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Detachable Mounts V's Fixed Queries. Login/Join
 
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Gentlemen,

after sorting out my scope choice I now would like to switch to mounts. I will be using either Warne Fixed or Warne Detachables (Talley's are not available in Australia)

In keeping with the "keep it simple stupid philosphy" surely warne fixed mounts would with all things be equal better able to hold there zero.

For the .416 Rigby mounted with a 2.5x compact scope would I be better with the warne detachables or fixed ?

Fire away gentlemen.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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As long as your not shooting a Mauser, werein the ring levers must be on the right side of the action, either will do....NEVER use Warnes on a Mauser with the levers, recoil can bounce the levers around and block your bolt uplift..It happened to me at a most inopertune time but a good PH saved the day.
 
Posts: 42321 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Ray,

so basically on my CZ 550 magnum actions warne detachables are not appropriate and I am better sticking to warne fixed mounts ??

Thanks Ray.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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PC I'm using Warne quick detach on the Bauska, which is basically a magnum mauser. I have the levers on the left side, no problem.
If you happened to be down Geelong way I'm sure Peter at Procal would let you try them before buying them. He carries Warne mounts in stock.
 
Posts: 787 | Location: Melbourne, Australia | Registered: 15 January 2002Reply With Quote
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If you have iron sights on the barrel, you will need the detachable rings. If you do not have iron sights, the fixed would better serve you.

CZ 550's are different than mausers, only the extractor is the same.
 
Posts: 2036 | Location: Roebling, NJ 08554 | Registered: 20 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I had Warne detachables on a cz550 in .375. Looked great, but I shot them to pieces after 20 rounds or so. Just wouldn�t take the recoil. Maybe they have improved tolerances since then, this was three years ago. Or maybe a gunsmith can make them fit better. If neither I would have the action ground down to a mauser profile + drilled/tapped for mounting bases. No, I would do that anyway, but thats just me..

Tron
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Oslo, Norway | Registered: 04 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Looks like I will just stick to warne fixed mounts after reading your story trb, the fixed warnes are working on a 602 I have had coverted to .585, my rigby certainly does not have the torque that the nyati has.

So far no really good endorsements of the detachables.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Having used different types of detachable mounts, my present favourites are :

1 (absolute top) : German S�hler claw mounts (see 1st. pic). 100% reliable return to zero and solid as a rock. On the negative side, they're bloody expensive and require hard to find gunsmithing skills (they need to be hand fitted, soldered on and bbl. needs rebluing)
 -

2 : Ernst Appel Werke (EAW) swing-out mounts. They look like the original Steyr-Mannlicher mount but with the added bonus of wear take up screws (see pic 2). Returns to zero within 0-2 cm at 100 m.
 -

This being said, I'll give a "best value for money" mention to the Leupold QR. Not as accurate as the others but still field practical. And it costs 1/5 of the 1st. and 1/3 of the second.

No experience with Talley, though.
 
Posts: 2420 | Location: Belgium | Registered: 25 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Andre,

the claw mounts look beutiful but I have just completed 3 years of study mate and cash is tight !!

Thanks for your help Andre !!
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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The Mauser 98 has the bolt release on the left side therefore the levers will not take a full turn...I don't know how the CZ releases the bolt...I think that CZ may intend to use Talley rings on there guns in the future..I heard some talk of this at SCI last year.
 
Posts: 42321 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Andre,
No doubt that the European Claw mounts properly installed are the finest mounts ever designed as to function and lookability, but keep them low...

I have found the EAW's not to hold up well under heavy recoil...
 
Posts: 42321 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Ray, the bolt release is on the CZ's is a very little button similar in size and situated in a similar spot to the bolt relase on an M70.

Thanks for the tip .416w

I have ordered the warne detachables to give them a go, and it would be kind of cool to be just able to switch the scope off and have a crack with the express sights.

My qustion now is on which side is the most appropriate side to have the levers, which side do the majority have them on ??

Also how close to zero can I expect when I remove and put the scope back on ??

Thanks.

[ 12-12-2002, 09:40: Message edited by: PC ]
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Ray, I'm glad you mention the heavy recoil tolerance of the EAW's, 'cause I forgot to include that EAW produces a "magnum" version (priced accordingly, of course...) that should stand up to anything man can carry. BTW, the same one as shown on my Sauer 202 in 7x64, has been unaffected by 800+ rounds from a .300 Wby.
 
Posts: 2420 | Location: Belgium | Registered: 25 August 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
The Mauser 98 has the bolt release on the left side therefore the levers will not take a full turn...I don't know how the CZ releases the bolt...I think that CZ may intend to use Talley rings on there guns in the future..I heard some talk of this at SCI last year.

