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Re: free floating barrel on CZ Login/Join
 
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When they bed the action does the wood around the action have to be taken out a little and fiber glass dabbed everywhere?Should the glass go all the way up the barrel channel?Just wondering what kind of job it is and how many hours does it take to do.Is 100.00$ to much to pay for that kind of work or is it pretty involved job?Should it save your wooden stock from spliting due to the heavy recoil?Seems like this is a must on big bore rifles from what i have been reading everywhere......
 
Posts: 3608 | Location: USA | Registered: 08 September 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks! Once I get some ammo loaded up, I'll give her a try. Good to know that somebody already went through it with good results. How did you go about? Did you just took out the front screw, and grinded some room around the part that the screw screws into? Or did you free-float from that screw forward? I noticed that on my rifle the wood touches the barrel all the way up front. I'm tempted to go right at it, but I'll try shooting it first...

Frans
 
Posts: 1717 | Location: Alberta, Canada | Registered: 17 March 2003Reply With Quote
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I think I need to explain what I did in more detail. First off I didn't use the standard CZ stock, I bought a custom laminated stock from Jim Brokman "www.brokmansrifles.com" which does not have the front barrel screw drilled into the stock. The stock is milled out however for the barrel recoil lug if you choose to use it but there is no screw hole. You would have to add it if that's what you wanted but then I doubt if you could consider the barrel free floated. I didn't use any of the barrel hardware. When I dicussed this with them, they felt that the barrel recoil lug was not necessary (on the 375 H&H) and to bed the action and an inch or two of the barrel with a high quality bedding.That's essentially what I did.
If you've never glass bed a rifle before be sure you apply plenty of release agent(paste wax works great) to all parts that may come in contact with the bedding, including screw holes.Some clay should be used to prevent bedding from flowing into unwanted areas and screw holes. Read the directions several times and follow them if you're inexperienced. You don't want to have that stuff oozing all over everything and worst of all part of the action/barrel epoxyed into the stock. If you screw up some on the first try you can grind out the bedding in a worse case senario. Be careful, allow plenty of time (it does not set up all that fast) and your probably better with too little than too much. You can always add some more if necessary but you don't want bedding all over the stock. Finally, if you're not very handy e.g. can't nail a board on straight you may be better off to pay someone the $80 to $100 to do it for you. I think most of us do this stuff because we enjoy doing it as much as any reson. Your first job probably won't be perfect but if you have good square contact with the action, especially the backside of the recoil lug and at least one inch of the barrel it should work. I hope this helps and don't be discouraged. It's like most anything else in that it swounds a lot more difficult than it really is if you FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. Good luck.
 
Posts: 740 | Location: CT/AZ USA | Registered: 14 February 2001Reply With Quote
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