quote:

Originally posted by Michael Robinson:
The only ones I trust on a big bore are the Talleys.

It took me a while to come around to QDs. I never used to trust them and didn't use them. Too many widely reported problems.

But then I finally broke down and tried the Talleys. Now I use them on all of my heavy rifles - from .375s to .416s to .458 and .500.

They are excellent. They stay tight and return to zero.

quote:

Originally posted by aklester:
Old thread bump...

OH BOY! A blast from the past! My pictures got moved, I'll see if I can find them and re-illustrate for fun as time permits.
I am still a big fan of QRW, hate QR, and have had some Talley failures on CZ's along the way (vertically split ring half broke where it attached to CZ integral base, and QD lever screw stripped).

My experience with Leupold QRW rings is that while they snap-on with no problem, over the scope tube; getting them off is a real pita. Have scratched several scope tubes, even when paper is wormed in between the tube and the ring top.

Yes, that is the only fussy thing about the latest QRW rings.
When removing the ring tops you have to use both hands in a double-Vulcan pinch to "spring the sprung" on the top halves and slide them off. Of course using a Dremel polishing spud on any edges and corners before installing is a good idea to minimize marring.

The rings have a wicked point on the corner edges. No biggie going on, but coming off is another story.

The bases are expensive compared to the steel Weavers. I like the Weaver base better than the Warne. The Warne is too low sitting. In other words, the bases are too thin. I've used their Rem 700 and Win 70 bases. The Weaver base is a bit taller.

Height of the bases varies by make of the base as well as the rifle it is supposed to fit. I like them as low as possible. Whatever works.
The standard Leupold QRW bases may be $XX and the Leupold Mark 4 bases (Weaver-style cross-slots) may be $XXX
but they are worth it in some applications.
I used some of those meant for a Rem 700, shimmed the rear base by .020" to raise it and it worked on a Wby MarkV, epoxied with JB Weld and 8x40 screws:







A .510/.338 Lapua Magnum Improved ("500 Bateleur") Fits 4 rings with nuts instead of QD levers!!!!




Have recently bought my first Ruger bolt rifle.

Upon graduating from lever action Marlin 30-30's, my first bolt action rifle was a Ruger M77 30-06 that was made in 1975, sold to me in 1978, and it was the "roundtop" version. I had to use Weaver bases for scope mounting.
When I found out that most Ruger M77's had integral bases, I epoxied those aluminum Weaver bases to the rifle, 6x48 screws and all.

But a torch will remove epoxy. Here is the Ruger Roundtop now, with 8x40 screws and Leupold Mark 4 bases, Brown Precision fiberglass stock with some Krylon paint by yours truly.
Same action contours and hole spacing as on a Remington M700,
However, I had to cut off, shorten, the rear base to make it fit the Roundtop Ruger.
The Mark 4 bases come with two sets of base screws, both 6x48 and 8x40,
ingeniously designed to work in the bases "as is" for whichever your action holes are:







They and CZ have integral bases. Some Tikka and Sakos too. An integral base really does The Best Job for scope mounting. As long as it isn't that terrible Sako reverse dovetail.

I agree totally with that last paragraph. My love of QRW is only a necessity involved when there is no CZ or Ruger integral base available. I got rid of my last Sako of the three I have owned because of those @#$$&%! so-called integral bases on the Sakos and the Rube Goldberg rings that go on them. The pre-1990 Sako ring and base combo was good is all I can recall about that.

I favor the Warne vertical split design for Quick Release scope rings. Used the Leupold QR system for years, but noticed just by sheer luck that every set of the 7 base sets, 2pc & 1, were 5moa or more off-center from the bore. The Weaver mounts on those 7 rifles when tested were all bore concentric; so not off by any factor.

You confirm my opinion of the QR, thanks. Here we differ only on one thing. I want no vertical split rings for QD use, as stated years ago, page one of this thread.

The weak link on a rifle is the scope mount system. The 6x40 tiny screws that base systems use are a joke. The FN-H SPR and PBR use 8x32 screws to mount their Near Picatinny rail.

The usual base screws we replace are 6/48, typically switched to 8/40 by drill and tap. If FN is using 8/32 screws on the Picatinny, that is a good thing.

I like tactical scope rings with 7/16 or 1/2" bolt fasteners.

Agreed! This is now my favorite on a QRW base or Picatinny rail.
The Burris Xtreme Tactical Rings will best all for my uses.



Low 30mm rings:



Medium 30mm rings:



Low 1-inch rings:



Etc. The high and extra-high are for the tacticool AR's, etc.



These rings are really light and strong.
The recoil stop/cross-bolt, half-inch hex-nut nut, and six screws (8x40!!!!!!) per ringtop are steel.
The rest is aluminum alloy, and they are near impossible to mar a scope tube.



Carry a wrench, No piddly levers to break.

Amen! I have a couple of pocket wrench choices, which I call Quick-Detachable QD Levers. A half-inch socket for the pocket:





And another pocket wrench, QD-QD-Lever, a 5mm hex/Allen wrench.
This is about as rugged and reliable as it gets for QD scope.
You can torque the main mounting screws to 65 inch-pounds, and should, no sweat.
The Burris Xtreme Tactical rings also may be torqued to 65 inch-pounds on the half-inch nuts (see Burris instructions above).
Don't try that with a Talley QD lever!
Also shown is the spec for the screw you need for replacement of the slot-head main mounting screw in each CZ ring.
Ignore the homemade QD lever, pay attention to the QD-QD lever that goes in pocket. Don't leave it dangling on ring socket screw:










I think a custom tactical action with integral Picatinny rail would be superior to anything for a dangerous game rifle build. .416 Ruger in a Sako M995 TRG-S with a Near Pic Rail WELDED to the dovetail. That would work...

I might not go full tacticool, but I do have a Ruger-wildcat-chambered M70 Winchester with Picatinny rail (Warne 20-MOA) with Burris Xtreme Tactical rings.
That is a setup that I would use for scoping a DGR.
The screws used for the rail attachment are 8/40, and epoxied with JB Weld.
I also like to glue the scope in the rings with clear or black silicone adhesive.

quote:

Originally posted by ozhunter:
The new model "Alaska" as recommended by R Martini