have any of you guys tried the leupold qrw detachable rings on big bores, there steel and they have the steel crossbar so they look sturdy. they would be going on a 458wm. thanks

I have used and am using them. There are three kinds of them. The very old ones have a round bar in the center ... these have a bad reputation and I have not used them.

The next version had a short, square bar in the center. The last version I've seen has a square bar that goes across the full width of the inside of the ring.

Using them on 9,3x62, .376/.416 Steyr Improved, .416 Rigby, and .458 AR (a shortened and necked up RUM case yielding more velocity than the .458 Lott).

I have seen the bars of the last two versions bend in the center with the recoil of the heavy hitters using Leupold steel mounts.

These mounts do not have a surface that pushes against the scope ring itself. As a result the full recoil force is expended on the cross bar.

I have a milling machine and I solved my problem by making my own mounts that are very similar to those made by Mark Stratton for Talley rings. My mounts have a face that pushes directly on the rings. I did a long thread on them:

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/...=824102578#824102578

They work like a champ but are more labor intensive than they are worth unless you want a project. Talley mounts and rings will solve the problem more economically and are visually more appealing.

I use them on my 404j, very rugged, & reset to pretty close to zero if removed.

I had a 458 Lott take a set apart. My gunsmith showed me two other sets that were trashed on big calibers. I switched to Talleys!

I have them on a 375 H&H, 416 Rem Mag, and a 470 Capstick. No problems. They hold zero just fine when the scopes are removed and then replaced. My only complaint would be the levers for locking the rings to the bases have relatively sharp corners and are a little tough on the fingers unless you are wearing gloves.

The Talleys are as good as they come. However, if you want to use Leupold try the QW rings, not the QRW. The QW are a standard horizontally split leupold ring with a post on the bottom, the post goes into a hole in the base and the lever acts as a cam when you lock it down. You cannot break these.

I have them on a 375 Ackley and a 450 Ackley. They return to zero nicely and the lever is not sharp like the lever on the QRW.

Here is a link to have a look
http://www.leupold.com/hunting-and-shooting/products/mo...g-systems/qr-mounts/

I have complete confidence in the newest iteration of the Leupold QRW. Don't like the Leupold QR, however. I like the universality and simplicity AND strength of the QRW. Have picatinny, etc., have QRW.

I think problems crop up because folks do not 8x40 and epoxy down the bases. If the bases get a little loose, then any mount can get screwed up in a hurry.

I check the rings all the time too, levers and screws. I de-grease the ring screws only and just finger tighten the levers in a fidgety and frequent fashion, making sure the ring recoil shoulders are both contacting the forward surface in the cross slots before tightening and gluing in the scope.

I also glue the scope into the rings with silicone adhesive and that seals out any stray oil or moisture between scope tube and ring, even with perfectly lapped rings.

The latest QRW's are as good as anything if done right.

I have 4 times as many QRW's as Talley's and am happiest with QRW's for sure.

They are sleeker and lower profile against my horny hands when the scopes are off.

I rely on no mount to return to my kind of zero, I am that accurate a shooter, you see, that even my one set of German claw mounts is not trusted.

I am primarily a scope shooter with scopes down to one power as needed. If the scope ever comes off it does so because it is screwed up. It does not go back on without being sighted in again.

It is a wonderful thing to be able to remove a scope quickly and go to backup iron sights, peep or express.

That's the way I see it.

What RIP said. (Thanks for saving me a bunch of typing RIP!).

I have had QRW's on a 416 Taylor and 375 H&H. They worked great for me.

quote:

Originally posted by Canuck:
What RIP said. (Thanks for saving me a bunch of typing RIP!).

I have had QRW's on a 416 Taylor and 375 H&H. They worked great for me.

Crip,
Welcome and thank you! I think only low-IQ folks have trouble with QRW's.

Once upon a time I had on order, from a supposed custom action builder, the world's first ever stainless magnum Mauser with integral QRW bases machined into the square bridges ...

I am getting ready to have my 450 Dakota M98 Magnum cut for QRW's.

quote:

Originally posted by David:
I have them on a 375 H&H, 416 Rem Mag, and a 470 Capstick. No problems. They hold zero just fine when the scopes are removed and then replaced. My only complaint would be the levers for locking the rings to the bases have relatively sharp corners and are a little tough on the fingers unless you are wearing gloves.

I agree David. I took a dremel to all the sharp edges on mine. A bit of Sharpie or flat black paint & you are good to go.

I have been using QRWs for the last 8 years on every rifle I shoot, mostly big bore including several 416s-Remington-Rigby-416 B&M, 458 Winchester, 458 Lott, 458 B&M, 470 Capstick, 50 B&M Super Short, and 50 B&M Long, up to 510 Wells.
These have shot many thousands of rounds, and I have broken only a couple in all these years. I have broken more scopes than the QRW rings, many more.

I like the fact that when going to the field you carry an extra scope, ready to go on the rifle should you have a failure of any kind. Simply turn the levers and replace the scope. If sighted in before hand, I have never removed and replaced one and it be further out than 1 inch at 50 yds. This being repeated many times, and the vast majority of the time will be within 1/2 inch or less back to zero.

I have never had a set of QRWs loose POI (point of impact). What one must watch is that during heavy recoil if the lever is not tightened down it will start to work loose. The last few years I tighten down the lever just a bit more than my thumb can do with the hollow end of the screwdriver, just a bit, too much and you break the lever. This seems to hold tight.

thanks for all the info, they seem like really heavy duty mounts and rings and i beleive they are the newest kind as the cross bar is square and fit nicely in the weaver cross slot... thanks