THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM BIG BORE FORUMS

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I wonder if forumites can suggest some lead formulas for the 500 NE and 585 nyati cast bullets, about 1500 fps.

Plus what do you suggest for lube.

I was thinking of wheel weights with 3% antimony added (solder bars).

Either that, or I was going to go with 75% wheel weights mixed with 25% linotype.

I want something softer than pure linotype because people tell me pure linotype breaks up on shoulder bones, it being much more brittle than wheel weight alloys.

 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I'd use wheelweights with tin added, about 1:20. If you need them to be fairly hard just drop them out of the mould into a bucket of water. They won't shatter either way, but air cooled may lead the bore at the speed you want to drive them. As for lube it's hard to beat Lee tumble lube if they don't need to be resized. If you're gonna run them through a sizer then it's hard to beat the old 50/50 alox/beeswax. RCBS rifle lube is this, I believe as is Lee's stick lube.
 
Posts: 187 | Location: Nuevo Mexico | Registered: 15 May 2001Reply With Quote
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At 1500fps you can use PURE LEAD. I have succesfully driven PURE LEAD bullets at over 2000 fps using a coating of Corbin Dip lube and some graphite powder with no leading of the bore. The only problem may be that the twist of your rifle is fast enough to cause the soft bullets to jump the rifling leading to inaccuracy. These things expand like you would not believe! If you have problems with pure lead try 1:20 tin:lead. I make this mix using pure tin and pure lead. You can get pure tin from Buffalo Arms. If this doesn't work go to Linotype and let it reach full hardness. Use SPG lube. I've found that the only thing you can do is experiment till you find a combo that works. However, make sure the bullets are at least .001 over groove diameter for accuracy.-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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I've cast and shot a fair # of bullets, and all I use is pure wheelweights. So long as you cast hot, there will be no problems with fill out. You can drop the bullets in a 5 gallon bucket of water if you want them harder (bhn 18-22), or drop them on a cloth and let them air cool for softer bullets (bhn 11-13).

I'm partial to the water quenched wheelweights, and shoot them between 1100 and 2000 fps in revovlers and single shot pistols. Unless you are using black powder, I'd use LBT blue or Appache blue for commercial lubes, or brew up your own w/ a 50/50 mix of moly/lythium high pressure grease and beeswax. It is a bit soft, and a bit messy, but I find it to provide exceptional accuracy.

 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul H:
Hi Paul,
I'm with you on the water quenched wheel weights. They will cast very hard and will shoot very well. I use the LBT Blue lube also. Luckily I bought a dozen tubes of the lube. Is it still available? I shoot 615 grain bullets in my 500 A-Square at 2400 fps and 500 grain cast bullets at 2500fps in my 470. With a round nose mould this combo would be great for 500 Nitro loads or 585 Nyati loads for a start. As Rob mentioned from this point you can try tuning the bullet to your needs.

470 Mbogo

 
Posts: 1247 | Location: Sechelt B.C. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I'm new to this casting my own bullets thing also but I did try something last night. I took my .590" bullets that I slow cooled (dropped them on a towel out of mold) and oven hardened them at 475 degrees then dumped them in a cooler full of cold tap water.

To test their hardness against the slow cooled bullets, I held one slow & one quick cooled bullet in each hand and then hit them together as fast as I could (not very sceintific, sorry). The slow cooled bullet looked like the surface of the moon with all the dents & depressions but the quick cooled bullet looked unmarred. My mix is WW with some 95/5 soder added.

I will oven harden & quick cool all my cast bullets from now on, that's for sure.

 
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by BMG:
Hi BMG,
If you would like to shorten the process up get a five gallon bucket full of water with a soaked sponge floating on the top and drop your bullets from the mold onto the sponge. They will roll off and tumble to the bottom of the bucket without damage and will be just as hard or harder than your oven teateded bullets plus your chicken will taste better.
Take care,
470 Mbogo
 
Posts: 1247 | Location: Sechelt B.C. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I don't have the mix in front of me right now, but I like Lyman's No.2 mix-a mix of pure lead and 50-50 solder, the exact mix is in Lyman's manual. I just cannot bring myself to get water around a molten lead pot-if you knew me you would know that some how, some way I would manage to blow myself up-so I heat treat later in the oven.
 
Posts: 641 | Location: Indiana, U.S.A. | Registered: 21 October 2000Reply With Quote
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Big Bore:
Hi Big Bore,
The water, molten lead portion has to be taken very seriously for sure. I keep the bucket five or six feet away just incase. It also gives me time to make sure the bullet has frosted over enough before you let it go.

470 Mbogo

 
Posts: 1247 | Location: Sechelt B.C. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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If I were you I would just cast your bullets out of strait wheel weights and quench them in a bucket of water straight from the mold. I shoot these type of bullets out of my 45-70 at speeds up to 1800fps with no leading. I know it's a little messy but Lee Liquid alox is a very good bullet lube.

------------------
Walk softly and carry a big bore!

 
Posts: 414 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 28 February 2002Reply With Quote
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