Okay,

AHR has advised me they do not currently chamber rifles for the .22 Short so I have opted for a design change. It also did not hurt that a coworker offered to sell me his old .22 for $400!

I have also decided I will build the more powerful .22 Long rather than the less effective "short." I am going to do the work myself...probably "hand reaming it." I took possesion of my co-workers gun 30 minutes ago! It has begun!

I will keep everyone posted.


PS - Axel - thank you for being the inspiration to me. Care to have a friendly race and see which one of us completes their project first and gets pictures of themselves proudly holding up their new rifle?

PS#2 Does anyone have any once fired .22 Long cases they would sell cheap? What size primer and which powder is best for this round?

Like Axel, I prefer Woodleigh bullets exclusively. Any loading data anyone can supply will be appreciated.

RCBS has not responded to my email about loading dies for this cartridge so I may have to go with Redding or Lee.

Wish me luck! I am off to begin "hand reaming."

[ 02-02-2003, 02:46: Message edited by: Pecos45 ]

I think I know why Axel does'nt really own any guns, all than "hand reaming" has made him go blind.

I do more lurking here than posting, but this is some of the best stuff I've read in a long time.
Keep it up Pecos.
Laughing my a$$ off in the Yukon.

What twist rate are you going to use Pecos? As this is to be a DGR(?), I am guessing you are going for the heavier bullets, 30 or 35 grainers?

Kristofer

[ 02-02-2003, 03:14: Message edited by: KBGuns ]

Pecos, what knuckle does one typically stop at when "hand reaming", and what is the preferred lube to keep chatter or galling to a minimum?

[ 02-02-2003, 03:32: Message edited by: Carnivore ]

Pecos45 - I want to share some concerns for your project: since you moved from the 22 short to the 22 long, recoil might be something to address. Might I suggest that you look at installing a muzzle break?; many excellent models are available and the right one could allow you to move up to the mighty 22 long rifle, thereby increasing your range and killing potential. Also, you might want to consider mercury recoil reducers to tame that beastly recoil - maybe a past recoil pad too - be safe - KMule

KMule - Recoil? Do you guys mean this gun could hurt me? I don't like recoil! I won't even start my lawnmower because it has a "recoil starter." (My wife starts it for me. )

Anyway, I'll look into the various recoil absorbing devices you suggest. Thanks KM.

My neighbor across the fence gave me an old lawnmower muffler from his garage and suggested this could work both as muzzle break AND silencer. Should I contact the ATF and see what they think about this idea? Or maybe I could just call it a "quieter" and not a "silencer."

I'm starting to realize why Axel needs all this technical advice. This isn't as easy as I thought.

Pecos45, What are your plans for accurracy enhancements for your new custom rifle? I've heard that a Boss can really help. Duck tape should hold it on ,add super glue if you decide to bore it out to a long rifle.

Wax - After checking my budget for this project, I don't know if I'll have anything left over for "accuracy enhancements." You know how everything always costs more than you initially think. <sigh> I've already learned I will have to do something about the recoil of this brute when it's completed. That won't be cheap.

Anyway, I guess instead of accuracy, I'll probably need to just concentrate on "volume of fire" and jack off as many rounds as quickly as I can.

Hand reamers such as Axel and myself are usually pretty good at jacking things off. So I imagine I will be pretty formidable, regardless of my accuracy.

This saga is getting fantastic.

Pecos must be building a single shot instead of a re-peter.

Pecos since you seem to be going all out on this project might I suggest you have the barrelled action cryogenically treated so as to eliminate as much metal stress as possible. I would also suggest steel bedding the action the same as a 416 Rigby so you don't split the stock. Also, if you're that concerned about recoil bothering you with those loads you're looking at take a look at one of the Decelerator type pads. That should help tame the recoil down to something like a .22 blank level. Good luck. I can't wait to see the pics.

[ 02-02-2003, 08:05: Message edited by: mikeh416Rigby ]

Pecos, "variable twist rate" I think your'e going to need something better than Ky lube! And watch out for the bendix too.

Pecos,
Perhaps you should look into a .22 cal pellet rifle. It would bee almost recoiless and much cheaper to shoot.

