Ok this is for all you 375 H-H shooters. Mine is a pre 64 model 70 standard grade and it wont shoot good at all. I have changed scopes with a new one thinking it wont hold zero. I have shot factory loads and tried reloader 15, IMR4064, IMR4350 all with 270gr bullet and crimped and not crimped it just shoots all over the place, Left, right, high, low I'm about to stick it in the ground and plant tomatoes around it. What could be the problem? Stock, barrel, have it bedded. I never had a gun that would'nt shoot at least ok then make it better
Someone help!!!!

How bad is it really? How precise are the sights or scope you are using? I'm going thru this with mine...

Dan

I'll shoot one the next might be inch and half high 2 inches left the next inch right the next might be inch low inch and half right the next 2 inchs low inch left and its like this with every thing the scope mount were all done by a gunsmith and done right. I can do it but i thought I would take maybe my mistake out of the picture but no luck. It shot the same with my old scope so I'm thinking that scope is fine now. but after a couple of pounds of powder box of bullet and my shoulder I give up and the barrel is cleaned

I don't know what to say...my best group of 16 rounds the other day was 2 under 1/2 inch and the third 2" away high and right. For me, I'm not sure how much of it is me getting an inconsistant rest or dirty barrel (this one was 2nd group of the day...) vice a load the rifle doesn't like. I always have to consider the recoil too...I'm pretty happy at the moment, but could easily be pulling my shots or losing concentration. My rifle is bedded and floated, a Sako AV on a Rimrock stock. Now I'm mostly trying to get into the velocity ballpark before swapping primers and all. You might try shooting off a Caldwell lead sled...not only does it cut the recoil issue, but it would limit the issue of the front bag getting moved by recoil and not being quite the same for each shot. I tried one but was uncomfortable with it and switched back. Might try 300g Round Nose factory loads too, mine likes them.

Good luck!

Dan

Dan

Sounds like bad bedding. Could also be crown damage. Have it glass bedded and ask the gunsmith to check the crown and re-crown it if appropriate.

I would say you have a bedding problem. I had the same problem with my 375 Dakota and discovered that the wood near the end of the barrel channel was rubbing on the barrel. Once the pressure was eliminated, the rifle started shooting groups in one ragged hole.

I agree with 500 grns advice but would also make sure that there isn't a huge copper build up in the barrel. Another variable you might check is parallax in the scope. I have seen the crosshairs move 2 inches at 100 yds on a scope that was way off on parallax.

465H&H

thanks for all your help but with the standard grade there is a screw in the middle of the forend that pulls the barrel in tight to the wood what do you do about that if you want it to free float or should I put something under the barrel to make it more even pressure the whole length

If you tried it with the barrel screw tight then try it again with it loose. Whatever is causing a problem is found in the last place you look so you need to keep checking.

I would shoot it hand held by gripping the forend and resting that wrist on a bag. That soaks up recoil good and some rifles shoot very well that way.

A friend has had that pattern M70 in 270 Win for a very long time and his was always a very accurate rifle and then it began to sling shots all over. His stock had cracked at the recoil lug and after he glassed it and now its accurate once more.

I almost sold a nice Westerner that would only shoot 1.5 MOA til I did the crown myself. I would go thru a lot of trouble before letting a pre 64 M70 out of my possesion if it were chambered in 375 HH.

I wasnt sure if you could loosen that screw but it makes sense but how do you keep it from getting more loose while your shooting it

It can be many things
When I bought new 458 I put a brand new VX11 1to 4 on it and it was shooting all over the place with whatever load bullet combination I used I just thought it was a bad barrel as it turned out the scope broke on the first or second shot since no 2 bullets ever came close, I for no specific reason put a new Bushnell 2-7 3200 and the the group went MOA
I also had a new browning 375 that wouldn't do any better than 6", it was under warranty so I sent it back and all they did was grind a little of the synthetic stock under the rear tang screw and it went under MOA
I am also a believer of steel bases and rings especially on any gun with recoil
I would initially change scopes, mounts and bases
then try loosening one of the mounting screws on the action to see if that helps

Good luck

The old recipe was tightening the first and last screw to the last ounce and let the middle screw just with a medium tension.

