I am currently tooling up to make some second recoil lugs and have gotten alot of E-mail recently about them. The approach I'm taking is to make 1 inch long ,.750 wide solid steel blocks with two 4-40 screw holes in them and a custom radius to fit the barrel exactly. To install these lugs all you would have to do is drill and tap your barrel for the 4-40 screws, tin both the lug and the barrel with Force 44 solder and screw them together while applying heat. These guys look great and work beautifully, but are true custom lugs as they are made to fit each separate barrel. They take me at least 1 hr to make and I'd want $50 a piece for them. How many of you guys would be interested?-Rob

Rob, where are these lugs positioned on the barrel? Would you need to be shipped the barrel, basrreled action, or just dimensions and taper specs? Richard

Richard10X- The second recoil lug typically is mounted 3-5 inches foreward of the action lug. I'm planning on just making the lugs so all I would need is the actual dimensions of the barrel where the owner wants to locate it. All the owner needs is a drill press, and drill and tap for 4-40 screws. Knowing how to solder is good too!-Rob

My Smith will be making recoil lugs for our barrels Rob, if he could not do that I would be worried about letting him attack my action & barrel for this .585

Rob

I have two Ruger 77 MII Magnums, one in .375, the other in .416 Rigby. I would like to deal with (get rid of) the hokey recoil plate. As I recall you have one of these in .416 also so.....

Qutesion: Where would you locate a recoil lug and would you use two??? There is a very large action flat under the ring and another flat along the bottome of the barrel extending from the receiver to well beyond the rear sight.

I have been toying with the idea making a lug that would fit the stock recess for the existing lug and soldering this to the barrel flat. I like your idea of using screws.

Another Question: The web between the triger and mag. is broken on the .375. I have been thinking of adding a cross bolt, either hidden or through the stock just ahead of the front trigger gard screw to deal with this. I may reenforse the area first with epoxy. Does any of this make sense??

btt