What RIP said.

The barrel lug is not necessary. I saved mine for when I finish the reshaping of my wood stock.

Either of those scopes will work just fine.

I PM'ed you some pictures.

IF you have questions about the barrel channel, let me know. I'll take some pictures there also.

JCN

I just weighed my stock using my trigger pull scale--right at 35-36 oz or 2 lbs 3 to 4 oz or 2.25 lbs basically--

thanks RGB for chipping in--I remember your posts along with others from a year or two ago about the CZ wood stocks and McMillan stocks, but with the search down I can't find all the stuff that was said back then---gonna order some Acraglass gel and get after it---thanks again for everyone's input and please continue---chris

I've just looked over 500+ posts, since the search function isn't working, and since my McMillan stock just arrived I need a refresher on a couple of things--it's CZ 375 and the wood stock has a rear crossbolt and also the front lug & screw up by the swivel---questions are--

should I bed--I believe I should---

should I remove some mat'l prior to bedding the action??--

should I put in the crossbolt or put in a hidden one--or maybe 2---(one should suffice if any I'd think)--

what should I do about the front lug up by the swivel--delete it or hog out the stock and reuse it---

why did I get the McMillan stock--well last year I remember guy's stocks splitting and I thought why not--plus I like fiberglass stocks and to reduce some weight---

any other tips involving the McMillan would be apprecitated--chris

I have McMillan CZ stock on my 416 Rigby.

I bedded it with Brownell's Steel Bed. I'm sure Marine-Tex would be plenty strong enough for the 375.

You do not need any bolts or cross pins.

Bed the barrel full length with neutral pressure. The big boomers have fairly thin barrel walls relative to overall diameter and bore size. The full length bedding will tend to smooth out the barrel vibrations on firing.

Don't try to do all the bedding at one time. Do the action area first, that is most important. If you are feeling frisky you can do the barrel channel at the same time. After it is nicely set up you can flip her over and do the bottom.

You don't need to hog out a whole lot of the stock. McMillan builds 'em strong and straight.

You will not need to add any weight to the stock. McMillan makes 'em stout because they know what barreled actions are going into them. The 375 CZ also has plenty of meat in the barrel.

For my face, and most people's faces the McMillan stock raises your face up enough that it is a chore to get your eyes down on the iron sights. The 375 is best served with a scope anyway. The power you choose is a matter of personal preference. I favor the ubiquitous Leupold 1.5-5x20mm Vari-X III. Probably the perfect 375 scope would be the 2.5-8x36 Leupold.

Because of the geometry and ergonomics of the McMillan CZ stock you would be well advised to have a gunsmith straighten the bolt handle and fill in the hole at the end of the bolt handle.

These stocks really soak up the recoil nicely.

I put the flush mount QD swivels from Michaels of Oregon (located in boise, ID, go figure) in my stock. when I take the sling off there is nothing to rip my left hand on. that is not necessary for a 375. They don't kick enough to ding your off hand.

It is a very well designed stock that will serve you well.

JCN

forgot to add it has a Burris 1.5x6 scope with Talley rings that I just mounted--I may swap it with my 2.5x8 that's on my Savage 458, but right now I want to try it with this scope--chris

I would agree with everything Charlie has said, but it would not hurt to put some pillars in the bedding of the McMillan to the action, not necessary, since they have cast in synthetic pillars, but not wrong either.



Any material removal from the McMillan should be minimal, basically just sand off the paint finish anywhere that epoxy will flow inside the stock. Material removal should be just enough to get rid of any pressure points and get the barreled action to settle in with no rocking on a highspot, etc., stress free and no-pressure, true lie.



As for the barrel lug contraption, with as light a rifle as the .375 H&H, I would discard the hardware from the forearm. First try bedding what remains integral to the barrel right into the forearm with a hidden crossbolt covered with epoxy, and free float forward/muzzleward. Or just grind off any projections and simply bed the remaining dognut into the forearm barrel channel.



If you want to keep the option of going back to the wood, it would be best to custom fit the escutheon and forearm screw into the McMillan as well, assuming the rifle shoots very well as set up from the factory.



ELKampMaster is the CZ Bedding Master around here.

thanks--what about the barrel lug--forget it or use it--year's ago(OVER 10) I bedded 3 of my SAKO's--read the directions and went for it--all seemed to work--but I don't think I removed any material(except to free float the barrels) and I just lathered the glass in and it went around everything--how much clearance should one give around the action--1/16th of an inch, 1/8th" or more or less--anywhere that I should not glass???...chris

Ditto, again. The guy at McMillan that actually does the work told me to forget about the barrel lug because it tain't needed, and that was on a Lott.



And you don't need cross-bolts, concrete reinforcing rod, or any other such junk. Remember it is a pip squeak .375!



I was under the mistaken impression that the McMillan would decrease weight over the hogback stock, but didn't. Will decrease weight over the American stcok though.