Ray,You old dog, we've had this conversation before, and as politely as I can say it, your full of it! [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]

PC, The Warne levers are not properly mounted on the bolt handle side of a Mauser action, and do not need more than a 1/2 turn to tighten or loosen the mount. I have Warnes on an FN Mauser, and two Whitworth Mausers, and one double rifle, and if it required a full turn, they could not be used on a S/S double rifle, at all. All the Mausers have the levers on the left side of the action, and do not interfere with the bolt release. Additionally, I have never had a lever loosen from recoil, even after a hundred rounds. The recoil thing is why the levers should be adjusted to point at each other and almost paralell with the bore, of the rifle when tightened.

When installed properly,both levers end up at a little above level with the bore of the rifle,and pointing at each other, when tightened. The levers turn in opposite dirrections, and when adjusted, and installed properly,the front lever should turn up, and to the front to loosen, and the rear lever up, and to the rear,to loosen, and This does not interfere with the bolt release.

I have no idea why anyone would mount the levers on the bolt handle side in the first place! The dirrections that come with the rings and bases even picture the levers on the left!

They return to zero quite well, and are very nice when you need more than one scope for the same rifle, like a lighted scope for cats over bait, and a regular scope for general hunting, and both as back up with a pre-adjusted extra scope as a hedge against scope damage.

I would say this, however, if the Tally's are available this would be my choice today. The Talley's were not available when I installed my first Warnes, (actually they were Brownell's, then Kimbers, then Warnes), the Tally wasn't being made yet.

There is no question a good solid mount is probably better as long as you don't have a problem with your scope or a need for more than one scope for different purposes! All my DGR bolt rifles are fitted with Warnes, and in 15 years of use I have had ZERO problem attributable to their use!
 
Posts: 14634 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: 08 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I use Warne Deatchables on virtually everything! from .30 caliber to .585. They are fine if mounted properly. Make sure you lap your rings in properly before you mount your scope. More scope mounting problems are due to improper fit of the rings than ANYTHING else. It's simple to do!-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks gentlemen,

my warne detachables should be here by Monday. Rob I was advised not to get deatchable's for my .585 but I sought of wish I had of now that you have told me you have them on your .585. I could have irons sighted for 750's & scope set up for the 650's.

My gundealer who sold me my warne fixed mounts for my .585 told me there "was no need for lapping the warne fixed mounts" I took his advise and I have not had movement with my .585 in 30 shots but I still feel they should have been lapped, what is your take on this Rob, should I remove the scope and get them lapped ??
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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PC-Lapping the rings insures maximal contact on the scope bearing surface and minimizes the stresses on the scope due to misallignment. Additionally, Using a Brownells lapping rod will show you very quickly if your rings or bases are misalligned or installed improperly etc. It takes about 5 minutes and eliminates a plethora of problems. I can't understand what possible reason any knowledgeable gunsmith would use to justify not doing it. I never install a scope without lapping the rings first. There is only upside and no downside. I'd pull your scope off, lap the rings and re-install the scope just so you can sleep at night( even though your upside down in oz)-regards-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Rob,

Thanks Rob. I will do that.

due to the fact were always upside down VB has no effect on us we feel like were pissed all the time [Big Grin]
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Rob,

What is a Brownell's lapping rod? I don't think I've come across that in the catalog. I presume a 1" rod for use with abrasive compound, as opposed to a 1" reamer? I've thought about buying the reamer, but balked at the expense compared to relatively little use.

Todd
 
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Rob I have paid for my first set of warne detachables and I took my other warne rings of the .585 and am getting both sets lapped.

Rob if you or others think it's advisable I might buy a second set of warne detachables for my .585 so that I can shoot 750's with the irons and 650's with the scope.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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pc, I would buy the Talley quick detachable rings for the cz550, not the warnes.
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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To late 500 I have bought & paid for the warnes, also we can not get Tally's in Australia. What are the Talley's worth in Detachable format ??
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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PC

I wish I had got in on this debate earlier.

Talley QD's are easy to get in OZ - just go to the Hunt America web site and order them. You can also just ring Garry at Talley's and place a phone order. My last set took about 2 weeks and worked out cheaper than Warnes. They are also superior to all of the Warnes I've ever used because the recoil lug (which fits into that little cut out on the left side of the rear dovetail) is much beefier and engages much more of the slot than the Warnes do. I don't know how others here are mounting them with the levers facing the other way because to do so would necessitate removal of the recoil lug.

