Gentlemen



Thank you for all the great posts.

Here is what I did.

I made a new batch 20 pcs. I used my CHAMFERING TOOL from RCBS on the inside. I was not able to get a tool for the outside. I live in a small town. I will however like to get one

Then after seating the bullet I took the Sizing dies and removed the expander/decapping unit and gave it another go about half way.

This resulted in this small crimp into the cannelure. Very little force was applied.











I guess using a die I another calibre would result in a tighter crimp into the cannelure. I will try this next time.



Cheers,



Andr�

Andre,

I think I understand what you did. You did not touch the shoulder did you? If I understand you correctly you did not, and the crimp looks pretty good.

mrlexma,

Listen to Robgunbuilder for he knows of what he speaks!

ASS_CLOWN

AC



I did not touch the shoulder.

Looks pretty nice eah.

I might try it out with a .375 H&H die when I get one.

I just came from the range where I shot my friends, PhilipDK, Mosin Nagat sniper 7,62x54R.

The rifle is great fun but accuracy was not acceptable due to the scope mount. It will have to be re-worked and re-mounted.

We also shoot the 6,5x55 and the 8x57JS







Cheers,



Andr�

Gentlemen

I would like to know what process/tool is being used to make the case neck get real close to the bullet.
Ammunition from makers like Kynoch and WR looks like it has been squeezed with some kind of tool to get that look.
Why, how and what does this ?

This is a picture of one of Kynoch's and one of my handloads




Cheers,

Andr�

two things
1: your crimp is too high....
2: you should use a chambefering tool on the brass

there aint a lee crimp collet over .458, iirc

jeffe

Jeffeosso

Please explain it to me like I am a tree year old
My reload is the buttom one. The one with the newer looking bullet.

What do I need to do and where do I get the tool to do it ??

Cheers,

Andr�

Andre,

My camera doesn't do such nice close-ups but here we go.



From the top (a few have been in the magazine under fire you may notice flatten points):



Singular (maybe a better close-up I don't know)



From the top:



If I tell you how I crimp them I will get accused of everything under the sun, and flamed!

I will send you a PM. Those are 570 gr Woodleigh SP by the way. I would not listen to jeffeosso, as I don't think he knows of what he is speaking, at least with regard to a proper crimp on a 500 Jeffery, Woodleigh bullet hunting cartridge.

ASS_CLOWN

Canuck,

I'll let Andre cut and paste the PM if he wants to. It is his thread and his call.

You know I asked him today what bullet he used in that stock 270 Winchester, and he did say he was using Matchkings! That cartridge and them bullets are IMRPESSIVE to say the least.

ASS_CLOWN

You don't need a crimp like the one on the Kynoch load.



jeffe is right, too, in that you should lightly chamfer your brass inside and out at the case mouth with a specialized tool that's big enough for the Jeffery case, and you should also seat your bullet a bit farther out.



Not sure where to get a chamfering tool for that cigar sized monster, though. The biggest cases I use are in .458 Lott (I'm still patiently waiting for my .500 A-Square).



Also, you may already know this, but it's best to seat and crimp in two separate stages. After seating to the correct depth, remove the seating stem from the die and screw it down by eighths of a turn until you have a nice roll type crimp into the bullet's cannelure.



The Kynoch cartridge, even though it has a death-grip crimp on the bullet (which, as I said, is unnecessary and will shorten case life) is crimped at the right spot.



Edited: P.S.: Some people also like the collet crimping dies (but again finding the right size may not be easy), but I don't think they're necessary to get a good solid crimp. The crimping shoulder inside the die has always worked fine for me.

mrlexma,



Kynoch has a very good reason to crimp the 500 Jeffery as they do. If you had more experience with these cartridges in the field you would understand why that "special" crimp is desireable. You will not get it from a standard seating die either, which uses a chamber and nothing more. But then again, I am just an ASS_CLOWN, what do I know? I mean it isn't like I have any experience with these cartridges in the field or at the range.



As far as deburring tools go, just by one for the 50 BMG and you are good to go.



ASS_CLOWN

If the bullet your using has a cannalure groove, the bullet is seated too far.

