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Well, I just got back from the range and I was trying to determine if I could take the scope on and off utilizing the Ruger factory rings without functional loss of zero. On the 375 Ruger I was shooting today I took the scope on and off four times. The results seemed knida strange to me. The rifle remained perfect as far as windage goes but would go 1 to 1 1/2 inches above initial point of impact, this was at 100 yards. So I guess one has to determine if that qualifies as loss of zero to his own perception. On a different note, this little shooting jag put the rifle at 208 rounds fired and the stock is fine. A member was adamently stating in a post that the stock wouldn't go 200 rounds without splitting.....sorry, its still going strong. If you take the stock off the rifle you will see wonder of wonders...BEDDING COMPOUND !!! from the factory no less !!! Ruger is trying, they addressed the stock issue it seems............JJ " venator ferae bestiae et aquae vitae " | ||
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Woodgrain is like a damascus pattern or a fingerprint, so no prediction about it's resistance to stress force can be extrapolated from another piece on different gun. With respect to zero retention, you know, there is a reason why those H&H and Suhl type qd mounts are very expensive. | |||
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One thing that helps any detachable mount is to have the mounts lapped or the scope bedded to the rings. A .001" misalignment is worth about 1 inch at a 100 yards | |||
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Interesting. There is absolutely no factory bedding compound in my African stock. Bare wood all around internally. I have set the stock aside for future work, and bedded it in an HS Precision synthetic. I plan to chronograph the factory ammo at above freezing temperatures by weekend if weather cooperates, to add to collective data here. I did make up some dummies to send to a World Famous Gunmaker (WFG). Pulling the factory loads apart yielded what Hornady is putting in them: 6 rounds of each were dissected, both 270-grain and 300-grain softs. Ball powder was found in each.There is "air-shake" in both loadings, more in the 300 than the 270, even though the 300 grainer is loaded with over a grain more powder. The shank below the crimp on the 270-grainer is much longer than the 300-grainers buried shank, thus the 270-grainer uses up more case capacity. This suggests they are using a faster ball powder for the 270-grainer than the 300-grainer. FYI powder charges from Hornady: 300-grainer 84.1 84.5 84.3 84.0 83.4 83.7 ave = 84.0 grains of ball powder X: About 90% of case capacity used, I guess. 270-grainer: 83.3 83.3 82.6 82.3 83.2 82.6 ave = 82.9 grains of ball powder Y: Over 95% of case capacity used, I guess. Hand loads could be better, within +/- 0.1 grain instead of +/- 0.6 grain on the factory loads, for this small sample. | |||
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That's the first "African" stock I've ever heard of w/ epoxy bedding. Check out my thread on the "African". The method I described to align and lap factory Ruger ringmounts works very well. I've done this on about a dozen or so and all repeated well. Just remember that once they are squared away without binding, they need to be pushed forward against the recoil bearing surface and consistently tightened each time. It has always worked for me. GVA | |||
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I plan to follow Jeff Quinn's lead and start w/ commercial H4350 and a 270gr bullet. At least until proofed and published data is released. I'm unsure if you'll ever find a commercial ball powder the equivelent/equal to Hornady's in-house blend. GVA | |||
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One other thing I forgot to mention. While mine was off the stock, I noticed that it appeared to have less wood removed in the area of the webbing compared to previous mkII wood stocks I examined. I intended to take measurements to confirm this but forgot prior to putting her back together. I'll make sure to check again when I bed the rifle. I'm of the opinion that this is the only weak spot in the wood stock. If the "African" has a bit more wood in the web area, that should help. I'll add a pin anyway though. GVA | |||
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Kinda off topic, but not too far.. I think Ruger missed the boat by not making the Alaskan in Stainless. then I'd order one.. MopaneMike | |||
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Gary, I never use ball powders. I plan on using H4350 Extreme, which is a "short cut" powder that meters well. I also think Mr. Quinn got some wild velocities which I hope to not duplicate. I'll be backing off the loads if I do. | |||
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Gossip is that the first 100 Alaskans are chrome-moly like the African, but after that they will be stainless. I have not seen a single one in either guise yet. | |||
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Crap... Now I have to try to come up with another reason not to buy one.. Hmmm.. can't think of one.. MopaneMike | |||
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NEWS FLASH!!!! They are stainless!!! Only the first 100 will have a blued steel (cast receiver), the barrel is stainless. But, the rest will be stainless under the ion coating. I'm now saving out for an "Alaskan" in the new 416Ruger which should be out in 2008-2009. GVA | |||
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Hey bro' RIP, Take a peek at the Ramshot powders. They look like ball powders, but act like stick powders. Damndest thing. Even relatively temperature insensitive. Try some "Hunter" in lieu of 4350. As Lou Reed said, "Take a walk..... | |||
