I have a question on the ZKK 602 barrel hold down screw at the barrel lug.

What have you guys found to work best for accuracy?

Presently, there is some clearance and the barrel can be pulled down giving it a curve. I don't think this is desireable or the original intent, but I'm guessing.

I haven't attached a dial indicator yet but there is some definite movement downward movement of the barrel when the barrel screw is tightened.

I am guessing that a person would like zero clearance at the barrel lug/retaining screw area (between the forend and barrel mount). To correct this problem, should the barrel be free of any pressure in the barrel channel(original pressure point at forend cleared of wood contact) prior to bedding the area around the barrel screw/lug?

Once the new bedding has cured, a person could then experiment with accuracy - I.E. add forend pressure if required.

Normally I would free float the barrel entirely, but the barrel screw is an area I have no experience with.

BTW - would the area between the receiver and the barrel screw mount be free floated?

I have had best luck with full contact bedding of the barrel from receiver forward to the barrel lug, then free floating from there forward on the forend.

Nothing will move or flex then, when the forend screw is tightened, and it should be only just barely snug. No white knuckles there.

[ 10-08-2003, 10:01: Message edited by: DaggaRon ]

I would test fire groups with it prior to glass bedding and find out where it shot the best by turning the screw one turn at a time and then bed it accordingly...I bed a big bore much the same as Ron indicated.

Thanks guys.

Well after looking at the barrel hold down area, I felt that there was too much barrel pull down if the screw was tightened down to a snug tension. I believe by not torquing down the screw (leaving a clearance between the stock and the barrel mount) a person would experience irregular results down range since the screw may loosen thus effecting the barrel vibration.

I decided to clay fill the barrel cut out where the special nut dovetails into the barrel and bed this area without the screw in place. This would remove what I believe is excessive clearance between the barrel and stock. Once cured, I'll remove the clay and cleanup the area (screw hole etc.). Then reinstall the barrel screw nut in the dovetail and install the barrel assembly etc. and finally tighten the screw down snuggly. This effort will enable me to uniformly tension the barrel screw those minimizing the potential for the screw to loosen. It will also prevent me from grossly moving the barrel.

I believe I can use the forend of the stock (presently appling pressure to the barrel)to adjust the performance of the rifle.

Well see how it shoots and hopefully its okay as it is.

Thanks guys.

JJP,
Why do all that before you know if you have a problem, you could create a problem!!

Well, the barrel was being pulled down far too much. This creates a trough and stresses the barrel unnecessarily.