Hi all, I posted this in gunsmithing but there are some gun mechanics over here also.

I orderd a 45acp conversion kit for M-98 Mauser from Rihneland arms. I have a 1908/34 Brno with a sewerpipe 7mm barrel. I went to take it off tonight and I can't get it to budge. The barrel would just slip in the wooden blocks in the vise. I then put a thin wood shim in the vise and put the action in and used a pipe wrench on the barrel as it's not any good anyway. I couldn't get it to budge and now I tweaked the action just abit. I'll have to un tweak it later. I put the barrel in the lathe and took a relief cut right up against the action down to .9" and still no luck. I sprayed some penetrateing oil in it and put it up for the night.
what should I do next? Heat the front reciever ring slightly?
what should I do next?

Here is what I've done. First make a.700- .701 rod which will just fit through your action and butt up against your old barrel. machine a flat on it so that you can put a machinists screw clamp on it and the bottom of the action so it won't move. Next saw off the barrel at the action face leaving a short stubb you can indicate off of. . Center the rod holding the action in a four jaw( indicate off the rod and the barrel stubb ( machine a fresh surface), then carefull bore out the BARREL stubb. Go very slowly as you approach the thread crests. When you just see the thread crests stop and with a dental pick you can easily unravel the metal that's left without damage to the action threads. This is faster and less damaging than trying to soak things in kroil for a week or two, then tweaking the whole action later.-Rob

This is how I have done dozens of them. I take a piece of

one half by two inch iron barstock two inches long "approx"

dril a one inch hole in the center. Cut the throwaway barrel

off right behind the rear sight. slip the barstock over the

cutoff barrel, wrap the bare reciever with wet rags stand up

with the barrel stub up. Take the arc welder with a one eigth in. rod and plenty of heat and run a bead arround the

barrel barstock joint...(on the side away from the reciever) leave to cool.. it will come apart

with little effort. The reciever is heated very little while

the barrel is heated then shrinks, loosening the adheasive

that was put in during assembly. You can hold the barstock

in your bench vise!!

TRY IT IT WORKS

LYLE

I took some 1x2" bar stock and drilled a hole inbetween them to fit the barrel, then drilled and tapped the anvil portion of my bench vise to hold the barrel blocks. I put the wrench on and leaned on it while beating with a 5lb sledge After a little heat on the action it let go. I only heated it up until spit just steamed off of it. Now I just need to straighten the action and put it all together.

Simply take dry-ice and freeze the barrel, while the reciever is warmed by a clean soldering iron! When the barrel is cold enough, it will shrink and the barrel will turn out easily!

I have used this method successfully on a couple of jobs but I was using liquid nitrogen instead of dry ice. You probably need to heat the receiver ring up to around 500 degree F while giving the barrel a good cryogenic treatment. Good luck.

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Simply take dry-ice and freeze the barrel, while the reciever is warmed by a clean soldering iron! When the barrel is cold enough, it will shrink and the barrel will turn out easily!

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Glad to hear you got the barrel out. A good friend of mine has used the welder trick, and I have bored the barrels out. Unlike Robert, I simply chuck the receiver up in the 4-jaw chuck and indicate it in from the cut off (deburred) barrel bore. That is the true beauty of the 4-jaw chuck the work peice need not be round (or anywhere near round for that matter). I never had to take one down to the point that I had to ice (or dental) pick the thread out though

Scott