Pecos45 - I will be following the development of your rifle as I have dreamed of a similar project for quite some time; if my memory is correct, you will need to anneal those cases to allow maximum case life - I've heard about the technique using the propane torch but am not thoroughly familiar with it so I don't want to post misinformation here (in case some youngsters or inexperienced handloaders are reading this) - as far as what twist rate, try one of those gain twist barrels - I did an internet search and read in a magazine that gain twist really works well with the 30-35 grain pills in the cartridge you are working on - also, since you are putting a lot of thought into this, check into one of those protective metal finishes for your rifle; will protect in bad weather and should help the rifle hold its value longer (better resale) - there may be someone in the upper midwest that will buy it from you down the road - oh, don't forget to post your load data, the rifle specs, chrony readings and photos - if I seem to ask for too much, please remember that I too dream of this rifle set up - thanks - KMule

Pecos,
This is one of the simpler changes I can think of,,,, as it's just like making an enfield into a single shot bmg... one just cuts the barrel for headspace, in this case off the rim... and leave it finger tight... see, that way, with another .010 clearence, you can accomodate the wildest rim thickness you can imagine... even my swagged down 41 egyptian-to-22-jeffe works, but I am loosing about 45% of the brass during resizing.. I learned to take the seating stem out of the die, before swagging them down, as then rimfire's tend to overheat of you do them too fast, and goes off....
But back to the fingertight headspace on the 22 LR,L,22,short, and even CB gallery caps. If you machine a krag cocking piece on the jc higgens (i prefer the sears brand, but it was the only thing I could extorht from my friend at work, that I saw dorking the boss) you can simply arc weld the bolt closed, to eliminate the possibility that the bolt might move, impacting headspace timing. Then, you cut the threads, at least, .015" past where the shoulder was. This allows for perfect engagement of the rim, thereby insuring perfect headspace, no matter how thick the rim. Yes, it's esstenially now a singleshot, but with the noise and recoil of the might 22LR, who doesn't need a break between shots?
I found that the higgins stock, being of a rather hard spruce or fir, it a great candidate for adding weight. Since it was so thin in the wrist, We experiemented with a hot glue gun, and fishing weights. I felt that since the rifle was at 6.5# prior to my modifications, I knew that my wrists could handle AT LEAST another 9 oz. In practice, I find the 7# and up rifles to be too heavy for an all day carry, and, seriously, who needs the extra knockdown past the daisey red rider? I tired, at first, to glue these to the wrist, but just 2 1oz weights made the grip too thick for me to even contemplate the recoil with a 1/2 grip.
At the range, I keep a 4" pipe wrench in my tool belt (which also keeps my butt crack from showing, most of the time) as after the offensive blast and recoil for 4 to 8 LRs, the barrel is far too hot for my sensitive trigger fingers. I just grab the barrel, lean on the handle of the pipe wrench, after ensuring that that 7+lbs bench monster is well sandbagged, to prevent it from falling, and turn that barrel the whole 6# of torque that I twist it down between letting that rimfire roar. I keep my dad's spit can around, to dunk the chamber in, as I am rather nervous about the latent heat from the last round.

I have found, for anything less than serious practice, the CB "cap" Gallery ball is an acceptable level of recoil, as long as I wear my past recoil shield, and screw in the muzzle brake. The blast, however, even with the "quite brake" (it REALLY is quiter than no brake.. REALLY) is still intolerable, and I am working up to 11 rounds in one session, or 2 sessions a week, of 6 round each.. but the gun IS 7+lbs, and it's taking it's toll on my carrying it too and from the bench.

it was a nice thing, to find out that the threads I cut on the barrel with my dad's rigid pipe threader, matched the ones I bored into the reciever!!!

Jeffe
(DO NOT FOLLOW THIS "ADVICE")

If anyone knows a better way of doing this, please step right up... be sure to have the serial number off the smelter that forged the barrel, and the power hammer than pressed the rest of the gun. After all, if you don't have your basic facts, how could you be a gunsmith?

Pecos please don't give up on this project. You need to follow your dream. If you give up now, you'll spend the rest of your life wondering "what if". My God man, take hold of your senses! If needed, I'll provide you with the phone number of a support groups that specializes in cases like yours.