Have opportunity to purchase one of these shotguns and it is New w/ box/paper, etc. 30" barrels, solid rib, deep engraving, split forearm, etc. Choke'ed IC and 1/4 Gun is not as "pretty" as the various Brownings, Berettas but does seem to be of high quality. Intended use to be Skeet and Sporting Clays. Anyone with exprience or opinions on this shotgun??
All feedback appreciated.

I have an older 201E Merkle. Built post WWII.
Great shotgun.
I don't know anything about the guns built after the wall came down. I'd guess they are good quality.

I bought the gun and liked it so much went back and bought it's little brother in 28 gauge. It's difficult to put a yr. of mfg. on these guns for apparently Merkel's records are spotty due to transition from Germ. Dem. Republic gov't to current status government wise. Would say these two were made almost together for S/N's only 10 numbers apart. Pleased with them and are well put together and my first experience with the 3 piece forend and makes for slim, functional forend.

Those made after WWII until the collapse of Eastern Germany had "Made in DDR/GDR?" (one or the other - fails me at the moment; I'm geting older .....) stamped on the barrels; if they were manufacturered after reunification the stamp is "Made in Germany".

You should be able to determine the date of manufacture.

Look for a 3 (January-September) or 4 digit (October-December) number above the Proof Mark on the underside of the barrels or the table.

It'll be the month and date of manufacture.

Examples:

292 = February 1992 (my 20 gauge)

293 = February 1993 (my 12 gauge)

another example (4 digit):

1201 = December 2001

Have fun with your Merkel O/U's s I've got 12 & 20 SxS's; nice shotguns.

Gerry,
Your information much appreciated and wil take down this eve. and see what I can determine.
Again, thanks. Yes, they do seem to be very well made and both of mine simply state Made in Germany.

Hey Pal, I'd be interested as well, so when you locate the numbers, let us know?

As an aside, the Dealer called me several months after I purchased the 12 gauge on a morning I was hurridly blasting out of the office on a business trip. He asked if I was interested in a 28 gauge & 410 set to match the other two (at a very good price too I might add). Of course weeks later after I'd returned from an extended business trip and finally remembered to call him back - they had been sold .....

Using your data as a guide I find that both the 12 gauge 201E and the 28 gauge 201E are stamped as 278038 for the 12 and 278043 for the 28 gauge. I orginially thought the two guns were 10 numbers apart but upon closer viewing w/ glass find they are only 5 numbers apart. If I am understanding correctly this would tell me that the guns were mfg. in Feb.'78?? This would make the guns 35 years old as of last month, but both are in as new condition w/ striking dark/streaked walnut stocks. The numbers are on both the left side of the reciever, barrels, and even the "iron" inside the forearm. Even the small screw heads showing inside the forearm are on "parade" and envraved as are the ones in the buttplate. There are screws on both sides of the receiver but the engraving is such that it is difficult to see them and their locking screws as well. Would mention that the 28 shows GSI above the "Made in Germany" but the 12 does not have that marking. I thought the unification of Germany did not take place until early 80's and if '78 is correct would think they would still be marked as GDR?? Only complaint I have w/ the two guns is that they are very, very stiff in opening, but when compared to the fit and finish, engraving, balance, I am very pleased with them. If I understand their choke marking system, both guns would be choked Lt.Modified and Improved Cylinder and that works for my purposes. These guns are not popular in my area and rarely see them at the gun club or in the field, but that is OK with me.

I believe you are seeing serial numbers. Take off barrels and look at the bottom barrel next to the lugs there should be a 3 or 4 digit number. My 201E with 20 and 28 gauge barrels has a 5 digit serial number 77xxx. There is a 4 digit number next to the lugs with the proof marks. Mine is marked 1270 for December 1970 the date of proof.
A mark of 170 would translate to a proof date of January 1970. The serial number is typically on the action, the barrels, and fore end iron as well. as other places.

Law-Pooch's got it; you're using the serial number.

http://www.phoenixinvestmentar...hives/proofmarks.pdf

Above is a list of Proof Marks.

Your Merkel should have the first Proof Mark listed for Suhl, that of Smokeless Nitro Proof. The manufacture date number; 3 or 4 digit should be directly above the Proof Mark.

OK, with barrels removed, looking at underside of barrels, seeing what appears to be two proof marks, there is a 10KH between the two marks. Only other stampings are for gauge/chamber length, and the S/N's. On one of the lugs there is a GM superposed w/ shield shape. I figured the 10KH was a pressure testing code??
I'll keep looking and thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

quote:

.....there is a 10KH between the two marks.

You've got it - it's a newer shotgun. They've started using a combination of numbers & letters.

10KH is: 10=October. "K" & "H" are the 8th & 11th numbers of the alphabet. Since they do not use "I" or "J" due to confusion with "1" this makes "K" the 9th letter of the alphabet meaning you've got a manufacture year of 1989.

10KH is October 1989.

Was beginning to think I was going to have to employ the "enigma" device to determine age of the guns. Very much appreciate the assistance on this matter. I attempt, attempt is definitely the right word, to shoot both Trap and Skeet with these guns and with weather improving plan on running a lot of shells through both of them this season. I do like the guns.

Good Luck with your Boomers; funny you should mention "Enigma" another story, from another life .....

You'll find the 1/4 (Improved Cylinder) & 3/4 (Improved Modified) chokes an outstanding compromise that covers alot of shooting.

Teutons are known for very tight chokes as their shotgun development was founded shooting alot of ground game (Hares) at extended ranges as opposed to the Brits, Spaniards & Italians who shot alot of arial targets (Birds). I use felt wad loads in my Merkels as opposed to cartridges with shot cups and found the felt shot loads deliver much better patterns. I know it's considered a sin to allow lead to scrub the bore of a shotgun in the good ole US of A but find out what your probably tightly choked bores prefer.

Lotsa Luck with your new Merkels.

O.K. - New Day, better information.

I just talked to my German Gumsmith Pal who was not available a coupla days ago.

According to him here's the Real Deal on Merkel numbering w/letters.

A=0
B=1
C=2
D=3
E=4
F=5
G=6
H=7
I=8
J=8
K=9

According to Florian the "I" & "J" are both used interchageably for the number 8.

Therefore, your Proof Date (because it always appears above the Proof Mark) is considered to be the manufacturing date.

10KH would be October 1997.

I'll file that away with the data I am gathering regarding Merkel shotguns. Somewhere on the web did obtain proof marks from about all nations producing firearms and I'll put these two sources together for reference. On the subject of Merkel, they are not that popular in my area and think I am the only one shooting them at the local trap/skeet club. Several K's and P guns, lots of Brownings, Berettas. Previous importer, distributor was GSI and they are gone and believe Sauer is bringing them in, if at all. I have owned Brownings in the past and they are a good gun, but for me tend to be a bit on the "glitter side" compared to the obvious labor and skill present with the Merkels.