I am looking for a Browning Superposed O/U in 20 gauge, the older style with the rounded grip. Anyone have advice on what to avoid or specifically look for on one of these older guns?

Check your PM's.

Salt wood, but that would be apparent by now. Fine guns. I could sell you a shooter, but nothing pristine. PM me if interested.

Get the long tang version. I prefer 28 inch barrels but they are tough to find. There must be 100 with 26.5 inches for every 28 inch. Get in the habit of cleaning the chamber immediately after you stop hunting for the day or use paper shells. Plastic shells cause rust in the chamber very quickly! I used English paper shells rather than struggle with the chamber issue all the time.

I have two and shoot both exclusively and love them. As for salt wood, one of them had it but was restocked and finished. A test for salt wood: remove the screws from the buttstock to test for corrosion. I also have one in 28 that will shoot dead with the 20"s.

I shoot a 1957 12 ga and never had a chamber issue with plastic shells...that's an interesting comment. Makes me wonder why one would and one wouldn't.

Back to the OP, LJS has a point about the long tang version. It will hold its relative value better. But beware; a really pristine 20 ga long tang is among the most desirable of Superposed and in the right condition a field grade can run many thousands of dollars. By comparison, my long tang 12ga in 80% condition would probably fetch $850 to $1000.

I think you are looking for the LTRK long tang round knob version produced from about 1953 to possibly 1966-7. I bought a new field grade Superposed 20 ga as my "only shotgun ever" after my first Vietnam tour. I've used it on everything from doves to deer (with slugs which it shot quite well). That includes hundreds of ducks back in the lead shot days, dozens of pheasants and a few geese - no turkeys though. I also used it for a few years of intensive skeet shooting.

Mine is the 26 1/2 inch barrel version choked IC/M and I think that choking is pretty hard to beat. I suspect if you find a 28" version it will be M/F. I have two friends with early 1960s 28' Superposeds who have both had their chokes opened to IC/M; they did that even knowing the modification reduces collector value. Pads added also reduce value which I didn't realize back in my skeet shooting days when I cut the stock and added a pad. Ideally look for one that still has the lever over to the right, as with lots of wear it migrates toward the left. That can be corrected by rehinging; I've had that done with my 20 and with a used 12 I bought some years back. Also watch for evidence of steel shot use. I saw what looked like a great deal that had noticable rings at the chokes.

If I had to go back to one shotgun it would be my original Superposed, with bismuth shot when used for waterfowl...

Good hunting,

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
I shoot a 1957 12 ga and never had a chamber issue with plastic shells...that's an interesting comment. Makes me wonder why one would and one wouldn't.

Back to the OP, LJS has a point about the long tang version. It will hold its relative value better. But beware; a really pristine 20 ga long tang is among the most desirable of Superposed and in the right condition a field grade can run many thousands of dollars. By comparison, my long tang 12ga in 80% condition would probably fetch $850 to $1000.

I have had that problem with mine when shooting skeet in the summer with hi humidity. I always swabbed out the chambers when done.

The plastic shells, due to the heat and pressure of firing, out gas formaldehyde and other corrosive gases. That is where the rust comes from. You will not get that with a paper tube hull. English shells are not magic. Federal paper tube hulls will not rust either.
A good way to deal with it is to keep a heavy polyethylene cup in a corner with a clean rag in the bottom. Use an aerosol can of Barricade or equivalent rust preventative (not WD-40) with a wand. Give each chamber a shot of the Barricade and stand the shotgun on its muzzle in the cup and prop it in the corner. You can do this with a skeet gun for years without a rusty chamber.

Art's has a few. Couple of 28 inch models even.
Stumbled across my dream gun the other day at Cabelas.
1951 (my birth year), 28" barrels, solid rib and choked
IC/M.

quote:

Originally posted by SR4759:
The plastic shells, due to the heat and pressure of firing, out gas formaldehyde and other corrosive gases. That is where the rust comes from. You will not get that with a paper tube hull. English shells are not magic. Federal paper tube hulls will not rust either.
A good way to deal with it is to keep a heavy polyethylene cup in a corner with a clean rag in the bottom. Use an aerosol can of Barricade or equivalent rust preventative (not WD-40) with a wand. Give each chamber a shot of the Barricade and stand the shotgun on its muzzle in the cup and prop it in the corner. You can do this with a skeet gun for years without a rusty chamber.

Forgot to mention. I heard it is the wax on the paper shells that help with the rusting, the plastics are too dry.

I own many shotguns and can shoot most of them well. The Superposed just seems to strike a chord w/ me. I'm not sure if it is Mr. Browning's mystic or my upbringing, but there is no denying it. The Superposed just 'feels' right. I have a 12 and 20 and will get a 28 in the near future. If you buy 'right', you will have an investment for yourself or your future generations and one damn fine scattergun.