Andre,
look at the kkynock... the groove is slightly about the case, right?

don't set your seating die QUITE so low... I like to do crimping as an additional operation, btw

see what happens if you back off your seater 1/3 to 2/3 a turn and then try crimping as another operation

that means, turn your die UP a turn, seat the bullet, then reset for crimp

with the 500 jeffe, though, i've found the brass VERY sensitive to crimp.. that is, if you are using a taper crimp, it could squah the brass.

if you have and in/out side cahmberfering tool, use it... that means placing a bevel on the top edges of the brass.

i am always happy for someone that is a true brother in the 500 jeffe club

jeffe

Gentlemen

Thank you very much for all the help.
I would like to answer a few questions:

Chanuk the camera I am using is a Minolta E323 Dim Age 3,2 mega pixel.
I got this camera from my wife whom also gave me my RCBS reloading kit.

Jeffeosso I am using a CHAMFERING TOOL from RCBS but only on the inside due to the lack of size. I will get a bigger one today if I can.

I will make a new batch today and not set the bullet so deep.

I know why Kynoch gives their ammunition that special crimp. That is due to the recoil and the fact that the bullet are more then likely to get hammered deeper into the case ! Do you agree ?

AC thank you very much for your PM I will with your permission post some of it think that it sounds like a good method.

I seat the bullets to a depth which places the case mouth at the middle to near the top (business end of bullet being the top) of the bullet's cannelure groove.

Next I install the full length sizing die for a 300 Winchester Magnum, mine happens to be a RCBS, with the decapper / expander ball removed. I only screw the full length sizing die in 4 or 5 threads and I leave it loose. I then place a loaded cartridge in the shell holder and bring it up against the die. The die body is ~ 0.511" diameter which clears the bullet (it DOESN'T clear the Woodleigh 600 gr PPSP though) and the chamfer on the belt bore does the crimping. It takes some force to crimp the case mouth, and it typically "pops" when it actually crimps, but you can see the results in the pictures I posted. It works very well and did not cost me a dime!

You may want to have someone make a custom crimping die for you, which would work in a similar manner. I would recommend though that it utilize the full stroke of the press as crimping would undoubtedly be simpler and you would not have to worry about overtraveling and crushing the case, which is a real problem with my improvised method.

Good luck, and if you want to see pictures I can do that, just let me know. < !--color-->


Gentlemen please do not turn this thread into an argument with AC to weather or not he has or have had a .500 AHR.
Lets stay focused.

I will be going to the shooting range today and shoot the bullets that I have not yet reloaded.
Pictures will be posted if they are worthy


Cheers,

Andr�

The answer is USE a COLLET CRIMPING die in a decent reloading press. You can adjust them to produce just such a crimp. I think Lee will make you one for a .500 Jefferery for about $25. I make deep crimps like these all the time using a $50K collet holder called a Hardinge Lathe. Ol AC is correct in that this type of crimp is quite necessary in a DGR if you use a powder charge that isn't 105% case capacity and will allow the bullet in the mag to set back under recoil. Hey- AC, I thought you said you never actually took posession of your 500 AHR are these just some bullets you just happen to own? Just curious, not flaming. -Rob

Robgunbuilder,

Quote:

---

are these just some bullets you just happen to own?

---

To answer your question, yes. They are a portion of the 130+ cartridges in that caliber I own.



here is a picture of most of them (there are a few more empties laying on the reloading bench):







On the right we have Woodleigh 600 gr PPSP, on the left Woodleigh 570 gr SP, and there are (5) 450 gr Barnes Originals mixed in with the 570 gr Woodleigh. That is a Woodleigh box of 600 gr PPSP at the top.



Now I will leave this thread to run it's course.



Have a great weekend,

ASS_CLOWN

Lee cannot make a crimp die for a case that is larger than .580".

That is the reply that I got when I asked them.



Maybe someone from the .50 BMG crowd might know of a crimping tool.

Then take one to a machinist, pay him $25 and bore the lee die out. There is more than enough metal. Hell I'll do it for $25.-Rob

Ross Seyfried has repeatedly written that he never crimps any of his cases at all. He relies only on proper neck sizing to hold his bullets in place, even in DG double and magazine rifles.

Proper neck sizing is important, but I have always thought a nice roll crimp into a good cannelure provided insurance against bullet movement under recoil. A-Square's manual "Any Shot You Want" recommends just such a practice. The death-grip, Kynoch-type collet crimp works just fine, but isn't necessary. It's just more work and is tough on the brass to boot.

Each of us has to make up his own mind on this based on his own experience.