So _ I worked out the deal and bought the Win .375. What kind of rings am I going to need? I will likely put a 42 mm scope on it. I have a Nikon Monarch Gold 1.5x6x42 in a 30mm tube. Will it take high rings to work the bolt properly?

Here is the gun and bases it currently has. Would you recommend different bases? The only big guns I have, have been .375 and .416 Encores - which I know, really don't count.

Thanks again for the advice...TH

As a matter of economics, I would leave the current bases on, Leupold makes the 30mm QR rings for that mount. I had it on my 375 before I went to QRW and it worked just fine. I still have that system on my 416 and 458 with no problems, theyare very strong and return to zero well. If you just have to change it the QRW/ PRW leupold are nice as are the Tally mounts.
JJ

I know I am showing some ignorance here, but does that "hang over" of the back mount not affect the spent case coming out, or is it high enough?

With a 42mm scope, will I need high rings or will mediums work?

Tim
Congrats on a fine rifle (I am not a 375 fan-but won't go there) the rifle looks great and I think you got a great deal.


I use QRW rings and bases on every single rifle I own and shoot, bar none from the biggest to the smallest and never had an issue at all. The bases are weaver type leupold and run either $21 or $29 from midway or most places, I forget the exact price is why I gave you both numbers. To be honest I would myself replace the ones that you have. With a 42 mm scope you can get by easy with medium Leupold QRW rings-about $60 these days-and you are ready to go. I have never ever had a scope on and off be more than 1 inch off at 50 yds--95% of the time it is well under 1/2 inch or far better. 1 inch is being way out there and may never happen for you. This way you can have good confidence should you ever want to use your irons. I have on many, many occasions had to scope go right back to POI after on and off and back on again.

Michael

Tim
I forgot the hangover on the bases is not an issue, the cartridge is going out the side and below that point.

Michael

There is no reason to change the bases. Those Leupold QR bases run $50 wholesale. I have them on all my rifles, and that's more than a few. Been using them exclusively since 1995 on everything from .223 to .458Lott with no problems. They return to zero and are exceptionally strong - just look at the rings and how they fit together - I think much stronger than the QRW model. I use them on the light calibers because removal of the scope makes cleaning so much easier.

Check the Leupold website for the ring height recommended for your scope/rifle combination.

I would change over to Talley bases and rings. I have Talleys on my Winchester Model 70s.

I don't like the "hangover" of the extended scope base either. It has the potential to foul up a fast reload.

There is no reason you should have to accept a potential choke point like that at the loading/ejection port.

Besides that, I find that the extended or "hangover" base is aesthetically objectionable.

JMHO, of course.

I would go with the Leupold QRW Rings & Mounts. I have then on all my Model 70"s. It is easy to switch scopes from one rifle to another. You can remove the scope quickly if you need to use the iron sights. When you put the scope back on the rifle there is no need to re-zero. I take a spare scope with me that is sighted in for that rifle and should the 1st scope be damaged I can drop the backup scope on with no need to sight it in.

So all of you guys that have the Leu QR or QRW setups - can you get by with a set of medium rings for 42mm? I just don't want there to be an issue with the bolt/scope. I thought I read somewhere about this being an issue, but maybe not on a Mod 70. I will be doing what Larry suggested and always take an extra scope ready to go. Thanks...

I don't see the Bolt ever being an issue, just the front end of the scope not touching the barrel.I can only guess, but I think you will be ok with medium rings.

Tim, I have rifles with EAW, Talley, Warne, and Leupold mounts and rings. The Talley's are the best.

I have also used Talley products and have not found them to any better or worse then leupod. I am not familar with talley qwick release rings which is what I favor in the leupold brand. These make for an easy put on, take off. I have used the leupolds on my .300 mags, .375,.416 Rem Mag, and my .458 win mag with no ill effects. I would say not to mix mounts and rings, but use the same make for both rings and mounts. Also the Leupolds are about half the cost of Talleys.

I'm with Larry on this one. Leupold QRWs. I have them even on 500 MDM-50 B&M-and 510 Wells! Of course everything else too. I don't care much for the Leupold quick release which is the mounts shown on Tim's rifle. There is nothing quick about them, the ones I have seen are impossible to turn without a tool of some sort.

Mrlexma
I don't care for that much overhang either, but for ejection or extraction it makes no difference. Does not look so good however. So I agree.

Michael

I agree, the ones on Tim's Rifle are OK, but I use the QRW which are the Weaver style. These I can put on or off with my fingers.

quote:

I have a Nikon Monarch Gold 1.5x6x42 in a 30mm tube. Will it take high rings to work the bolt properly?

I tried that scope on my .450 Marlin. The scope could not handle the recoil. The P.O.I. kept shifting 4 to 5 inches at 50 yards. I bought an Eotech Holographic sight (512) and the rifle groups 1" at 100 yds with the same ammo; so I know it wasn't the gun or ammo.

