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I'm looking for someone who has/had rechambered a Ruger no. 1 tropical in any of the 378 (378/416/460) series weatherby cartridges. I need some real world experience before I embark on this project. Is this just a rebarrel, or is it more involved, given the large case-head size? | ||
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I don't know anyone personally that has done it, but since it is available in 416 Rigby, size is not the issue, one thing for sure, it's gonna hurt! Look down a couple of posts and there is one on this subject. DRSS(We Band of Bubba's Div.) N.R.A (Life) T.S.R.A (Life) D.S.C. | |||
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My other No 1 is a 458 lott. I would venture the recoil from a 378 is probably comparable. The recent thread on 375's deals alot with the 375 weatherby, an entirely different beast. There was a kid, positron, that used to post here. He did one in 460 weatherby (I'm not that masochistic). I just want the 378 for an ultra long range 375. | |||
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I've got a Ruger No.1 rebarreled to .510/460 Wby (500A2 with long throat for 750-grain A-Max seated out to 4.760" COL), AKA ".510JAB." It is manageable. The .378 Wby would be a pussycat in comparison. Just use a long and heavy barrel after you take the barrel off a .416 Rigby Ruger No.1H Tropical. A screw on muzzle brake is good on the 500A2, and would be even more effective on .378 Wby. Weight the butt to balance the barrel and get a good recoil pad. Glass bed the stock and there is enough room for a brass pin to reinforce the wrist, rearward of the tang. Bell&Carlson used to make a synthetic for the Ruger No.1, hope they still do, as I have been meaning to get one before I break the stock on my .510/460Wby. Solder and screw (8x40) a picatinny rail to at least a 6" portion of straight cylindrical shank on your custom heavy .378 Wby stainless barrel. Then use 3 or 4 rings to hold the scope on. | |||
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Read the post under Ruger #1 400 Weatherby, it has links to positrons 460 project. I have had fair experience with 378 in WTBY Mark 5's and I will shoot a 460 any day over the 378, (from the bench). The recoil impulse is much sharper/harder/faster than most other big bores to me. I know several veteran big bore shooters who feel the same. The #1 is fairly light to begin with but if you like your Lott, you will love the 378! DRSS(We Band of Bubba's Div.) N.R.A (Life) T.S.R.A (Life) D.S.C. | |||
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If you're looking for someone to do it, I'm pretty sure Gary Reeder in Flagstaff has built a few .460 Wby #1s. He built my 9.3x74R #1 and it's a jewel. Here ya go: http://www.reedercustomguns.com/custom_rifles/beast.htm ______________________ RMEF Life Member SCI DRSS Chapuis 9,3/9,3 + 20/20 Simson 12/12/9,3 Zoli 7x57R/12 Kreighoff .470/.470 We band of 9,3ers! The Few. The Pissed. The Taxpayers. | |||
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You guys are the best. I can always count on getting some good information here. Thanks. -Albert | |||
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What I would do is to rechamber a 375 H&H. Shoot some different loads in it and see if it is really something you want to continue with. If it is, then get it rebarreled. I figure you will save about $400 give or take by rechambering...just my .03 worth. | |||
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At Gary's prices, probably more like $ 1,000. He's good, not cheap. ______________________ RMEF Life Member SCI DRSS Chapuis 9,3/9,3 + 20/20 Simson 12/12/9,3 Zoli 7x57R/12 Kreighoff .470/.470 We band of 9,3ers! The Few. The Pissed. The Taxpayers. | |||
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akalinin If accuracy is the goal you must have the reaner cut the freebore just over bullet diameter. The 378 and 460 have the longest freebore of all the Wbys. 85 grains of Varget will give around 2650 to 2700 with 270 grain bullets, very accurate and is about 10 grains under a max load of Varget. No fillers and Fed 215s. 4064 is also good. With these sort of reduced loads you often have to play about a bit. 85 grains also goes well with 225 Hornadys and again is in in the 2650 range and about 15 grains under max for that powder/bullet. 91 grains is in the mid 2800s, at least in my Mark Vs Blast of the above loads is soft and covers from 35 Whelen to 375 H&H. A couple of grains more powder and you have the 375 Ruger For full power loads and long shooting I believe a muzzzle brake is needed, if only for the fact that it stops the rifle jumping out of control with a loose hold. Mike | |||
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I had a #1 in 460 WBY for a while. I found the recoil to be much worse than my MKV 378. I guess stock design is the key. Most think its the other way but for me the 460 was a fair bit worse. No brake on the 378 and 300s at just over 3000 fps. | |||
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That's good advice. I will order the barrel from Pac Nor, and ask him to free bore it also. The barrel will be 28 - 30 inches, probably a number 7 or 8 profile as I would like some additional weight. I find No.1 to be a bit light overall. I'm not sure about having it threaded for a muzzle brake yet, but I have thought about it. | |||
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Error in my post, but should be obvious...4064..not 4964 | |||
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akalinin, The guy that does Mike's and my barrels here in Australia, has several big WBY reamers. The key to accuracy as Mike said is the reamer must cut the free bore JUST over bullet diameter. If they do that, you will have a great shooting gun. 378 POWER Verbera!, Iugula!, Iugula!!! Blair. | |||
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TRUE DAT! | |||
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