Hopefully longbob will get a chance to post the pictures I sent him.

Well, Mr. dogleg is going to be introduced to Mr. cutoff disk, and Mr. Mig welder tonight. Other then smashing my trigger finger knuckle everytime I fired a full patch load, the recoil wasn't that bad. Oh, and I had to pick up either the rear sand bags or front rest after every shot as well.

The plinker loads were fun, 470 gr cast over 14, 17.5 and 21 gr unique for 950, 1050 and 1150 fps. Full patch loads were 535 and 600 gr cast over 100 gr varget for 2250 and 2200 fps respectively. The full patch loads didn't group worth a hoot at 50, guess I was pushing them too fast, either that or the stock was massively flexing. I didn't put the barrel lug on, so have a bit of stock work to do before I shoot it again. I also need to see if the sights loosened up. It is on paper though, and that was my goal.

Paul,

How are you going to reattach a new handle? I wanted mine raked back and down ala M-70, but my gunsmith said that was problematic (I had trouble understanding the details without a visual, as he has both of my Enfield actions at this time). So, I'm going to end up with one that goes straight down from the root of the dogleg -- well, not STRAIGHT down, but no backsweep anyway. Basically like the old ACGG Enfield that Jack has posted pics of.

Please provide some pictures when you get it done. I wish I could do my own bolt handle, and headspace / chambering, then I could say I did the whole thing myself.

Good luck,
Todd

I'm going to use a Mig welder. Don't know if the picture of the 350 Rigby is clear enough to show the brownell's bolt on it on the other thread.

I'm going to go with a no sweep back bolt, not sure exactly how it'll finish out as I have a few cut off mauser bolts to play with.

My finger isn't even swollen, so it wasn't that bad, but does need fixing.

Paul H- Cut the dog leg off at the root leaving a small stubb and chamfer the stubb on a grinder. Chamfer your new bolt handle and hold the two pieces together such that a deep vee is formed. Fill the vee with weld and pay alot of attention to the sides. If at all possible, weld it back together with a Tig Welder not a mig and use the hign nickel; content rod that Brownells sells. I've used Mig plenty of times, but you wind up with voids and cracking way too easily. A Tig welder with a pulser if possible works much better. If your not in a hurry, I could knock it out for you!-Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the reply and the tips. I've migged several mauser 98 handles with success. I have had problems with voids when I try and make multiple passes w/o allowing sufficient cooling, but other then that, have been pleased with the results.

A miller syncrowave 185 is on the list of things to get, but likely next year at the soonest. Thanks for the offer, but I've enjoyed doing my own work, other then having Mr. Ricks perform his superb chambering jobs. That said, I'm hoping to have a lathe in the garage before the end of the year to be able to do that work as well

Paul,
Sorry you didn't like the dogleg.. I kept mine, but my stock wrist is VERY swept, and I don't hit the triggerguard with my index finger on this one or my 376.
cheers
jeffe

Paul- Best of Luck! I know it'll come out fine. By the way. Look at the Miller Syncrowave 250 with Pulser. That's what I have. It's a very very nice machine. I bought it mostly for welding aluminum on Harley cases, but it's super on any mode.-Rob

Rob,

I'd love to get a 250, especially because it can go down lower for real thin stuff. That said, it is out of my price range. The 185 looks like alot more machine then the econotig for not much more coin.

IMHO the Miller Syn. 250 Tigrunner is the machine to beat. Far better than my Airco Pulsarc 400 for thin aluminum. Pulsarc is fine for steel. I would 100% xray bolt handle welds since they are critical.

That dog leg bolt handle is the trademark of a P-17 and it should be left alone. Unless you know what you are doing, a weldment joint will not as good like the one piece handle. Good luck and have fun.

I disagree, a properly welded bolt handle will be plenty strong enough. And in a custom rifle you get what you want. And no, 100% penetration isn't needed either, but I am used to ASME standards and sometimes substitute them for common sense.

While I disagree that the dogleg's gotta go (mine doesn't touch me) the weld thing has been going on for a hundred years, and is a pretty wellknown...

Paul,
cut it off, grind it to an angle, and have a ball.. i'll stick to cock on close and dogleg.

jeffe

It's gone. Wish I had access to a digital camera to take a picture.

I've welded several bolts on mauser actions, really isn't that big of a deal.

Need to do some finish filing and polishing and it'll be done.

The stock previously held a 458 lott P-17, and the bolt never hit my finger on firing. The guy who bought it from me did open up a cut the first time he fired it when the dogleg wacked his finger.

All six of the full patch loads caused the bolt handle to wack my knuckle. Considering I plan to work up to even heavier loads, it definately needed to go.

Paul
Does the welded joint on the bolt take bluing ok?

This is one I did by just heating & straightening out the dog leg & a bit of file work to clean it up then polish it.

Doug,
NICE... and if you had posted this 2 months ago, I would have a straight bolt handle@@@

jeffe