I moved the Monarch scope to a 30/30, it seems OK there; 1&1/4" groups at 100 yds.

The jap scopes can't take the recoil.

The Eotechs are tested to 20,000g force; per military specs

I vote for Talleys but could live with the Leupolds. I would consider having a gunsmith drill out the base screws to 8/40. The scope you plan to use is heavy and the larger screws will anchor the system better. I have seen mount systems sheared off in the field and that is no fun at all! All my guns 375 and up are drilled to 8/40.

There's some good adcvice on this thread and speaking for myself, I don't like the Leupolds for appearance, but gotta admit they work very well.

Mark, at NECG gave me this tip: use some liquid electricians tape on the inside of the rings. Really "grabs" the scope tube, but does no damage

I have used those Leupold bases and ring on some hard kickers, 300 WBY, 340 WBY, several 375 H&H and several 458 Win Mag's, with no problems and good return to zero.

The 375 and the 458's were work guns and were shot quite a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by michael458:
Mrlexma
I don't care for that much overhang either, but for ejection or extraction it makes no difference. Does not look so good however. So I agree.

Michael

It's not extraction or ejection that I mentioned - or that worries me.

I don't like the prospect of having to maneuver one or more cartridges around the damned "overhang" when I'm trying to reload quickly and under pressure.

I would stick with the bases that you have. I would venture a guess that medium rings will work fine. The clearance issue that you will have is the bell of the scope and the rear sight. As long as the scope is on the short side or if you had the straight tube of a 1-5 Leupold or Redfield you will be good to go.

I have used that very same setup on my other Model 70 375 H&H and will tell you that ejection is not an issue and loading is actually easier with those bases than it is with a bare receiver. I will also say that mine always returned to absolute zero and the levers are definitely workable by hand. I can shoot groups at 100 yds, remove the scope and shoot the irons at 50 yards, replace the scope and cut my original holes at 100 yds. I think the QRW are a step down myself; going to a Ford from a Cadillac!

mrlexma

That's a lot of overhang, see your point, could be an issue?

airgun1

You must have worked and greased your levers up, I have seen two of these and had to use pliers to move the levers. Could never do it with fingers alone. As for the QRWs--I have a fleet of over 50 ford F350s and they always, always get the job done! Give me the fords!
Michael

quote:

You must have worked and greased your levers up, I have seen two of these and had to use pliers to move the levers. Could never do it with fingers alone.
Michael

I just don't understand what you are doing that you cannot secure and release the QR with your finger strength. They only need to turn from the horizontal to just past the vertical - perhaps 100-120 degrees to secure the scope. I think you might be trying to over tighten them, which will then cause problems in releasing them, although a sharp tap with the heel of my hand is the most I've ever had to use.

Lionhunter

A friend of mine had them on his gun. I have never owned any myself. Neither of us could turn them from H to V or V to H with fingers, hands, feet, toes, nor anything else. Pliers, yep! Sorry can't tell you more than that. I use only QRWs on everything. Mostly big bore from various 416s thru various 458s, thru various .500s, and up to 510 Wells. Never had a problem at all.

I don't care for the QRs personally, if yours works for you great. They didn't work for my friend and would not work for me.

Michael

Talley QR's

EAW or Talley. I had problems with those Leupold bases myself and wont use them again.

From my letter to Leupold...

"I purchased your 1.5 to 5 x 20 illuminated reticle scope for a Safari to Zimbabwe, Africa. Several of us went on the trip, some for leopard others for buffalo and since this was my first foray onto the Dark Continent I chose a plains game hunt. We all went with a variety of equipment, in my case I chose a Winchester M70 in 375 H&H a Leupold scope and quick release Leupold mounts. My equipment worked very well until we had occasion to pursue a wounded buffalo. It was prudent to use the express sites for such a task so I removed the scope. A big mistake as it turned out (especially since we did not locate the buffalo).

The following day I remounted the scope and it seemed as tight and secure as before and proceeded on a stalk of a beautiful Wildebeest. We got within shooting range (about 100 yards) and I took my shot… and missed the kill zone. The wounded Wildebeest took off running like a rocket and proceeded to disappear. This was very disturbing as I have worked very hard to select good equipment and to train well (just a couple of months ago I attended rifle training at Gunsite in Arizona to prepare for the safari) to make sure the shots I do take are accurate and have a low chance of lost animals. In any event we decided to check the accuracy of the rifle and found it was shooting several inches to the left and several inches low at 100 yards. The only change was removing and remounting the scope using the quick release mounts. "

michael458 - So, this wasn't yours and you didn't do the install nor read the instructions? I cannot discuss this further with you.

