I started off with two Ruger .338 WM's. The project started life as a Ruger M77 MKII stainless with synthetic stock in .338 WM. I have debated over the last year converting to .375 H&H or .375 Ruger. I even tried to sell the rifle. But after much contemplation I decided on .416 Ruger.

I also did not want the big thick walnut stock on the Ruger Safari Magnums, or the plastic stock. Instead I wanted it to match my walnut stock Ruger M77 MKII in .338 WM.

The new gun would look similar to the New Ruger Hawkeye African that they make in .375 Ruger, only in .416 Ruger. Slim, trim, lightweight and easy to carry.

So my idea is this:

1) Ruger m77 MKII stainless long action
2) Factory walnut stock, wrist pin, crossbolt, and bedding, front sling swivel removed and filled.
3) .416 barrel 23-24 inches
4) Ruger front sight if I can get it otherwise NECG
5) Barrel band sling swivel
6) Im thinking NECG peep sight for the rear
7) Darken the stainless, not sure what product yet.

My questions are:

Should I add a recoil lug to the new barrel?
Where can I find a source for the reamer for .416 Ruger?

Any thoughts or helpful comments are welcome. I learn as I go working on this stuff.

Will never be cheaper then now! Clint

quote:

Originally posted by 300magman:


Should I add a recoil lug to the new barrel?

I would because a Ruger has vary small recoil lug like Mauser.

But I would get the lug only about an inch out from the action the same as Wby do.

Been working on the stock little bit at a time. Wrist pin epoxied in place as well as crossbolt. Front sling swivel removed and hole filled with black epoxy and finish touched up. Have been debating on the installation of a second crossbolt. Ready for bedding when new barrel gets screwed on

Wood in the stock looks nice. Picture of the stock in my inside work area. Now to order the reamer and a few parts.

If your only going to put one cross bolt in then I think you have put it in the wrong place.
Have a look where the cross bolt or pin is in the winchester featherweights and Remingtons its thru the webbing infront of the trigger not the front lug.

I've never seen a Ruger stock crack behind the recoil lug, they usually crack thru the webbing, that allows the action to come back enough for the tang to start touching the rear of the action inletting and cracking that as well.

To back up what I was saying

Remington BDL, one only crossbolt / pinned thru the rear webbing

http://www.remington.com/~/med...ashx?w=570&bc=ffffff

Winchester Featherweight, one only crossbolt / pinned thru the webbing

http://www.winchesterguns.com/...ght-MID-535109-m.jpg


Like I said if you are only going to install ONE cross bolt you should have put it thru the webbing NOT behind the recoil lug, there should be enough wood there to hold together ...

In any case you should do both for the 416

regards
S&F

Thank you for your reply. I placed it in close approximation to the one that comes from the factory on the Ruger Hawkeye African model like so




Te factory gun was the only Ruger example I had to base it on.

To get a left handed 416 I am in the process of swapping barrels between a LH .375 Ruger stainless laminated Alaskan and a stainless .416 Ruger with Hogue stock. A gunsmith I know has done two swaps already, and has loaned the reamers to another gunsmith for my gun. One of the first two laminated stock guns was glass bedded, the second not. So far no problems with either gun.

I have a brand new .416 Ruger reamer coming in the mail. I almost rented one but I bought it so I could build a couple .416 rugers if need be.

I have been behind on my .416 Ruger project. Here are some project pics. Sorry for pics, new camera and I am not used to it.

PTG .416 reamer


.416 Barrel

Ruger action barrel removed and ready for new barrel.


More to follow.