Do you crimp your .375 loads?

Yes I do crimp my .375 loads. I use the Hornady 300 gr RN at the minute.

I turn a couple of thousands off my expander ball to give the bullet a snugger fit and then I use a powder that pretty well fills the case and I crimp very very lightly...

I crimp my 375's also... I use a cutom crimping die made by Lee for crimping only... I shoot 300 gr. with a max load...I keep the bullet where it belongs in the shell...

Mike

Freedom is not Free

[ 07-10-2003, 05:27: Message edited by: retreever ]

The new Lee crimp dies work neat, and I sure use them for any leverguns or bolt actions over .338, just not worth taking a chance on. Ray's method will work also.

I use the Lee Factory Crimp die with excellent results. I used to think the "must crimp" line started with 375 and up, but I am closely watching my new 340 Weatherby for bullet creep. It's been ok so far, but that rifle's recoil might require it. jorge

I should have also added the reason I'm asking...

I have room to seat the bullets further out, but the cannelure on the 300GR Partiton is where it is

But .375 is about where I think that the need for a crimp starts...

PS I don't have a Lee Factory crimper..maybe i should get one?

I do on the 300 gr Speer Tugsten bullets because they are so short. I didnt on the first batch and they were sliding all over the place, so I did on the last batch. When I tested them(crimped/non-crimped) I had the same point of impact. That cleared it up for me, crimped. On X bullets I use compressed loads and never bothered to.

Yes I do...

Also with a Brno, and bullets creeping around when left in the magazine for 3-4 shots.

Lee crimp tool: can't beet the simplcity, and it works!

I also use the Lee Factory Crimp die on my .375 H&H.

Gatehouse,

Ditto on the Lee factory crip die. Best $10.00 you will ever spend. Bullets do not, repeat do not require a cannelure to be crimped by this die.

When in doubt, crimp it.

Bob

Yes to crimping -- with Lee die as well. Swift A-frames would push the bullet back out (compressed loads, .375 Weatherby, at the cannelure whether RHINO's, Swift's, Hornady, Woodleighs) and I buy the logic that recoil eventually changes OAL without crimping.

wthbymag

No. I use a smaller expander button on heavy-recoiling rifle loads, including the .450 Alaskan in a tubular magazine!~!

As I recall Saeed did an extensive study on crimping and found that crimping improved accuracy on every caliber that he tried. I crimp everything except black powder long range shells for single shots. Lee will make up a custom factory crimp die for $25 for any caliber and they work great.

Although I do crimp some heavy calibers, I really see no need for it, unless your culling elephants or buffalo, and keep top loading your magazine...I see no reason to leave rounds in a magazine for 3 or 4 firings..

I beleive its one of those misconceptions thats been overworked, printed to often, advised by too many, and has become accepted by the hunter masses.....

I will qualify my statment by stating that reloading dies must be proper for your particular gun and most of these bullet set back problems that are caused by recoil are because your expander button is too large.. furthermore, its always a good idea to use a powder that fills the case to the neck or more....

I have done a lot of reloading for the 375 H&H, except all the reloads were for 235 grain speers at near max. I am a clean freak, and after decapping I clean the brass (separate decapper). Then use rcbs spray lub and then resize. Then clean again (boil in simple green, and clean hot water then dry). Then prime, fill with powder and then seat bullet. Never had one back out, but the 235 grain loads don't really kick that much. But there is NO lub on the cartridge (inside or out). I didn't crimp even with seating die.

I crimp all my reloads from the 30.06 and up, if not for recoil but for consistent accuracy and uniform reloads, Lee Factory crimp dies.Les