BOy, now you guys really did it. I've been fat dumb and happy with my Ruger 416 Rigby and now I hear that some of you have either heard or personally experienced stock cracking problems? I have an early production model ( actually one ofthe very first to roll off the line, it has the swivel in the forarm vice the barrel). It shoots WONDERFULLY, neat little clover holes less than .5" A good friend of mine suggested I end the rifle to Mark Penrod for rework, but I've been reluctant due to the rifle's inherent accuracy. I've put over 100 rounds through it with no problems, but since it will be my primary rifle for a Cape Buffalo hunt, now I'm worried! jorge

jorge,

We have 3 of them and this is what I have found.

1) There should be at least a playing card thickness clearance between the rear tang metal and wood. This also goes for where the stock makes the little curve back to the tang.
2) The stock has cracked on all of ours in the wood that is between the magazine well and the trigger hole. This happened rather soon and was not a problem since we had all of our guns recheckered and refinished. A threaded brass pin through there, with glue, did the job.
3) We had all guns 'steel bedded' and have not seen any more problems. After bedding, make certain that there is no metal to wood/bedding contact at the rear. I feel that alot of the bad cracks on some folks guns have come from the gun moving in the stock and the rear tang contact. Eliminate this with the bedding and clearance. We torque the main and rear bolts with a TQ wrench. 70lbs. front, 65lbs. rear.

Good luck with your rifle. If I can be of further assistance, don't hesitate to contact me.

Cheers,
SAM
eclemmons@hotmail.com Type RUGER RIFLE in the message block.

Thanks for the input Sam. Upon inspection, my rifle does seem to have a decent amount of clearance at the tang/wood intersection. As I stated previously, I've put over 100 rounds through it with no problems. I'll check the torque on the front and rear screws as you suggested. I'll drop you an email soon also. Incidentally, are your Rugers relatively new? mine dates from the early 90s. jorge

Yes. Ours are the newer (thin barrel) models. I don't know if there is a difference in the models as far as the stock is concerned.

SAM

I have had to repair cracks in Winchester, CZ, Rem and Ruger...All factory stocks are prone to breakage (spliting) as the factories do not enlet them as all factory stocks are basically drop ins...

The Ruger system is the best of all for recoil as it pulls the gun back into the wood regardless of bad bedding, but if the tang is not relieved about 20 thousands then the tang will naturally split, all stocks need that clearance in a big bore...Most need glass bedding and cross bolts

If I were you, I would not mess with a gun as accurate as yours....I would however install two cross bolts in it, drill out and fill the tang with some steel bed, give it the clearance and let it go at that, that should surfice for the next decade or two...

Any problems with the new Ruger .416 Express rifles? I got one about a year ago and love it. Just wish they made one in .470 Capstick... The Winchester is too expensive for my blood.

Beau