctite; it doesn't work or at least didn't for me.

i have used loctite...red.... on my .416 rem mag m70 with redfield 2x7x20... i had similar problems on my .375 h&h untill i loctited the rings and scope...... my new chapuis' scope is installed using red loctite... its a 9,3 x 74r.. with an older 2 1/2 weaver... the loctite works good for me... just make sure that the rings fit properly before you use it... a soldering iron will help in removing a loctited screw...

In the past few days I have shot my 458 with Burris signature rings with the synthetic inserts. These things hold a scope like nothing else out there. Boxes of full power loads and the scope hasn't budged.

Joe

sounds like you have a ring problem. I'd start by changing rings before i'd go a glue the scope in

it sounds like a ring problem like butchloc said. if these are decent rings with a gloss finish scope, you might try 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper cut to the width of the rings and put the rough side toward the rings. on half of each ring should hold the scope.
james

get some scope ring lapping compound from brownells and put a light coat on the rings. Tighten the screws down and your scope will never move again.-Rob

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
get some scope ring lapping compound from brownells and put a light coat on the rings. Tighten the screws down and your scope will never move again.-Rob

Nice idea. Hadn't thought of that. Wouldn't deteriorate like the little strips of bike tube rubber do. Thanks.

String Resin will work as well, have used it on the 300 boomers for awhile to help hold scopes in place

No offense, but no no no no no no no no and a couple of HELL no's. Lap the rings to get 100% contact between scope and rings and then tighten to the manufacturer's specs. This should be a torque value 35-50 inch/lbs or the like. No one recomends tape, lock tight or the like, stay away from wives tales and home remedies. The lap and torque method works on my BMG, it'll work on your .500 too.

Collins is correct folks about lapping in rings being the best way to go. However, I do take issue with the comment about the BMG being up to the recoil of the 500S&W. The 500S&W develops 36ft/lbs of recoil at 18fps in a seven pound handi rifle. The BMG is much more potent in its non-muzzle break form at 117ft/lbs at 15 fps in a 32 pound rifle. However, when you add in the muzzle break you greatly reduce energy and recoil speed, making the BMG less of an immediate impact on the scope. We have spent a great deal of time lapping in rings for some of the bigger guns we shoot, but the Armalite AR-50 works with any rings we try. One of the guys that shoots here has a Steyr Jeff Cooper scout rifle in 376 Steyr. That thing will knock your fillings loose and rattle any scope rings made except the Burris signatures as I have found out in the past few days. It weighs just over six pounds with the scope and produces 48ft/lbs pounds of recoil at 21fps. It is a far worse gun to shoot than my 458 lott or the 458 Win Mag.

If you have the time and expertise to lap the rings in, great. The inner tube works too, but its not permanent. The Burris signature rings with the synthetic inserts are quick, very easy and last forever. They are also a lot easier on the scope than most other ways of getting the rings to hold tight. I am a recent convert to them and have several sets of Warne rings now gathering dust after being replaced by the Burris product.

Joe

You gotta remember many of the guys here are new and don't have the tools to lap rings to 100% contact. Best they will do is a broomstick wrapped with 120 grit. I lap my rings with the BROWNELLS tool clean them and then wipe on some lapping compound. My .50BMG scope ( nightforce) hasn't moved in 1375 rds.-Rob

True, but McMaster Carr has 1" and 30mm steel rod at about $12 a foot and I just use the an aggressive car buffing compound. my whole kit was about $30 USD. I also think it's very important to not use the scope to align the rings and bases when tightening the first time.

If you've never been to the site it's amazing, their catalog sells on e-bay for $50

Good rings like the Burris Signature Zees or lapped Leupold PRW/QRW work for me, I use a Russ Haydon kit for lapping rings, I don't think you'll find a better tool for less at just over $20+ shipping, no slipping with any of those rings on some heavy thumpers, including the 500S&W Handi, even with 700gr RR loads.

http://www.shooters-supply.com/web_specials.html


500S&W w/Nikon shotgun scope in low PRWs


http://www.shooters-supply.com/web_specials.html

Brownells accraglass works too! But better like your scope, and like it just where it is, cause it won't go nowhere once it sets!!

Collins is correct..however a light thin coating of rubber cement is good insureance if not applied too thick and it can be rubbed off with your fingers after it dries...I always use it sparingly on all my rifles after lapping..It also saves the finish on your scope...

Also, remember to no overlap the scope rings otherwise your just adding to the existing problem....