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Bro' Dart, I just got happy with the Hodgdon Extreme line. And you want me to switch? My powder magazine has no more room. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll remember that if I ever need some tiny granules. It is raining here. Hoping for sun on Sunday. | |||
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lawndart Apart from the powder quality, RIP also likes to help Australia's export business Mike | |||
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Mike, You can always tell yourself that you're waiting for one in 9.3X62 That may work for a looooong time. By the way, I just bought a second 375 Hawkeye with dies and a box of 270s...$750.00 from someone who didn't like the pounding. | |||
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FWIW, the photos on the Ruger website show a forward crossbolt and the African. As a point of order, how is the recoil? If you are going to carry a big stick, you've got to whack someone with it at least every once in while. | |||
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Redlander, Yep, the Africans all have that visible crossbolt ahead of the magazine box to reinforce the action recoil lug. Gary is talking about burying a piece of steel all-thread (I assume) in the web between magazine well and trigger well. This is what I would do also. My African stock is very nice walnut, very well fitted to the metal. My bare-naked African weighs exactly 7# 12 oz, and the stock weighs exactly 1# 12 oz. That makes 6 pounds even of barreled action and sights on that rifle. Recoil is very gentle, like a .375 H&H. Not enough more to tell any difference. I am used to shooting a 6.75# bare-naked .375 H&H. | |||
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Thanks RIP, my .375 H&H Win SS Classic gets real close to 10 lbs. loaded and it just seems a might heavey for me. I've also decided that my SS Classic in 30-06 is going to be my go-to rifle for everything except DG - even for Alaska. Thus I'm really considering making the switch. I guess I could always turn the barrel and switch out stocks on mine. The new Ruger does have a very classic "African working rifle" look to it though. If you are going to carry a big stick, you've got to whack someone with it at least every once in while. | |||
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Redlander, RIP nailed it about the recoil...not too bad with the 270s. I'm going to try 300 RN tomorrow a.m. I bet the 416 will let you know you just jerked off a shot! | |||
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Grain flow through the tang and grip is perfect on this pretty-good wood. A slip-on LimbSaver makes the butt look and feel better. Crossbolt: | |||
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Another picture of the bare-naked lady on a bison skin rug. Gun porn, but not too exciting for the extended-pinky-finger crowd. Bolt action trash. Crossbolt: | |||
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Nice looking rifle, but I would like a little thicker but pad. | |||
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...........Big Doggy ;;I,m suprised at you ....... .If it can,t be grown , its gotta be mined .... | |||
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OK.... OK!!!!!.. I'v had enough of this damn Ruger375 debate and can't take it anymore!... Make mine an Alaskan Stainless.. Anybody out there get me a good price?? Hmm.. Then put her in an African stock, that would make her purdy. MopaneMike | |||
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Mike, ...want to buy a Hawkeye African? It now seems I have an extra, the way things played out. | |||
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Thanks Luv2... But I want to get back into horse back late season Elk hunting with a vengance.. Plastic and Stainless short barreled artilery with back-up sights seems just the ticket to me.. MopaneMike | |||
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Well, hell, man! Lop the barrel, glue the front sight back on, spray paint the receiver and barrel with silver paint, and put it all in a Butler Creek stock. (have you ever seen such salesmanship? ) | |||
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Hey SafariLUv the local gunshop manager says "The only difference between rape and sex is salesmanship!" LOL | |||
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JJ Miller Re suggestion on Ruger rings return to zero. Make sure the claw [the side opposite the coin slotted screw] fits perfectly into the dovetail of the reciever, ie get it straight and hold it by hand as you tighten the coin sloted screw. Tighten one ring first, I recommend the front, then do the same with the rear. Resight the rifle if necessary. then do it the same each time. Try that and let me know how it works for you. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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OK, so arrest me! I confess to rape...uhhh...salesmanship...(maybe both ) | |||
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JJ, You could spend a thousand dollars on "return to zero" mounting systems and not get any better than you have. Return to zero is a very loosly used term in the scope mount business. Everybodys system works, havn't you heard. The better systems return within 2 inches is my experience so you have a good one. I have my actions surface ground, bases hand fitted, and scopes centered set at adjustment center and I get about what you got on a factory rifle. Remember exact center can be screwed up simply by slapping the scope with an open hand. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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