As soon as I get my information etched on all of my tooling and reamers, it is off to Rusty's Road house for well built 'er guns.

Acquaintance needs to borrow my new style 375 Weatherby Magnum reamer.

Anyway, I asked my wife for a CZ Kevlar stock for the family 416 Rigby for Christmas. Did you do a pillar/skim bed combination on your kevlar stock(s)?

I was thinking of titanium putty bedding the receiver and first few inches of the barrel (i.e. to the end of the chamber), and then filling things in to the end of the forearm with Permatex Black RTV(Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicon sealant.

What say you? Should I bed in that lump of metal under the rear express sights?

Hey Bro' JohnDart,

Mighty nice of you.
Rusty has one of the new .375 Weatherby reamers by Manson, so he won't miss that.

CZ Kevlar stock: The bedding block has pillar functionality.
I dropped one of the .416 Rigby CZ rifles into a Kevlar stock and just did away with the F-Block.
The recoil lug on the barrel settled into the ready-made recess in the forearm, no-touchie.
Barrel was free-floated throughout.
Primary action lug bottomed out on the aluminum bedding block.
Tang had good relief.
Nice fit all around, top and bottom metal,
And the barrel channel was a good enough fit, generous free-float, for the standard CZ contour of the .416 Rigby,
made for it on purpose, after all.
So I shot it like that, simple drop-in, zero bedding work.
It put three shots into 0.75" at 100 yards with my handloads.


I have not used a secondary recoil lug in the CZ Kevlar stock yet.
Nor do I think it is necessary for anything of up to and including .510 caliber.
I plan to do a 500 Mbogo Short with a B&C Medalist stock for an M98.
Same bedding block as on the CZ Kevlar, basically same stock.

On walnut or laminate wood stocks, Marinetex is what Rusty uses. I use JB Weld.

Just put aside that F-block and try it as a simple drop in to the CZ Kevlar stock.
If bedding is needed, try just the first few inches of barrel ahead of the receiver, free-float the rest.

The CZ .375/404 JS, in CZ Kevlar stock, has full barrel channel bedding, no barrel lug.
I will sand out the Marinetex distally if free-floating is needed: Dan Lilja No.6-fluted barrel is pretty stiff.
Then I will add bedding of action if needed, but for now, it is steel on aluminum, and hopefully settled in by now.
I have accuracy testing to do now that I have Hornady reloading dies.

That sounds good. I generally use Devcon titanium putty with a Marine Tex skim coat per Norm Chandler. Yes, I did talk to a Marine. No, he did not show me his tatoos.

I think I will spot it in with Prussian Blue/Purple, and grind down the high spots. Then make the aluminum block the pillars. Go forward to the recoil lug, flip a quarter whether or not to bed the first three inches of barrel.

Throw away the effing F piece ("Oh lawd almighty, I am free at last, free at last, free at last").

No cross bolts; thank you God.

I had Dave (Kiff) re-grind my 375 WBY reamer to the new pattern as well. Much better accuracy than in de' olden days.

John Charlie,
I got confused. My .375/404 JS has only the first 3 inches of barrel near the action bedded full contact,
quite precisely 3 inches by Rusty McGee,
and is free-floated beyond that.
But it does have a Brockman forend sling stud buried under epoxy at the end of the barrel channel.
And I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express at least once, sometime ago.
And no effing F block, no barrel lug at all.
Otherwise it is just dropped into the CZ Kevlar stock.
Haven't decided yet whether to add some more bedding between the action and the aluminum.

FWIW, big bro', I have found that the various "steel bed" concoctions tend to expand and contract at the same rate as the barrel steel. For that matter, so does Marine-Tex.

I really like the (very expensive) Devcon Titanium putty for bedding on sniper rifles and Nitro Express rifles; where there is more on the line than a missed shot.

One trick that has worked in the past for me is to wrap the barrel in 0.100" plumbers tape (I got mine from Brownells). After that end to end bedding is fully set up, I have then put Black or Red high temperature RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicon in as a skim coat. The stock stays as stiff as if you mixed in ten crushed Viagra (100 mg) pills with your choice of bedding material, and the RTV tends to absorb and dampen the tuning fork like barrel vibrations ("All the world is a spring." Rene DesCarte).

This futzing around with bedding jobs is just one long chemistry/metallurgy/physics experiment. Maybe the work and consequent thinking will stave off Alzheimers for a few weeks...

PS Thank you for giving me "permission" to deep six the effing "F" block.