I had the same problem with a 7x57 Ack. Imp.I am inclined to agree with 500 G. about bedding +/or crown.I used Dykem blue to find the stress points on the bedding,recrowned,+ then even though the barrel looked perfect I mixed some Kroil oil with JB compound from Brownell's,+ scrubbed the bore with that.Worked on mine.

I think its bedding. Glass bed the action, check your screw tension, try a couple bullets. Mine shot great with everything, esp after I glass bedded the tupperware and tightened the screws. Shot some good groups with a 1.5x Weaver. Better than 1.5 MOA with almost all bullets. I am assuming you are holding ok - these things ain't 06's. Try some 300 gr Hornady RNs and 270 gr spires. Both shot great with RE15, 4350, and 4320. I shot inside an inch with 4320 and Sierra 250's. about 68-69 grains. Never thought much about crown damage, but it could be! Good luck. BTW, is your headspace good? A friend had a pre 64 with excessive headspace - shot better after rechambering to Ackley. Not the first option obviously.

I used to own a pre 64 in 264 Mag.
First scrub the bbl "really clean" then use Wipe Out.
It shot Factory Winchester amnmo into 8" groups at 100 yards. It shot Remington ammo into 3/4" groups at 100 yards.
Reloads with IMR 4350 shoot good too.
The pre 64 needs to have the front and back action screw tight. The middle screw almost snug.
The barrel ring screw needs to be played with. [I shot a pre 64 in 270 today after adjusting the 5 screws by "feel". It shot about 3/4th inch at 100 yards with Federal 130 Fusion.

It sure sounds like a bedding problem. NE 450 No 2's comments on screw tension are right on! The middle one needs to be tight enough not to fall out, and that's all! I found that my 1949 M70 Super Grade .375 H&H shot best with the forend screw completely removed, so I put the screw in my parts box and used the rifle without it.

Try glass-bedding the action and the first 3" of the barrel channel in front of the receiver. Then, after trying it completely free-floated from that 3" glass pad forward to the tip, if it still will not group, you can play with upward pressure in the forend tip by using a varying number of cut-up business cards until you get the pressure right.

Another recommendation: You mention trying various powders, but you did not mention trying different brands/weights of bullets. Just a guess, but if your bad results came when using Hornady 270-grain bullets, I suggest you try the Sierra 300-grain PSPTBT's and 68 grains of IMR 4064........

Hello 7mm M !
It is my first post after I registered in AR, great site by de way!.
I live in Bariloche, Argentine Patagonia and one of the best places in our country for Red Deer and Wild boar hunting, (plus a fly fishing paradise).
I went throught the same problem as yours with my own Pre 64 (1954) M70 .375 standard grade. I discovered that the problem was in the bedding and that the stock was cracked at the rear, in the small bridge just in front of the trigger opening. Studying the situation, I also found that the reason was that there were no contact between the front shoulder of the action and the front shoulder of stock by 1 mm, and neither on the horizontal plane where the front screw pass. I put a small pieces of brass sheet until I get full contact and, of course, fix the stock cracking, put a bolt there and also put a bolt throught the front stock shoulder. Presto! The end of the flying shots, mainly the first shot from a cold barrel (the most important one) that always went high.
I hope this help you.
My Best wishes (and sorry for my english)
PH

Mashburn,
I think as all the rest have said You need to bed the Rifle..The Crown maybe..Cleaning With Sweet's and Kroil mixture ..Yes..
PatagonHunter..Good Post.. English good..Look for more posts from Ya..
AK

I had the same problem with a Remington Classic .375 H&H. I tried every way of bedding, different scopes, bases, mounts,pounds of variouis powders, primers, and different bullets. It shot patterns. I dumped the rifle, telling the buyer my problem. He duplicated my actions, finally had it re-barrel and that solved his problems.

quote:

Originally posted by nainital:
The old recipe was tightening the first and last screw to the last ounce and let the middle screw just with a medium tension.

This sounds like one of those overlooked little tricks that people have forgotten about or never know about until it's brought up again.

Might be a good place to start.

I have the exact same rifle and I removed the barrel screw completely and it shoots one inch groups or less. Usually tears paper between hits. I did have it bedded. You dont need the barrel screw and my gunsmith says they usually shoot better without them. Just my two cents worth.Dave Riffle has a beautiful pre 64 .375 for sale its 2600.