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OK, yes I am a litle pleased here, but I also have a question (or two or three). I have in my sweaty little hands a CZ550 Magnum in 375 H&H (I just made the minimum ) that I traded for a week or so ago. Upon receipt, I quickly disassembled and cleaned the rifle and noted a few things that I need advice on. #1--The barrel is bearing on the right side of the forearm a bit...should I relieve it and free float? #2--With respect to the pillars on the action screws, and the barrel lug device that bears on the lug inletted into the forearm---should I bed them (Steelbed). #3--The stock seems to suit the open sights perfectly, for those of you that use scopes did you restock the rifle or is it OK as is? What the hell, here's a #4--Since I don't have anything REAL big to shoot here in WI, anyone have a screamin' light load that I could really put the hurt on a deer or coyote with until I get my ass to AK or back out west elk hunting? Thanks for the time, ------------------ [This message has been edited by matt salm (edited 02-28-2002).] [This message has been edited by matt salm (edited 02-28-2002).] | ||
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one of us |
You can use any of the lighter weight 375 bullets for deer (I like the Barnes X). As far as the barrel channel, I would shoot it as it is now and see how your groups are and then decide what to do. | |||
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If it ain�t broke, don�t fix it. Take any reasonable 270 grain load. I would not invest in dies for a rifle I have not fired yet. Have fun Hermann ------------------ | |||
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It shoots just fine, but I figured there were some improvments that might be made. I guess I'll just figure it out myself---thanks anyway. I ALWAYS buy dies for a rifle I have, sometimes ahead of time-sometimes not--what's the friggin' difference? If you want to know if it shoots, sometimes handloads are the way to go--especially if your want a specific bullet/velocity combination. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
I don't know much about the CZ, but as for ques #1...I would definitely free float the barrel!!! If it doesn't shoot well, you can always put a shim or 2 under the barrel at the tip of the forearm. A good bullet for the .375 (my gun is a 375/284 Win) is a Speer 235 gr. Cheap to shoot/practice with and deadly on deer BTW...who would buy a rifle and NOT buy dies?? I have never bought a factory round in my life and have no intention of starting now (I had my 416 Rem Mag dies 2 days B4 I got my Ruger #1!) [This message has been edited by old4x4 (edited 02-28-2002).] | |||
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Have the same rifle. Tight on left side. Free-floated it. Shoots well. | |||
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quote: If you should ever get bored with the old tried and true .375 H&H It's very easy & cheap to make a .375 Ackley Improved or .375 Weatherby | |||
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One of Us |
The 220 grain Hornady flat nose is designed for the 38-55 (1700 fps). It will turn coyotes inside out, three times better than a 220 swift. | |||
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I agree with 500grains, I use the Hornady 220's in my 375 Wby, and they are pure death on varmints. - Dan | |||
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Thanks for the tips guys, I will try some of those 220 Hornadys. Is there a velocity limit you adhere to? If used as a varmint bullet what velocity are they the best at(3000)? Thanks again, ------------------ | |||
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I'm waiting 10 days for mine, right now. Consider a better recoil pad, and, when I do that, I'm probably going to have the rifle custom bedded. Wonder if lead in the stock might not be a nice idea, and, if the guys can do any better with the set trigger on the rifle??? gs | |||
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Just found a federal factory load that pushed a Trophy Bonded Bear claw, 300 grains, at 2700 fps out of the H&H. In God's name, what more do you need? Why go 375 Wby, or AI, if factory ammo gives you this kind of velocity??? gs ------------------ | |||
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An even lighter bullet than the Hornady is Sierra's GameKing in 200 gr. A fellow I know use them for roe-deer | |||
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What are the drop specs on the 200 grain??? gs | |||
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Socrates - Go faster, shoot flatter, hit harder, and most important of all, because we can! - Dan | |||
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