One one of the other threads, somebody asked if there was a list of big bore gunsmiths, and since I don't know of one, figured I'd start this thread to see what folks thought, and who they would recomend. The only smith I'm personally familiar with is John Ricks star@olypen.com

I also thought I'd put in a food for thought session, specifically some red herrings for those that might consider a local smith. The #1 question for me is, does the smith recomend a second recoil lug, aka barrel lug on 40 caliber and over barrels, and if no, what does he do special to keep the stock together. If the response is, either is unnecesary, I would beat feet post haste, as this would be the sign that said smith didn't know didly about big bores.

I agree with Paul 100%...My experience with 40 cal. is that you can get by with a good glass bedding job and crossbolts don't hurt, but glass will do it...

Above 40 cal. you had best cross bolt (2), glass recoil shoulder, tang and the 2nd lug located 5" beyond the action, bed the magazine box tight and have a small clearance in the back of the tang. Have a good fit and use the rear mauser piller to keep the action level, thereby transferring some of the recoil to the tightly inletted magazine box..

Use the very best quarter sawn Turkish walnut and it MUST be properly laid out and stay away from that "clown wood" the famous "marble cake" because marble cake is slab sawn..grain should run from toe to forend, upward through the grip and stright or slightly upward....If you must have color then make it tight contrasting lines...the 40's can handle a little more grain in the butt area...

When some famous gunsmith tells you a "properly inletted" 505 or 458 Lott will be fine without the above, run backwards..You could dismiss the glass and just maybe get away with it providing the wood was twice cross-bolted and was of such quality that it would never indent a gap over years of shooting, but I wouldn't...

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

At some point above the 375 H&H and I will say a 400 grain bullet at 2400, you reach the point where scopes, mounts, bedding all have potential problems if the rifle is to be fired more than a few times at game.

The longer I shoot, observe others and talk to others the more convinced I become the that the 375 is right at a threshold. In my experience the 270 to 375 is a bracket.

Mike

Mike,

I think you just about hit the nail on the head on that one...Something I said rub off on you?

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

Ray,

I'm suprised that in addition the the scope, mounts and stock having problems, you didn't mention the shooters shoulder.

As far as Mike's bracket, I'd also put the 6.5mm's on the bottom end.

Ray,

Either something rubbed off or I stumbled across the truth

With scope and mounts I have often found that the 375 level can be less trouble than the 270 end. The reason being that a scope or mount problem with a 375 often shows up as bigger open groups whereas the 270 often starts first showing up as flyers.

Paul, you are probably right about 6.5mm at the lower end of the bracket. I have never owned a 6.5mm of any type.

One of the interesting things I have always found with the 375 is the recoil when loaded with faster powders such as 3031 burning rate to original Kynoch ballistic...270 at say 2600 and 300 at say 2400...as compared to full loads with powders like Re 15.

For a few shots there is not much difference. However when a lot6 of shooting is done you notice the difference. Also at tthe higher level the rifle is not as well adapted to just letting it "sit" like you a do a 270 or 30/06.

I am convined that recoil is one of the reasons that it is a 375 H&H and not a 395 H&H etc.

Mike