JohnHunt - Did you not try to remove and replace the scope at the range prior to departing for Africa? Why not? Then you'd know if it held zero. Did you check the mounting screws and ring screws after flying halfway around the world? That's part of what the range session in camp is all about. One loose screw will change the POI.

I have no Leupold stock, but I know this is an outstanding product that works 100% if properly installed and utilized. So do literally thousands of hunters who have used the QD system for many years.

I have seen supposedly experienced hunters go on safari with rifles/scopes that breakdown in the bush. In each case, when I investigated I found the problems were with the hunter and the way the equipment was utilized, not the product. Here's two:

1. Buys a used .416Rem w/scope combo. On safari he takes a number of trophies then takes a shot at a Hyena and the scope rings separate. Gun/scope is now useless. Examination shows the scope was mounted in ALUMINUM rings! Not acceptable on a high recoiling large bore rifle. He completes safari with my back-up rifle.

2. Buys a new Dakota rifle in .458Lott. Zeros scope and goes on safari. Takes his first check zero shot with a full magazine and the floor plate opens, spilling rounds on the ground. Seems he never shot it with the magazine loaded back home. I ductape the floor plate closed and he hunts a number of trophies. The ductape shows in all pictures.

Yes my equipment was tested and tested.

Leupold replaced the mounts with anything of my choice. They also fixed the erectors on my scope.

I put EAW mounts on and threw away the Leupolds.

I still have the scope but lust after an S&B.

lionhunter

They are just bases and rings! You will find no bigger supporter of Leupold products than myself! I own just shy of 50 Leupold scopes. Every rifle that I am shooting is set up with Leupold QRW bases, all scopes have QRW Rings. I have been using them for about 12 yrs now. Hardly a week goes by that I am not setting up a rifle, in fact this morning I am setting one up with Leupold QRWs. I shoot and do test work every week. Mostly big bores-90% of the time. I have an outside range out to 150 yds, I have a private indoor range 50 yds-fully set up with test equipment. I test on average 150-200 rounds a week-again mostly big bore. I test everything from feed and function, bullet terminal performance, test loads, everything. I am a veteran of well over 20 african safaris in 5 different countries, I have hunted many other areas of the world in addition. All of these with Leupold scopes and QRW rings and bases. In the last 18 months I have sent 13 Leupold scopes back for repairs from shooting on big bore rifles, and still I am loyal to Leupold 100%. For big bore rifles there is nothing that can compare to the 1.5X5 VXIII. But my rifles get shot a lot. Do not have the audacity to state you cannot discuss this with me further!

I have very little experience with these QR bases and rings, and don't need anymore. They are not for me. The levers are very small, hard to get "leverage" on. The ones I dealt with could not be turned by finger pressure at all. I might not have a pair of pliers in my pocket in the bush--most likely I will have something, but who knows? They are merely rings and bases--everyone has favorites, these are not mine, and if they work for you that is great, use them. They don't work for me so I use what works for me. Others like the Talley's--that is fine, they are well made and I am sure they work. I would probably try those, but the thing is I have much invested in the systems I use, they work, and I have no need to change. You don't have to change either, nor take offense to someone that does not care for the QRs and recommends to someone else another system that is not of your own liking. End of story.

Michael

Not wanting top hijack the thread but it appears the right people to ask are active on this one. I have heard that there have been more problems with the new VX III and higher end models than the new VX I & VX II and older Vari-X series. Does anybody also see this first hand?

Also to be clear, I manipulate the levers with my thumb and I do lube my Leupold QR rings and cams with RIG (rust inhibiting grease) and also use CLP (Breakfree) on the lever shafts as part of general rifle maintenance. Don't use CLP in the bore though as it is so slippery that it takes 10-15 rounds to shrink the groups back down; it has so much teflon in it that it gives the same effect as using moly coated bullets, that is it makes a good load shoot all over the place.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe: I don't like the Leupolds for appearance, but gotta admit they work very well.

+1 (I like the idea of liquid tape, might do that on the Lott)

I have them on a light 450 Marlin with 1000 rnds or so through it.

I also had them on a <9lb 416 Rem for about 500 rnds, neither has given me problems.

I had Talleys on the 416 at first, but they sat too high .25" IIRC higher than the Leupolds, thats why I changed. Talleys do in fact look lots better IMO

Two quick additions:

I use powdered rosin in the rings for scopes that slip. I currently have no slippers and am not using any rosin right now.

If the levers are hard to loosen, tighten both levers and loosen the ring cap screws on one of the rings. The rings probably cammed in further than when you originally installed them and the scope is binding them. I have never had to do this more than once, i.e. it is not a recurring problem, but is more of a break-in type situation. I have used the QR setups only on three model 70's; two 375's and one 30-06.

ETA: Ooops make that 4 model 70's, I forgot about my stainless classic 338!