Warnes first model of lever mounts were by far their best product. They had a nicely shaped lever which locked up solid like the Talleys. Then they decided to make them better by making them worse!! and put those big, dopey looking sprung loaded levers on which rattle and as Ray says can change position. With these I used to remove them and paint them green and chuck them in the long grass, then replace with Talley screw and lever which fit nicely.

But none of that is necessary now that Talley are (hopefully) making the QD's for the Brno's full time.

I have either Warne or Talley mounts on my .416R ,.375, 8mm,7mm and 2 270's

GG
 
Posts: 500 | Location: Queensland, Australia | Registered: 07 August 2001Reply With Quote
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PC,

Just FYI:

"CZ 550 and BRNO 602, for 1 inch dia scope tube - low height - detactable scope rings with levers
Talley Scope Rings -- for CZ 550 and BRNO 602 for 1 inch diameter scope tube - low height - detactable rings with levers
Price: $109.95"

http://huntamerica.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&cat=3
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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GG375 so the talley lever will fit into my warne's ?? how much extra will talley charge for supplying a lever for my warnes.

I am pretty dissapointed now I have forked out the cash for the warnes and could have gotton the Talley's. I can not send them back either as they are getting lapped at the minute. I paid $210AUS for my warne quick detachables.

I have a .375, .416 & .585. I would like to eventually place detachables on all of them (as they all have irons) which caliber should get the warnes ??? if I buy two more sets of Talley's.

I have the medium warnes will the low talley's fit without alteration of the bolt handle on the cz's ?? How much difference in height between the wanrne medium and Tallye low's. I am just trying to get some consistencey bewteen my rifles so they all relatively feel the same.

Thanks.

[ 12-15-2002, 06:59: Message edited by: PC ]
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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PC

The last time I bought the levers from Talley they only charged me a token amount - like 5$US per pair. They are really good to deal with.

The last time I priced warnes i'm sure they were around $250 a set and the Talleys ended up a bit less - I'll have to go thru my card statements to give you an exact figure.

I would definitely put the Warnes on your 375, assuming a similar weight for the 3 rifles you mentioned. You will be amazed at the difference in the area of the bearing surfaces of the recoil lug between the Talley and the Warne - like the Talley might be 10 times more!! Only a rough guess from memory so don't quote me on it.

As far as the ring heights go I have all the measurements at home and will get back to you with them. I'm pretty sure the Talleys for the Brno only come in one height - "low". But this is equivalent to Warnes "medium".

At work at present and will post back with the ring heights when I get home.

GG
 
Posts: 500 | Location: Queensland, Australia | Registered: 07 August 2001Reply With Quote
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PC
Warne Low = .285"
Warne Med = .410"
Warne High = .540"
Talley = .410"

These measurements are from the bottom of the ring base where they would sit on the square bridges of a Brno, to the bottom of the scope tube.

GG
 
Posts: 500 | Location: Queensland, Australia | Registered: 07 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks gg375,

well the .375 can have the warnes and the .416 & .585 will get Talley's. I will add some Talley levers to the warnes.

Thanks for your help !!
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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No wuckin furry's mate.

GG
 
Posts: 500 | Location: Queensland, Australia | Registered: 07 August 2001Reply With Quote
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GG375 I just did my first ever on-line order for a set of the Talley Deatchables. I also enquired after the talley lever & screw for the set of warne Detachables I have got.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Mac,
I am glad they work for you, didn't for me and damn near got me stomped because the levers flipped around and blocked the bolt uplift. the mount didn't loosen the levers just bounced around on that little spring dealy bob. It was a Mauser with levers on the bolt side because the low mounts WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY on off bolt side. I want my levers to not interfere with the bolt release. 1/2 turn is not tight enough for me, thank you. Maybe I use my guns rougher than you. I found a cure for the flippen levers, black electrical tape..

But never the less, nothing anyone sez is going to change my mind because like I said, they almost got me stomped when they blocked my bolt uplift and in the heat of the moment I had no idea what the problem was and a good PH saved my bacon.....I am an unforgiving soul you see...So more power to those of you who use them and I hope you do not have to deal with such a situation as I, but you have been forewarned, so be it.....
 
Posts: 42321 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Ray,

seems like GG375 has the problem solved for the warne spring loaded levers, you just buy talley levers & nuts to replace them. I have finished up ordering two sets of Tally QD's as well as a set of Talley levers & nuts to replace the warne levers.

You probably already know this..but just in case you did not... [Wink]

Take Care PC.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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416SW

What is the Bauska you are shooting? Les is a friend of mine, he's still kicking around doing a bit of barrel making and gun building. It's nice to see one of his rifles in Oz.
 
Posts: 922 | Location: Somers, Montana | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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