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Lead Sled Modification Login/Join
 
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I have the original Lead Sled and have found the adjustments to be rather crude. I read a review of the newer Lead Sled DFT which said that a new rear adjustment knob helped with fine vertical adjustments.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/caldwell_lead_sled_DFT.htm

I decided to modify mine to allow easier rear adjustment.



The Lead Sled lower "pipe" is already threaded and drilled completely through. I used a "fully threaded tap bolt" 5/16 18, four inches long, Grade 8. To the top, I added a "Clamping Knob" purchased here:

http://roganknobs.com/index.asp?

The Grade 8 tap bolt was purchased here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/


It helped a lot.

An earlier "prototype" was made with a wingnut instead of the clamping knob.

A rubber pad is necessary to keep it from "walking".

I replaced the front bag with one which had a narrower opening and filled it with sand. I also added padding to the sides of the rear rest for a more snug fit.

This is my first attempt at posting a picture. I hope it worked.


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Posts: 431 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: 29 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Neat trick for the Lead Sled.
By the way, who is the manufacturer of the stock being held in the Lead Sled?
Thanks.
 
Posts: 97 | Location: Houston, TX USA | Registered: 17 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I am guessing that it is the Remington sporter model made by Mcmillan... just a guess.
 
Posts: 223 | Registered: 25 July 2006Reply With Quote
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MikeD & Hondo

The stock is an Echols-McMillan into which a Montana 1999 .375 Weatherby is resting. Moderate recoil shooting 260 grain H&H but rather heavy recoil shooting 300 grain Weatherbys.

I could not figure out how to put a rubber foot on the bottom (head) of the tap bolt. Anyone?


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Posts: 431 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: 29 January 2006Reply With Quote
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I have found rubber feet for bolt heads in the hardware store. Gary
 
Posts: 470 | Location: central California | Registered: 26 October 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of JC375
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Oldcoyote, I would sure like to see more pics of your rifle an details on who built it for you. I am thinking of doing something like this myself. What is the finished weight of the rifle? THANKS
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Florida | Registered: 04 April 2006Reply With Quote
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JC375







First semi-custom and first rifle pictures. Echols-McMillan Stock with magnum fill. Montana 1999 24 inch No. 4 barrel, .375 Weatherby. Talley Screw-lock QDs in offset base with 8/40 screws. Leupold 1.75 X 6 VX 3. Dakota rear swivel base, Gentry front swivel base (too close to fore end but works). Williams extractor. Kickeez 1 3/8 Magnum Pad.

Rifle weighs 9 lbs, 9 1/2 ozs including scope. The Kickeez adds a little weight vs. a Decelerator.

I don't know why I did this as I had a perfectly good .416 Rigby.


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Posts: 431 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: 29 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Oldcoyote thanks for posting the pics and the details about your rifle. I am thinking about building something along the same lines but in 416 Rm. I am surprised the recoil gets your attention from the 375 after shooting a Rigby. Do you think the Echols/Mcmillan stock handles recoil well? What is the length of pull on your stock? I will need to cut mine down, curious as to how it will look. Thanks a bunch.
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Florida | Registered: 04 April 2006Reply With Quote
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JC375
Length of pull is 13 5/8. I think stock handles recoil well and it has a nice feel to it.

My unbraked Ruger .416 Rigby definitely has more recoil than this .375 Weatherby. I put a Vais "quieter" brake on the Rigby and it helped a lot. No one complains about the noise and I have asked people at the range. The PHs in Africa did not care. So it's always there as an option and allows the use of a bigger gun if that's what you want.


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Posts: 431 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: 29 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Oldcoyote, thanks. This information and pictures will be very helpful.
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Florida | Registered: 04 April 2006Reply With Quote
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